Cornwall’s South Coast
One of the great things about our lifestyle choice is the time-freedom that it gives us. So, when my best friend asked if we wanted to join her and her family for a week away in October half term, there was no checking of holiday allowance, or begging the boss to get the time off, we simply said we’ve love to go.
We left Zagan the motorhome in storage and took the car for a week exploring Cornwall’s south coast with Sue and Jon and their kids Joseph and Annabelle. We all shared a cottage in the little village of St Ewe, a short drive from several beaches and the seaside town of Mevagissy.
We saw a smattering of motorhomes as we drove around, but visiting in late October meant most of the campsites were closed. Nearly every car park we went to had a ‘no overnighting’ sign of some description, which I can understand in the summer, but surely not in the winter too? So while we do fancy exploring the area another time in our motorhome, it doesn’t seem very motorhome friendly. We now know that we’d need to stick to the main roads (some of the ones we drove down were very, very narrow with high stone walls either side) and do some advanced research and planning for overnight stops.
Our week in the cottage flew by in a blur of fun, digging in the sand on many beaches and crabbing in the harbours at high tide. Sadly for the kids there was very little in the way of Halloween action in the village, except for the local pub which went all out on decorations. Pumpkin carving and spooky cake making hopefully helped fill the ‘trick or treating’ gap.
As the rest of the gang headed to the Eden Project for the day, Jay and I set off to explore Land’s End on our own. I thought it would be nearby, but it was still a good hour and a half away. As I’d never been there before, we made the pilgrimage passing the first and last pub in England, and popping into the first and last gift shop. I had expected a full on tourist trap like these things generally are, but it actually turned out to be better than I thought it would be – this could be because it was now November, so nearly everything was shut.
Having learned in Nordkapp at the top of Norway how expensive it can be to park at ‘the end’ of a country, we parked in a lay-by a couple of miles away and walked to Land’s End. A cafe and gift shop were about the only things open which suited us just fine. We sat on the edge of England looking for dolphins and may have seen a couple (either that or they were very big, very fast jumping fish). Saying goodbye to the view across to the Isles of Scilly we enjoyed a walk along the north Cornwall coastal path back to the car.
From there we headed a few miles along the south coast to Porthcurno and the Minack (‘rocky place’ in Cornish) Theatre which we knew very little about. It’s perched on the cliffs with the seats looking out over the stage to the sea and reminded me of the Greko/Roman Theatre we visited in Taormina, Sicily. As we walked around the small visitors centre, it soon became clear that the theatre was much more like the Ideal Palace in Hauterives, France, as it too had been envisaged and built by one inspiring person.
Rowena Cade planned, built and financed this amazing place in her back garden. For the first performance in 1932 the stage was a flat bit of grass and lighting was provided by car batteries and headlights. Today it holds productions throughout the summer months as well as theatre skills workshops.
At the end of the week, our friends headed back home while we headed over to the Eden Project to take part in a Park Run. Only two weeks after a Park Run in Paris, we were now treated to what must be one of the best Park Runs in the UK. The timed 5km (3 miles) run (or walk) takes you around the Eden Project grounds a couple of times, surrounded by tropical plants. I knew there was no point in going for a personal best time as there was just too much to see – I even took the time to stop for a couple of cheeky selfies! After the run you are free to stay and look around the place for the rest of the day, including the Biomes (domes).
We were joined for the Park Run by Phil, fellow running motorhomer, who we ran the Marrakech Half Marathon with back in 2017. After a post-run breakfast of a bacon cob, we wandered around the Biomes for a couple of hours. The cooler Biome is Mediterranean and has palm trees, grape vines and numerous vegetables growing in it, while the warmer Tropical Biome is bursting with exotic plants and trees and some cute little birds called Roul Rouls. It was only while walking around here that I realised I had never stopped to think what a pineapple plant looks like, where coffee and cashew nuts come from or what part of the plant in a paddy field contains the rice. The whole place was a massive, but entertaining education.
As the place had only just opened for the day, it was virtually empty so we took full advantage of here not being a queue and climbed up to the viewing platform at the top of the tropical Biome.
