Blue Skies in a Little Venice, Bonneval
Zagan the motorhome’s backed up to the high stone wall of the Henri Ey Psychiatric Hospital, which is in the grounds of a grand old chateau. Our visit has nothing to do with the hospital though; it’s just where the town of Bonneval has chosen to place their motorhome aire, and a wonderful little place it is too N48.17983, E1.38720.
The free motorhome aire at Bonneval. We’re tucked back towards the wall to avoid the tree scraping on the roof above where we sleep if the wind picks up.
We’ve been in France almost two weeks now, and have managed to plough our way south of Chartres, a journey we could have realistically made in a couple of days. Why is that, I wonder?
I’ve been coming to France since my teens, and can vividly recall touring the D Day Normandy landing beaches with long-suffering teachers (ignoring the rest of this paragraph, the trip and exposure to evidence of monumental suffering had a long-lasting impact on me). Looking after us lot must have driven our chaperones to drink. In one supermarket one of us worked out we could place a bottle in a recycling machine, get a ticket granting a discount at the till, but grab the bottle back before the machine ate it, popping it back in for another ticket. Et, voila! A million tickets and much free (stolen) food and drink was procured. Another time someone sussed we could buy fireworks in this odd, lawless country, resulting in us all trying to out-do a local organised firework display and much angry shouting from our embarrassed stewards. Since then I must have been into and across the country a dozen or more times.
Normally this would push me to be through it, to more exciting venues, as quickly as I can. But not this time. We’re on a huge go-slow, and are loving it. Perhaps because the pressure is off? The need to get as far as possible to see countries unknown: we’ve seen most of ’em, in Europe at least. The weather? We’ve pure blue skies here at the moment, and the outside thermometer’s showing 30°C in the shade:it’s easily hot enough. Being on a migration route’s bringing us into contact with plenty of Brits to chat with, and when there are none around, Charlie draws in friendly French folks to talk with. My French skills are pretty poor, but they put up with me and we can usually find some common words. I’ve had a few chats with folks about the conditions which cause him to slowly stumble about the place; a few of whom have Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, so know what I’m talking about.
Before we set off I was concerned my attempt to get back into running would slow us down and annoy Ju, but it hasn’t proved that way. Up at Nonancourt I got up at 7am, got ready, ran a half marathon and was back at the van for 9:30am, a time I’d normally be dragging myself from bed at home. The early(ish) runs are good for missing the heat, reducing the number of water-using showers I need, and give me a new view on the towns we pass through as they wake up each day. So no, the running isn’t stopping us moving, we’re just relaxed and enjoying a slow pace of life.
Bonneval has a sign where you turn into it from the main road: Little Venice. Hah! I can’t help but cynically scoff at these attempted associations these days: ‘Little Venice’ is one of the more common ones, we’ve been to another Little Venice in Portugal, and Little Switzerland in Germany too, and there must be more but I forget. The places are nothing like their tenuously-associated namesakes, but are invariably very nice in their own right.
Bonneval – lovely, and doesn’t need to pretend it’s anything other than what it is.
We’ve been in the aire here for a couple of days, just a few meters from the tamed river which rings the town. The boulangerie busily supplies baguettes first thing in the quiet streets. After lunch, electric boats silently carry families alongside the grassed walkways above. Mallards act out flamboyant Shakespearean dramas. Boules players appear, complete with magnets on strings and cleaning cloths, crouching and flinging metal balls in exact trajectories. Cafés serve up Trappist beer, Kronenbourg and Orangina. A horse and cart clip-clops around, the driver sat chatting and gesticulating to his passengers in the back while the horse leads the way. Later on the fast food joint opens up, complete with smiling Turks and photos of the Bosphorus at Istanbul. At night the car park empties and silence descends over us and our fellow collection of camping cars and we all get a great night’s kip. C’mon, what’s not to like?
The map is out though, of course. Alongside the park4night app on our phones, we’re using it to plot a route towards Tours and then back across the D976 in the direction of Moulins. These roads sport tons of well-reviewed aires and France Passion sites. Being away from the coast and tourist attractions, many of them are free so we’ve more to spend on bread, Belgian beer and kebabs. One goat farm we’ve spotted accepts motorhomes and, apparently, demonstrates how to make les fromages de chèvre. I’ve added it as a favourite to my phone.
Our Bonneval restaurant of choice
OK, its slowly cooling off now, so time to go cook up some meatballs for tea folks. Happy bank holiday weekend back home!
Great idea: fishing spot reserved for the wheelchair-bound. Actually getting around town in a wheelchair though: impossible.
Cheers, Jay
No doors this time…..
Lol.
Arrgghhhh!!! Forgot Door of the Day!!! Next time. Or maybe Window of the Week?
France really is the motorhome capital of the world and we love it. But just now we have crossed the IJsslemeer Dyke in the Netherlands and are on a Nordkapp trip inspired by you guys. Keep up the blogs.
Thanks John, happy travels in Scandinavia! Cheers, Jay
Oh, on the slow lane, that’s news! Well done. And congrats with the running! Wish I had the same courage…
Getting close to the start of our Scandi trip (inspired by you and some others). As a matter of fact we have been checking packing lists for hours… There’s no end to it. I am afraid we will have to upgrade our van before we leave ;-))
Departure day for us today – yippee. 8 weeks France, Italy, Corsica. Night boat this evening out of Portsmouth, lunch tomorrow in Valery Sue Somme with friends. So excited !
Hi Jason & Julie we met at Canterbury last year. You are at our favourite aire which we came across on our first trip over 3 years ago. Now we always try and start or end our trips there. If the market is on today buy a cooked chicken they are the best we’ve ever tasted. We also love sitting by the water relaxing and people watching. Have a great trip from Steve (orig from Arnold/calverton) and Sue
Hi Guys. Great to hear from you again. Thanks for the tip. We had a tasty chicken and spuds along with a good helping of ‘sauce’ all for €7. Lunch and dinner today sorted with enough left over for sarnies tomorrow! Hope you have some more adventures planned. Ju x
Congrats to you both…you’ve slipped into my idea of a perfect Motorhome trip. I like to spend a few days getting to know a place, rather than simply pass through.
I have about 6 weeks to lose a stone before we head down through Dijon to the cycling Mecca of Bourg d’Oisins, near Grenoble. If I don’t lose the weight then it will be a miserable climb up Alpe D’Huez for sure.
Counting the days now.
Lee at Go Humberto!
Go for it Lee, uphill seems a lot easier when you’re not having to carry a bagload of extra weight! Cheers, Jay
Guys,
This looks like a great trip. We were fortunate enough to take 8 months off in 2016/2017 and hit SE Asia, Oz, NZ and S America. We’ve been getting the itch recently and have started ‘more than drink talk’ planning for a European adventure in 2019/20 and your website is definitely inspiring. Keep on having fun!
Thanks Mark, lots to see in Europe, and a motorhome isn’t a bad way to see it all! Cheers, Jay
A perfect trip, no rush! can’t wait until we can do the same in a few years time!
Parked up in Bonneval for the night having spent the day in Chartres. It is a lovely little place, thanks for the tip.
Fantastic, glad you’re enjoying it Gillian! Jay