On the Route Home, Nonancourt
Zagan the motorhome is squeezed into one of the six small, but perfectly formed and placed, motorhome parking spaces at the aire in Nonancourt (N48.77244, E1.19240), on the bottom edge of Haute Normandie. The aire is situated in the grounds of the maire’s office (the mayor), a grand old building. We’re tucked in behind a small maintenance building surrounded by manicured gardens and huge trees, leading down to the River Avre.
Yes there are only six spaces, but this place is very popular!
After a fitful night’s sleep for both of us (we really need to get braver on free camping again), we woke in the car park for Chateau Gaillard to find ourselves surrounded by fog. Even if the local youfs had paid a visit last night, I’m not sure they would have seen us. Not fancying driving up the hill out of there with such limited visibility, we chilled out with late breakfast and a brew. As the fog began to lift I wandered out for a final view of the chateau, to be treated to it emerging from the clouds like something from a film.
With satnav getting increasingly angry at us for ignoring her (she wanted us to go down the hill from the car park which only cars are allowed to do), we made our way south west to pick up N154, a lovely free dual carriageway. We’d looked at several aires on our databases, and decided that we’d go to Nonancourt because it wasn’t that far away, and the aire is virtually in the non-touristy town centre. Instead of paying to stay in an aire in a bigger town, we planned to go out for a meal with the money we’d saved.
After parking up in our choice of four empty spaces, we headed out for a stroll around the town and to eyeball the four restaurants listed on the information board in the aire. Two of the four had lunchtime set menus, and one of those two had a queue of people going in as the doors opened at noon.
Some lovely old buildings in the town, which has a 3.5t limit on the main road through – no wonder the tourist office is starting to lean!
We casually wandered around a bit longer and arrived to find the lunch rush in full flow. Have we reserved? asked the busy waitress, err no, as we’d figured the place would be empty on a Thursday afternoon. With a bit of a French ‘humpf’ she told us to follow her and sat plonked the chalkboard menu down on the only free table left in the place. We were in.
Obligatory food photo
Everyone was eating the three course set menu and for €14 each, not including drinks, it seemed like a good deal to us. We scratched our heads trying to work out what each option was, but once we knew vaguely what we were getting – some sort of chicken fish, some sort of fish dish and certainly not pigs tongue – we coupled it with a carafe of tap water and enjoyed the show. The maître d’ wandered around regally taking orders and making sure everyone was happy, while the two waitresses rushed about serving up simple but delicious dishes.
After a tummy full we headed back to Zagan to find we had neighbours and they were both Brits. We chatted with Jill and Jeff from Hampshire who were on their way home after three months in Spain, Penny and Geoff from Torquay and were surprised to find out that Baz and his pooch Buster who were parked on the other side of us are also from Nottinghamshire, about 10 miles from where we live back home. Baz was also on his way back to the ferry after a winter in the sun, in fact so was everyone else who we met. Nonancourt is well and truely on the map as a stopping point for the journey home.
After an afternoon of chatting, chilling out and Jay giving his legs a stretch on a run, we made the most of the sunshine and went for an early evening walk. This time we wandered over a bridge across the river Avre and found ourselves in another town, and another department (Eure-et-Loir) and another region (Centre), all that from only bridge just a few metres wide.
Not really much difference between Centre and Haute Normandie that we could tell here
Then I spotted it, a small unassuming sign hanging above a doorway – laverie! It closed at 7pm, so the decision was made, we stay another day. This morning after a slow jog around the place, a great sport for sightseeing, and a quick shower (always quick in a motorhome) the growing laundry sack was slung onto Jay’s back and off we went. A few hours later – all the machines were busy, then laundry was left in them and not collected which lead to much tutting from the other ladies and kept me entertained – we have clean clothes. If you haven’t visited a launderette in France, I filmed a ‘how to’ guide a few years back which may take some of the mystery out of it for you.