We spent the next few days visiting Phil and Jules in their home town of Fowey. Staying in the Seaview apartment which has a huge bay window looking out over the Fowey estuary, we spent many hours watching the weather roll in and out and the ferry rock it’s way over to Polruan on the opposite shore. I could have happily stayed there forever.
Phil and Jules introduced us to several of their friends as we helped launch a gig (Cornish 6 oared rowing boat) so Jules could do some rowing training – in very choppy waters. We also joined some members of the Fowey Accidental Running Team (FARTs) on a 10k run to The Gribben, a lighthouse that appears in a lot of Jules’ artwork.
We loved our time in Cornwall and know that we only just scratched the surface of all that there is to see and do in this beautiful corner of Britain. We’ll be sure to return, even if only to get there at the right tide time to go over to St Micheal’s Mount, rather than just looking at it from the shore!
Ju x
Many thanks for latest blog. Interesting to note that Cornwall doesn’t appear to be ‘van friendly’! Spent a fair amount of time in Devon although only occasionally in a motorhome! You certainly have to be selective in choosing where you go after the end of October and, due to demand exceeding supply, a lot of sites in our experience, quickly get fully booked. Given this, planning to head to Nottinghamshire and Lincolnshire next week!!
The guys at willow car and coach park, mevagissey allow campervans/motorhomes to overnight for a fee. Literally a short walk to the harbour and a short drunken stagger back. The car park guys have a brilliant sense of humour and like to have a little Cornish banter.
Good info Vaughan, thanks. We saw a van in there a couple of nights but we didn’t park in there as it was more expensive than some of the other car parks (where we saw the no overnight restriction signs). Cheers, Jay
We stayed in Fowey on a CL site just up the road in September.
Great place for grub, Cornish cream teas in little café and huge pasties. I wondered why people waited for the bus in the carpark and on our return I knew, boy was it steep, not fit like you both!
We are still planning to get back to France next year, just Brexit to overcome, main issue the pet passport scheme.
Richard
Hi Jason and Julie, We’ve stayed down in Devon and Cornwall in our Motorhome quite a bit, and although there aren’t many free spots there are quite a few ACSI sites some of which are very near the coastal path.
Great blog as usual. Oh how I wish the UK was more m/h friendly. We have just been up around the Manchester area and thought we could try and get a park during the day. I emailed the tourist office and rang the park and ride office. Neither were helpful and the guy at the P&R thought I was from outer space!
We did find a 2 hour place in the Ancoats area but as we took up 2 spaces were lucky not to get a fine. Great area though with 2 fab bakeries and lots of cool cafes and had a walk around the canals.
I will write to the parking people in and suggest they should have an area like the one in Turin which is right beside the tramline. I think you stayed there?
After all that does anyone know where you can park during the day in Manchester please?
If you fancy a trip to Jersey then let me know, i have a one bed room apartment that i would happily give to you guys free on charge just so that i could meet you two and to have a cuppa and to hear some of your amazing stories as i would be keen to live the life of what you both do in the future.
Thanks Bruce – very generous mate – we’ll give you a shout if we head your way! Happy travels fella, Jay
We are New Zealanders who have just arrived for a 12 month journey around the UK/Europe in our camper. We are currently parked with family in Cornwall (Penzance). We had read that the UK is not really set up for “freedom” camping. This is a shame as your country is very beautiful and we are responsible and careful with our travel habits but are struggling to find free or low cost sites. If anyone has any tips or suggestions, we are very keen to hear them.
Love your posts and have read lots of really helpful tips over the pasta months while preparing to come here.
Hi Liz. We’ve not done much wild camping in the UK, but we found Scotland much easier when we did. There’s a good article about the legality of it all with helpful tips here: https://www.practicalmotorhome.com/advice/44384-how-to-go-wild-camping. The Brit Stops scheme mentioned in the article is great, and there’s a (paid) database of UK wild camping spots here: https://www.wildcamping.co.uk. Good luck, happy travels, Jay
Thanks for this info.
You’re welcome Liz. 😀 Jay
Hi just thought I’d mention s website we use regularly for the UK have stayed in quite a few of the locations mentioned definitely worth checking out. https://www.ukmotorhomes.net/uk-stopovers/motorhome-stopover-listing