Fishguard, Goodwick and Lower Town, Three in One

We could have easily stayed at the campsite near St Davids, and watch the sea through our windsreen for several more days. However, time is ticking along and we need to be back home in about a week, so onwards we moved.

As we had to be off our pitch by 11am and couldn’t arrive at our next site until 2pm, we had to do some thinking. Normally it wouldn’t be a problem, but as everything is so close in Pembrokeshire (apparently you’re never more than 10 miles from the sea) the drive between sites was only half an hour. A quick look on the Search for Sites website and the problem was solved, when we found a large parking area in Fishguard for folks arriving from or catching the ferry to Ireland. Arriving at the car park we discovered it was next to a Tesco Express, a chippy and an Esso that sold LPG (and had it in stock). There were several other motorhomes in the parking area, so we could have stayed there for the night, just like the old days for free camping everywhere, but we’d already booked and paid for the campsite up the road.

We left Zagan and set off to walk along the coastal path to Fishguard. But hang on, aren’t we in Fishguard? The ferry goes from Fishguard and we’re parked just a few hundred metres from it. Nope, it turned out we were in Goodwick, which is where Fishguard harbour is, as opposed to the older more picturesque harbour which is known as Lower Town Fishguard. Fishguard town itself crowns the summit of the headland between the two ports. Confusing? Just a bit, three ‘Fishguards’ for the price of one!

At the ferry port we could see a queue of motorhomes lining up to head to Ireland. It gave me a bit of a buzz, that ferry feeling. The start of another adventure somewhere. We’ve never made it over to the island of Ireland (not in a motorhome), but we hope to rectify that soon. Currently we’ve stuff we need to deal with at home, and our parents need a bit more support right now. So, we’re keeping our trips shorter and within a few hour’s drive of home in case we need to head back. We’re not feeling deprived though, as the Welsh coast has been beautiful, enough to rival scenery across Europe – especially when the weather is good.

It took a while to work our way along the coastal path at Goodwick as it was dotted with information boards and mosaics about the history of the area. The hills overlooking us were the launch point for Denys Corbett Wilson who made aviation history in 1912 when he undertook the first successful flight from Britain to Ireland. His achievement wasn’t widely reported due to the sinking of the Titanic a few days before.

A nearby beach was where French troops laid down their arms in surrender after the last invasion of Britain. In 1797 Colonel Tate and some 1200 French Troops came ashore nearby, but unfortunately for Tate, many of his troops had been recruited from prisons and once ashore set about looting and getting drunk. This had the locals grabbing anything they could to defend their town and villages. Cobbler Jemima Nicholas became ‘The Welsh Heroine’ in the process, after capturing 12 Frenchmen armed only with a pitchfork. Needless to say the invasion ended after only three days with a surrender being signed in the local pub.

Marine Walk took us around the headland between the two ports, and as Lower Town came into view it was like stepping back in time. If the cars were removed and the boats in the harbour were swapped for rowing boats, you’d have an instant film set for years gone by. ‘Under Milk Wood’ was filmed here in 1971, as was ‘Moby Dick’ in 1956, causing a no doubt memorable shout for the local lifeboat when it was needed to track down Moby Dick himself – the huge mock-up of a great white whale broke loose from the tug that was towing it.

After a wander around the harbour, we made our way back over the headland to have a look at ‘Main Town’ Fishguard, before a final stop at Tesco for some supplies before heading over to our next campsite.

The road down to the site was very narrow in places with the plants on the verge brushing us on both sides at the same time. Arriving at the site, we parked Zagan in a spare pitch and I walked over to reception which is housed in an old WWII lookout post. It was closed, but a sign on the door listed the free pitches and told you to set up and pop in the following morning to pay.

So, Zagan the motorhome is now parked up between two luxury lodges at Fishguard Bay Resort (N52.006349, W4.939). The folks staying in the lodge to our left are relaxing in their hot tub sunk into the decking in front of the lodge, with an uninterrupted view out across the sea. We have an uninterrupted view of them in the hot tub, so we’ve closed our blinds on that side to give them some privacy.

It seems that the resort is going through a bit of a transformation. No longer primarily a camping and caravan place, but a site of luxury lodges with amazing views (if you’ve a spare £275,000 going you can bag yourself one). Amongst the lodges are a few caravans, whose days I suspect are numbered, some glamping pods and a few areas for us motorhomes to park or tents to pitch, with glimpses of the sea between the lodges. The coastal path runs through the site too, and the middle of the motorhome area, so every so often hikers wander past probably feeling as much out of place here as we do.

This morning I headed along the coastal path back towards Fishguard’s old fort, while Jay headed in the opposite direction to the headland we are looking out over. Each of us having a separate little adventure, taking in different views. Although I think mine was best, simply because I spotted a few fins popping up in the sea – no idea what they were, but great to see.

Tomorrow we’re moving on further up the coast. The campsite here is in a great location for views, but not much else. One chap told me he’s walked along the coastal path to the fort I visited this morning and got the bus back, but we’ll move to somewhere that’s a bit closer to the action.

Ju x