Fishing around Senja Island, Norway
Zagan the motorhome could get quite used to this lifestyle: drive a little way, park up and relax taking in the most amazing views. We’re getting used to it, which is why it’s taking us so long to get across the top of Norway. We’ve hopped over to the island of Senja, which our Lonely Planet Norway guidebook tells us ‘rivals Lofoten for natural beauty yet attracts a fraction of its visitors’. After the run up to Nordkapp and back where every third vehicle was a motorhome, we thought we’d try to nip off the main drag for a while. There are still quite a few motorhomes kicking around here, most homes have one parked up outside alongside with a skidoo and quadbike, but it is already feeling a bit less busy.
It does get cold here though
It was very hard to leave our beach side parking on Hillerøy. We tore ourselves away around noon, saying farewell to Miles and Poppy who were heading to Tromsø, no doubt we’ll see them further along the coast at some point. We found a quiet parking and chilled out for a couple of hours. Charlie had a play on the beach and we ate a spot of lunch, before heading over to the ferry port. We arrived just as the ferry was pulling in and they managed to squeeze the entire queue into the boat – I have no idea how, some sort of ferry magic.
It amazes me that they don’t ground out
On the ferry, Senja in the background
On this ferry you board, then walk up to the lounge area to pay. You’re given a card that you hand in as you disembark, so while it is sort of an honesty system there is a check to make sure you have paid something. We had a laugh with the ticket collector who kept asking if we had a bike rack to take us over 6 metres long (as he couldn’t see the van). We said we knew how expensive bike racks can be in Norway, without one Zagan is under 6m (ish!) so the ferry was 259 NOK, with one it would have been 621 NOK.
Puffins flying across in front of ferry
On deck we watched formation puffins play chicken with the ferry and eyed up a perfect kipping spot as we pulled into Botnhamn on the edge of the port. Disembarking we made a sharp turn and parked while everyone else raced off. Just as we settled in a chap wandered over and told us it was 120 NOK to stop the night, needless to say we packed up pretty quickly and were soon heading for the small fishing village of Husøy.
Most of the island is single track with passing points marked with an M – doesn’t help when people park in them!
Single track roads and narrow tunnels had me very pleased that Jay was driving today, as we climbed over a pass and were greeted with the surreal sight of Husøy sitting on an island in the middle of the fjord, surrounded by jagged teeth mountains. We knew it was 100NOK (including electricity and services) to stop the night, but it was worth it for the views alone (N69.54502, E17.67007). We wandered all around the village before Jay headed off and caught us a couple of fish for tea. Not long back the village was only accessibly by boat, but a causeway’s been built so we could easily get to the island.
Husoy fishing village has the most amazing setting
Our view for the night, not bad for €10
Charlie and Jay take in the views
More Oyster Catchers!
That’s dinner sorted
This morning the clouds had descended and the razor toothed peaks were hidden. Jay caught a couple more fish and after watching a Youtube video on the free WiFi he filleted them, yes they were that big! Back on the road the clouds hid most of the views but what we could see was still beautiful. We stopped at the supermarket for some bread and milk, but as the loaves were £4 we just got milk.
The island is very popular with cyclists, glad we didn’t have to overtake these guys
Amazing views at every turn even when cloudy
More stunning vistas and narrow road and tunnels brought us to another isolated fishing village, Mefjordvaer. We parked up for free at the edge of the port and went for a wander (N69.52098, E17.43888). There’s a pub/restaurant here, and it was pumping out some lovely chip smells (it’s been ages since we had chips) but as there was no menu on the outside to suss out prices, and we have a fridge full of fish, we didn’t venture in. We’ll save our first meal out in Norway for another time.
Mefjordvaer
Looking across the fjord
Instead Jay went fishing while Charlie and I sat in the warmth of Zagan watching the clouds slowly disappear and reveal the mountains surrounding us. Seagulls let out a barrage of squawks every time one of the many birds of prey fly over and a few plucky ones had a go at the massive bulk of feathers, so we have our own little alarm to grab the camera.
Our free kipping spot for tonight
Even Zagan’s widescreen windscreen is struggling to take in these views
This has to be one of the biggest birds we have seen on our travels, and he flew right along side us.
Any idea what it is?
No apology for the number of photos, Norway is amazing and I want you to see it.
Have a fantastic weekend everyone.
Ju x
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The lighthouse looks a bit ‘Toys-R-Us’ :-) Some cracking shots of the wildlife. Juvenile sea-hawk maybe? Have you ever seen one of those hard-core cyclists smiling?… Masochists! That fish looks worthy of the time and effort, well done you. :-) :-) See ya soon. Kindest, Wayne.
It is a white tailed baby this year’s I have been to jib but did not see anything like that x
Blimey, didn’t look like a baby, it was HUGE! :-)
Looks like a young Sea Eagle (Aka White tailed eagle as the adults have ……white tails !) bout 7ft wing span when fully grown. Your fish are pollack ……they grow pretty big too, up to about 20 lbs but I reckon the wee ones are tastier. Great with chips ha ha
Norway looks fantastic, great posts and pics, thanks
Cracking, thanks for the info Gordon. Jay
Nice pair of pollacks !
(well someone had to)
Great posts this week, couldn’t wait til Sunday morning. Cos I’ve been copying your stopovers from Tour 1 to my laptop I’ve been reading a few of them. Was that a cheap Lidl all day breakfast I spotted ? 😱
Hi Guys,
It was great to meet you both. Thanks for the hospitality and tips, enjoying the toast!
Hope you have a great time, Senja looks fantastic. Hope to see you out on the road.
Oh, do not apologise for the pics, keep them coming, we love them! Jay, have you lost some weight? You do look much younger than before, or is it the Arctic light?
Thanks J &J great reading your blogs, and some canny photos there, I now have the pleasure of looking through a Hymer window as i drive around Switzerland, bit of a bugger to park but with a loo and a beer fridge onboard life is fine……So it’s which Alp today ?
All the best
Bill
Quick question ….what do you think about deadlocks on the doors ?
Hi Bill
Great to hear you have your own windscreen to view through, and what a view in the alps!
Our habitation door already had a deadlock on it, Dave’s did too. If they didn’t we would probably get one fitted as the door locks don’t seem up to much.
Ju x
Great post. Heading to Norway and Senja this summer. Our sprinter van is just under 6M, but we will be carrying to bikes up high on a Fiamma rack. Will the ferries be charging us for longer than 6M? We specially chose a shortern van to help with parking and ferry tolls. Thanks forma great Blog! Mark
Hi Mark – they don’t usually measure the vans and just ask how long you are. Each ferry had its own payment collection person and some are more insistent/savvy than others so if they see a bike rack they may question whether you really are 6m long (or just ask whether you have a rack and then assume you are 7m if you say you do – ramping the price up significantly). We took the rack off to avoid the dilemma of what to say in this circumstance as the additional ferry fees would have easily been more than our (cheap) bikes are worth! Cheers, have a great trip, Jay