Topping Out, North Cape (Nordkapp), Norway
Zagan the motorhome’s as far north on our planet as he’s ever going to get. We’ve topped out on our journey, and are parked in the famously expensive car park at the North Cape (Nordkapp) on Magerøya Island in Norway (N71.16863, E25.78141). It was named the ‘North Cape’, by the way, by an Englishman who sailed past 500-odd years back on an ill-fated voyage to find the north-east passage to China.
Motorhome parking at the North Cape, Nordkapp
How does it feel to be here? Pure relief. We feel relieved to have finally landed up here, having started heading north in Split, Croatia quite a while ago! It’s also a fun place to be, as people from everywhere arrive in motorhomes, cars, coaches, push bikes, motorbikes, mopeds, on roller blades, sporting wheeled Nordic skis or on foot, lugging huge waterproof backpacks.
We made it. the North Cape in the Norwegian Arctic. Yeah baby!
It costs 260 NOK (about £25) per person for the first 24 hours, plus another 100 NOK if you want to stay a second day. The 7km tunnel onto the island we’re sat on used to add to the cost, but has now been paid off, so is free. So about £2 per hour for us, which won’t bust the bank.
Nordkapp – almost everyone in the world is below us (or above us, depending which way you look at it!)
We arrived yesterday, the van being buffeted about on the road as we pointed his nose into the sea fog and wound our way over the Arctic landscape. Rain lashed in sideways as we edged our way past oncoming motorhomes on the narrow road north. North, that word’s played on our lips for months – must get north! Magnificent reindeer halted us for a few moments as they took control of the road before bounding off onto the rocks alongside us. This road’s incredibly kept open in winter, even as the temperature dips to -40°C; timed convoys are set up so you can follow the snow plough in.
As Ju mentioned in the previous post, Nordkapp isn’t the most northerly point of Norway. Even if you ignore the fact it’s on an island, another bit of the same island protrudes another mile north. Svalbard, part of Norway, is also another 500 miles closer to the North Pole than we are. Only thing is, you can drive straight to this notherly point, which makes it a damn sight easier to get to! Adam and Sophie from Europe by Camper hiked further north to Knivskjelodden on their year motorhome tour, but it wasn’t for us. For one thing our aged pooch wouldn’t make it, and the wind was making standing upright a fun task!
Arriving at Nordkapp. Get your wallet out!
Richard and Jenny – fun-loving folks who’ve topped out in the motorhome the same day as us
Richard and Jenny were already here when we arrived, the only other British motorhome of the 50-odd vans which stayed the night. After a catch-up and a van-shuffle to try and get shelter from a small building, we ambled over to the visitor’s centre for a look-see. Nordkapp, as you might have guessed, is well geared up for mass tourism, but there were few folks knocking about, at least until a cruise ship sent in 17 coaches at 10.30pm! Much of the centre’s underground, and provides for a good couple of hours entertainment. A cinema shows life at the Cape during the dark winter, quite a moving show for me as the snowplough swept at speed while green curtains of the Northern Lights played out above. The Cave of Lights was a weird sensory experience, singers chanting as lights and half-formed imagery played out in the dim underground room.
The Nordkapp plateau before the 1956 road was built
By far the best part entertainment for me was people watching. A crew of Spanish bikers who’d taken a month to get here from the Canary Islands, and will take a month to get back, were buzzing with excitement. People laughed and joked as the wind hammered everyone trying to stand at the globe monument. We’d stare at the hardy folks arriving soaked on push bikes, head down and struggling the last few meters before they could stash their bike in the foyer and get a hot drink.
Richard and Jenny had us round to their place for the evening. We tucked into the lush reindeer steak we’d bought in Finland (a rich smoky bacon flavour), potato dauphinoise, carrots, a couple of bottles of fizz and red wine. I sat there thinking ‘this motorhome life’s not half bad!’, especially as we’d spotted one of the bikers had pitched his tent in the lee of the visitor’s centre, weighing it down with heavy rocks.
As the Earth rotates on an angle to the sun, there is no night up here until the end of July. Nordkapp’s said to be a fine place to see the midnight sun, never setting as it simply bounces back up before hitting the huge expanse of ocean. Sadly the mist and cloud meant no show for us last night, and although today’s been born beautifully clear, the forecast’s for the cloud to return at 6pm. We’ve made the most of the morning’s cliff-top view nevertheless, even being treated to the sight of whales blowing as they made their way West in the Barents Sea hundreds of meters below us.
Midnight at Nordkapp
(you might want to turn the volume down a the start as it was very windy)
What next for Team Zagan? South! We’re on our way home. In previous tours there’s been a tinge of sadness at these turnaround points, but not this time. For one, we’ve the whole of Norway ahead of us. For another we both quite fancy some fish ‘n’ chips and finally we’ve set ourselves up so we can simply set off again as we want to. Morocco is already lined up for next winter. Wow. I can hardly take in the life we have.
Comedy condoms at the North Cape visitor’s centre
The world’s most northern bacon and egg sarnies, probably
Cheers, Jay
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“…finally we’ve set ourselves up so we can simply set off again as we want to.” I have today just joined you among the thin ranks of the UK financially independent. Your posts are an inspiration for what I have to look forward to. Thanks
Awesome news, huge congratulations, fun times ahead! Cheers, Jay
Wow the weather looks very much like last week ere in Bolton..Up North,,,but slightly less north than yo 2…one has to make an effort with the local Dialect (Had to google how to spell that as I wrote dalek and that would have been silly)
Note: This blog is better enhanced when listening to :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baSUO3zjneA
Wow, what a journey! I’ve just found your site via Twitter. We have a 2004 Elddis Autoquest 200. Our most adventurous trip was to Italy, so we’re light years behind you, I’m afraid. We’re going to follow your travels on here now, hoping some of your daring rubs off on us. Safe travelling!
Hi guys, ahhh, if you’re daring enough to drive in Italy, you’re daring enough for most anywhere! :-) cheers, fun travels, Jay
Fantastic 😁
Enjoy the beautiful Norway! Maybe see you on Morocco next winter! Happy driving for you :), greetings from SUNNY Helsinki finally!
Congratulations on making Nordkapp. Sarah and I have now both handed in our resignations, partly inspired by you. Greece next winter and possibly Nordkapp next summer. Can’t wait.
Go go go! Greece and Norway, pure joy awaits folks.
Congratulations and enjoy!
Fantastic! You are about 4 weeks behind us. We were incredibly lucky to get the midnight sun at Nordkapp. We arrived back in the UK last Thursday. Reading your blog brought it all back, particularly the Scary Tunnels. Sure you will enjoy Fjiord country and the drive up the Trollvegen and on to Geranger fjiord. Try the trip up to Dalsnibba if you can. The view down to Geranger is spectacular if the cloud lifts! enjoy the rest of zNorway.