Into the Lofotens, Free Camping on Austvågøy Island
Zagan the motorhome’s fending off the mists and rain on the northern Lofoten island of Austvågøy, free camping along with 7 other vans at a viewpoint by the ocean (N68.31580, E14.71555). The view would be (and hopefully will be in the morning) stunning, but for the drizzle and low cloud. Even in this most British of weather, the water hanging in a 200m fall from the cliff face opposite looks just superb.
Free camping on Austvågøy. French, Belgian and Norwegian motorhomes with us this evening
Our view tonight
When it comes to discussions about the most scenic places to visit in Europe, two places always seem to come out tops with fellow vanners: the Greek Peloponnese and The Norwegian Lofotens. There are hosts of other contenders, but these two are the Big Hitters, the Muhammad Ali and Mike Tyson of this fine continent we have the pleasure to travel. The Peloponnese we have seen, and they’re true wonders, the kind of place which should no longer exist in our world, but thankfully does. The Lofotens, we’re just about to see for ourselves, bring it the hell on.
Last night as the sun dipped low, the Lofoten Wall to the south, a seemingly impassable hulk of mountains rising direct from the sea, glowed purple. The camera, not yet being the human eye, couldn’t capture it, but we had a go anyway before attempting sleep. Outside squawks and chatter of sea birds had me in mind of the aviary in one of the Jurassic Parks as I drifted off.
The Lofoten Wall
This morning I had a wander around our parking spot, checking out a memorial of a smashed engine, complete with intact lockwire, remembering folks killed when an airplane crashed in the 1940’s into the mountain above us in fog. Suitably sobered, we set off for mackerel. Wayne, from Charlie the Chucklebus, had caught a couple of fine examples, writing about them on his and Angie’s blog and giving us the GPS co-ordinates. Heading for the hallowed spot the mountains climbed ahead of us, and the clouds slowly gathered.
Heading for the Lofotens from the North
Many tunnels today, some 2 miles long. We tuned into tunnel radio to entertain us
Rolling into the mackerel spot, a patch of land at the end of a beautiful fjord near Hamsel (N68.46634, E15.40104), I leaped out and scrambled through the heather and stone down to the sea. Standing on a rock, I threw the lure in a few times until bang! The damn thing got caught on the sea bed. No, wait, it’s moving, slewing about in the water. Reeling like a fool I caught a flash of camo-skin: mackerel! After a quick fight in which the reel unwound on its safety ratchet as quickly as I could wind in, I pulled the magnificent animal in. A short while later the same: another beautiful fish, and plenty enough for tea for the two of us. Filleted, dried, salted and quickly shallow-fried, they tasted very fine indeed.
Mackerel from the Arctic fjord behind them. Caught with a basic metal lure and a cheap telescopic rod
Charlie scored a few bits shaved off during filleting
Despite being a cracking spot to stay, there are sooooo many similar cracking spots around these parts, and the rain was now steadily falling. Checking out the potential places along the way who should arrive, much to their bemusement, but Richard and Jenny! Having made a foray up to Stø they were on the same path as us and accidentally arrived at the same (hidden from the road) spot as us. Over a brew we caught up before deciding on somewhere to meet up later on.
Mackerel fishing spot near Hadsel
Spotting the famous Hurtigruten as we crossed the bridge to Austvågøy
After that it went a tiny bit wrong. On the way out of a miles-long tunnel, the fuel light came on. Ah. Out we popped and found Richard and Jenny parked by a ferry port. Asking at the cafe, the lady confirmed the nearest fuel was either (a) 500m from the ferry port on the other side – requiring a not-too-cheap boat to get to it or (b) 30km away at Svolvær. Or we could siphon some fuel from Richard and Jenny’s wagon (thanks again guys), but I’d done that in the past and got a lungful which I don’t ever fancy getting again. T’interweb told me a Fiat Ducato should do 50 miles on the fuel light so off we went, feeling a bit sick at the thought of being a mile into a tunnel and running out of diesel.
Fiat Ducato fuel light on, ah…
Fortunately the road chose to keep close to the wet stuff, and not thirstily switch back and forth over the hills and we easily made it with a good 5 litres of diesel to spare, phew.
Ouch, that’s a big number
This way to the LPG, but get there before 5pm!
Relieved, we tried to top off the LPG tanks too but the place was closed for the evening, so not being too taken with Svolvær, we cruised a few miles back down the E10 here. Popping ourselves in a corner, we’ve taken a look about before settling in with a book (Michael Booth’s The Almost Nearly Perfect People – Behind the Myth of the Scandinavian Utopia for me, no less – thanks Wayne – I can hardly put it down) and watching a bit of telly. Bring on tomorrow.
Cheers, Jay
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Oh, wow, you’re becoming an expert at fishing! Congratulations! And oh oh oh, fuel low, we know all about that, well with a hired van in Australia that is – vast distances there, as you must know… But all went well!
Can’t beat sea-fresh Macs. Lovely coated in rolled oats and shallow fried – yum!
Oooh, rolled oats, we’ve got some with us so if we happen to get any more well give that a go, thanks Paul! Jay
Looks like you did a cracking job with those mackrel Jay. Glad you are enjoying the book, I did too. It sounds like you were so busy enjoying yourselves, you forgot about the diesel? :-) The best is yet to come…keep us posted. Kindest, Wayne.
Sigh. Ju spotted a place flogging it for 12 NOK and I went all ‘nah, there’ll be loads of stations in the Lofotens’… My fault entirely, but made up for it be doubling back so we’ve not missed out! Big biker party in Svolvear this weekend, so we’re thinking we’ll head back there tomorrow before going further south. Had full sun yesterday, full cloud today though. Happy travels! Jay
Hi Our Tour. You mention the camera not being able to capture the drama of scenery like the human eye. Depending on whether you want to know how to do this or not I can tell you how to get much closer to doing so. 1. It involves taking photos in RAW mode (not jpeg). No pro Landscape photographer uses jpegs. Trust me RAW is the way to go. 2.Time. RAW needs time in order to squeeze the most from it. Jpeg is quick and does an OK job but RAW + Photoshop is where the “Wow!”lies. 3. Camera. If your camera doesn’t support RAW files then forget what I just said. If it does (even better if it takes jpeg AND RAW and you may as well use that option) then consider RAW.
Lee & Angeline – just a couple of weeks from delivery of our first motorhome. Naming ceremony & BLOG to follow
Thanks Lee. No RAW on our camera but we’ll have a play in future when we get a camera with the capability to capture ’em. Have fun with your new adventure wagon and, if you don’t mind, send us the blog when you have it going? Cheers, Jay