Just around the corner is the laundry, I would have been skipping if I knew when this was taken
We’ve decided that we really like Nonancourt. It’s nothing special and doesn’t get any stars in my Michelin Tourist Atlas
, but has some pretty buildings (we’d call them Tudor, but no idea what they would be here) a well placed aire and a good feel about it. I think we’ll certainly be back next time we passing – which like everyone else may be on our way home.
Ju x
Ps. If you’re in France at the moment there’s another bank holiday on Tuesday 8th May for a very understandable reason.
Oh, these villages in France…. real gems!
Heading south, there is a really lovely aire, just south of Orleans at Lamotte-Beuvron. It is beside a disused, but beautifully kept canal basin, with walks/runs alongside the canal. Services, no leccy, but free. Toilets which lock you in, so personally I avoid them!! Wherever you end up on the 8th, there is a likelihood of aperos at the mairie!! ie drinks and nibbles after the 10 minute session at the local memorial.
Thanks Lorraine. We’re on a slightly different trajectory, but all suggestions appreciated! Jay
In Jersey we have an additional bank holiday on the 9th May when Jersey was liberated from German occupation. I am guessing a day after Northern France.
Lovely post, we come across plaques like that all over France, makes you grateful for the channel and those Spitfires and Hurricanes.
We stayed here almost exactly two years ago at the start of our first van trip in France. We were awoken by an enthusiastic cuckoo in the morning. It was lovely. One of the pleasures of France is aiming for an aire on the map and finding it is located in a beautiful historic town that is simply a working town and not a tourist trap. There are so many of them. And they let you stay for free! Happy travels. Robina
This our favourite area of France, we always go that way at least once a year, can be a bit wet. We are off next week for 4 weeks to Provence, apart from the sun not a touch on Normandy for buildings etc.
Nice Aires in Cormeilles and nice outdoor eating.
Hi all, the people on your blog all sound like seasoned travellers. We are off on the 13/5 and are very anxious. we hope to meet people who can help and give us confidence like the ones who write on your blog. Wish us luck. Thank you Ju and Jay
Hi guys – I suspect there’s a range of folks who read this and blogs like it, but maybe the more well-travelled ones comment more, that’s all. Being nervous is normal, if I’m anything to go by. Once you actually hit the road, you’ll quickly meet tonnes of folks who’ll be more than willing to help you – it’s that kind of life. Only a few days now, hold tight, keep going! Cheers, Jay
Thanks we will keep in touch and let you know.
Hi all, love to catch up with your travel blog. We have nearly been away ourselves now for 4 weeks on our first motorhome adventure with Margot the Carthago.Previously enjoyed waterways travel by boat. We are exploring the east side of France just left the Alsace wine route lovely villages to visit. We are having a mixture of free places and paid sites. The roads are so much better over here less traffic and few potholes so a real pleasure. Safe travels everyone. Definitely recommend to make to leap. Jacqui & Ian
Hi everyone, going back to an earlier blog but, not sure if you know, if you go onto the Lidl website you can download all their stores Europe wide onto either your Garmin or Tom Tom, just upload the POI’s, then download onto your Sat Nav happy days. Currently in “Ned the Van” in Gruissan, Nr Perpignan in an Aire next to the marina with limited facilities for the princely sum of €9 per night. Lovely stopover with restaurants and bars all around the marina, very picturesque.Were on our way back to home in Teesdale, after having spent six weeks in France, Spain, Portugal and Andorra. Stay safe everyone
Hi-I am new to reading your blog but am finding it facinating. You make mention of “youfs” a couple of times and I am wondering how nervous I need to be. Are they just noisy or do they cause more of a nuisance than that? Please can you elaborete?
Many Thanks Karen.
Almost always just noise nuisance, and nothing to be nervousness of, but when you’re alone somewhere unfamiliar it can make you a bit edgy! Cheers, Jay
I love the picture of the leaning Tourist Office!