Crossing the Charente Countryside to Villebois-Lavalette
Zagan the motorhome’s à deux pas from the centre of the Roman-era town of Villebois-Lavalette in the Charente department in south-west France. Once again we’re in a free aire, and tonight we’re sharing it with no-one (N45.48202, E0.27710).
The free motorhome aire two steps from the centre of Villebois-Lavalette
Yesterday, about 30 seconds after clicking the Publish button saying we were staying in Cherroux, we got a message from Larry and Lorraine: “if you’re close and want to nip down a day early, come on in”. A few minutes later we were packed up and bouncing our way on back roads through the autumnal scene that is rural France. An hour later we parked up in their small village, having got a very amicable thumbs-up from the mayor that we could sleep in her car park for the night, as we did the last time we were here.
And from this point onwards we were fully fed and refreshed by these guy’s warm hospitality, including a very serious attempt to empty an entire 10 litre box of wine. Yes folks, not only is the wine less expensive en France than in the UK, it comes in HUGE boxes! These guys lived in France for years, integrating to the point of Lorraine successfully being elected onto the local council, before moving back to the UK and keeping the house here as a base in Europe (houses in rural France are much cheaper than similar properties in the UK).
Tons of stories flowed with the wine, but my favourite one had to be the alcho-cars. This frankly incredible true story goes like this: if you get convicted of drink-driving in France, you can still drive. You just have to buy a tiny-engine’d car (nick-named alcho-cars) and Santé! you’re tootling about again. Handy to know: if you find yourself in the unlikely scenario of your lumbering motorhome being held up by such a car, the driver could well have supped more than a couple of pastis. Another handy bit of info we picked up: the French have their own set of gestures. Sure, we know about the Gallic Shrug, the Cheek Kiss and the Crushing Handshake, but did you know they have a hand-slapping way to say ‘let’s get out of here’?
Sadly since we last visited Lorraine and Larry, their beloved pooch Bruce has passed away and is laid to rest in their equally beloved garden. As we walked around the trees, flowers and shrubs, they both spoke about each of the plants they’re placed their with such warmth and care, I almost wanted a garden again. Talk of grass a meter high after time away touring reminded me I’m far too lazy to be keeping a garden. As we left this morning, having again been fed by home made food (Lorraine: you’re an angel, and a fantastic cook), I pondered the idyllic look of their pad out here. For us I suspect it would be too remote, but as we ‘lick the windows’ (the French way of saying window shopping) of estate agents, there are some very nice looking places in small towns for not much wonga, interesting.
Those guys are bouncing up and out of the UK in the next 2 or 3 weeks, picking up a new campervan before turning south for Spain, so we may well see ’em somewhere on the Iberian Pensinsular before the winter’s out. Their approach is to head down to the Med and then along the southern Spanish coast, to get to the better weather quickly. That’s got us wondering if we should change plan, and instead of aiming for the Bay of Biscay, keep going south in France past the eastern edge of the Pyrenees. Hmmmm.
Ju took the wheel for the drive here, as my head was ‘made of wood’ as the French say… She did a great job squeezing this wide-assed thing down the D roads and through sunlit sandstone medieval villages. Beneath a blue sky and setting sun we had a walk around the town, past the 400 year old covered market and around the filled-in moat of the château. The town’s quiet at the moment, and we’re spotting a fair few ‘restaurant closed until December’ signs, but it’s quite a beautiful spot and a great recommendation. Once again: thanks Lorraine!
Sunshine! Yeah baby!
Villebois-Lavalette Church – currently condemned – something to do with an unsafe roof
The 16th century covered market in Villebois-Lavalette
The TV’s now on, showing a very fine episode of M*A*S*H and we’re chilling out as cars start to flow around us; we think there’s a party on in one of the adjacent houses. It’s all of 8pm and we’re bushed, having been well and truly entertained last night!
Cheers, Jay
Hi, Just been to Ikea and got one of those wonder clocks ( Lottorp ) you wrote about some time ago. Really pleased with it, might have to go back and get some more for stocking fillers! Thanks for the post.
Still following latest route with great interest as it’s the way our next trip is planned.
Have fun
Richard
Cheers Richard, we use ours constantly, used this morning to see when the heating had been on long enough for us to descend from the bed! Jay
arrgh stoppit ! torture !
You’re following a similar route that we took a couple of months ago.
Water tanks cleaned and heater emptied yesterday and now GlorYa wants to get on the road again.
Have you not been to Lourdes ? It’s a hoot. Luvved it. Good Pyrenees crossing via the D918 to Jaca. Plenty of places to camp. Our favourite was near a restaurant called “La Tachouere”
42°57’39.2″N 0°15’26.4″W
42.960899, -0.257322
Two massive car parks. Spose the weather would be a bit iffy now but hey what a route.
Happy trails,
GlorYa
Haha, nope, not been to Lourdes but have heard it’s interesting! We’ve chains and M+S tyres but methinks we’ll take a low route over this particular set of hills. Thanks for the recommendation though, there’s always the way back. Sunshine had arrived and looking good for the next 10 days, sweet. Cheers, Jay
You are 20 miles NW of Brantome. Another lovely little village with an Aire (small charge I think) walking distance to town.
Although I don’t expect it will be quite as buzzing as it was this July.
I think I may prefer some of these places in winter though.
Lee at http://www.gohumberto.com
Yes, Brantome is a lovely place. Heading south at a pace (for us), so not one for today :(
Lovely to see your getting souther and towards warmer weather. Haha, for me beginning november South of France was getting already chilly, had -2 few days later in North Spain at night, now almost in Algarve +16. Happy driving for you guys :)