Šibenik and Thunderstorms, Croatia

Zagan the motorhome’s calming down after a good rocking by a thunderstorm here at Solaris Resort, Šibenik, Croatia (N43.69943 E15.87959). We retreated inside and have spent most of the afternoon watching stuff on the laptop and having a cheeky Tuesday (it is Tuesday isn’t it?) afternoon tipple or two – so apologies in advance if none of this makes sense.

It’s been cloudy for the last couple of days so no sunset as such, just a sky on fire.

This morning we were up and at ’em, as the bus to Šibenik only goes past the campsite four times a day. As Charlie wasn’t coming with us, we figured it best to go early as he’s not a morning pooch and likes a lie in. So we were at the bus stop (not that there was an actual stop, but we stood at the end of the entrance to the campsite) for 9am. Bang on time a bus pulled up going in the opposite direction to what we were expecting, waving my Šibenik brochure at him the driver nodded and we climbed aboard.

The bus took us past a large retail park, and all the high rise blocks we had seen as we drove up to the Krka National Park a couple of days ago. As it dropped us next to the old town, we realised we had done Šibenik a disservice. We walked along the sea front, breathing in the smell of honeysuckle from the plants around us and looking about over scenery that would be fitting for, and has probably been used in, Game of Thrones.

The town itself rose up steeply from the sea, the small houses forming a higgledy-piggledy warren of narrow alleys, each with pale stone flagstones that shone like polished leather. We enjoyed ourselves as we got lost, climbing steep, squeezed stairs and paths to front door deadends. The buildings themselves all pale stone, windows covered with dark green shutters and many had lintels with beautiful carvings – the sort that shouldn’t be on a house with a rotting wooden door secured with a chain.

As we climbed higher we saw the walls of Saint Michael’s Fortress (this isn’t just a Fortress, it’s a Marks & Spencers Fortress!) and after a scramble up a steep patch of land next to another front door deadend, we made our way inside its walls. We strolled taking in the views out to sea, then Jay cautiously ventured further in, expecting to be greeted by a ticket office but there wasn’t one, so we carried on. Through another open door we found an open air stage with seating, so had a little sit down. Then we spotted people on the very top of the walls of the fortress, so we found some stairs and joined them.

As we stood on top of the world drinking in the fantastic views across the city, I spotted a ticket office below us by the other entrance – oops. After walking around everything we wanted to see, it was obvious that the best route back into the town was past the ticket office. While Jay looked around I went on ahead only to hear a very loud “Come here” as I walked past. There was no one else around, so it was obviously aimed at me so I wandered over to the window.

“Where is your ticket?”
I smiled, “I have no ticket”

“You must buy ticket!” was barked at me, and as she started to write out the ticket I looked over at Jay who had heard what was going on and decided to hot foot it back out of the open entrance we came in on the other side. I don’t begrudge paying the 50kn (£5) for both of us to have a look around, but it was a tad steep seeing as we only spent about five minutes in there. Lesson learned – next time leave by the way you came in!!

The view worth the fee!!

After meeting up at the back of the fortress we headed back down towards the sea through more alleyways, past numerous churches and palaces before reaching the main attraction, the Cathedral of Saint James. The Cathedral took over a century to build and is entirely made of stone with no binding materials. Around its outside are portraits of people involved in its build – stone masons, carvers etc.

By now instead of having the place to ourselves, we were meeting up with tour groups, one of which was being told all about the cathedral, in English, while we were in there. However we were transfixed by the team undertaking the restoration of it. In the far corner from the door a fella with a paper facemask covering his nose and mouth, stood on a wooden crate next to a big piece of machinery. The machine hummed into life while he picked up a small pen shaped object attached to a large tube, and pointed it at the dark stone ceiling. Before our eyes, and with a small puff of dust, a tiny beam of light appeared on the stone and started to clean it. This beam was about the size of a penny, and needed to go over each bit a few times to get it clean. I can’t imagine how long it will take to fully restore the place.

Looks like the angels are helping with the restoration

Back out in the open we walked around a bit more before we realised we’d been down this alley before, and that one. A quick time check and it was 15 minutes before the next bus back to the campsite. The following bus was in three hours, with Charlie left on his own, and a thunderstorm predicted (Charlie hates thunder, more than mornings), so we decided to head back and look after pampered pooch.

Jay has a very keen eye for spotting anything Communist – this was above a door way.

At the bus stop, there was one this time, the woman in the ticket office shouted ‘Solaris’ as a bus pulled in – even though it had no mention of Solaris on the front. We got on, then got off, as we had to buy our tickets from the office first. They cost just 26kn (£2.60) each way for both of us, and were worth it. Šibenik certainly wasn’t the high rise place we had expected after seeing its outskirts, and the town really did warrant a longer stay. But we got back before the heavens opened (which is why Jay has an umbrella in the photos), and sat with Charlie as the thunder roared and Zagan rocked in the wind.

Tomorrow we’ll head somewhere else. Our ACSI book still hasn’t arrived so we won’t be going far, but Croatia is such a beautiful and relaxing country it doesn’t matter where we go, I suspect we’ll love it.

Ju x