Bantry and the Healy Pass in a Motorhome

Leaving Mizen Head we had two choices, follow the Wild Atlantic Way around the Sheep’s Head Peninsula to Bantry, or cut across the top of it and head straight to Bantry. Neither of us got a very good night’s sleep on Mizen Head, as the wind charged at Zagan for most of the night, so we decided to head straight to Bantry.

Little wonder Sheep’s Head is the least visited of West Cork’s three peninsulas, it’s got some tough competition either side of it. The decision was also helped by our Lonely Planet guidebook stating that on the Sheeps Head ‘the road becomes narrower and more twisty’. We’d knew there’d be some narrow and twisty just to get to Bantry, and as we’ve now given ourselves permission to not drive every inch of the Wild Atlantic Way, we’re feeling much happier.

The drive to Bantry would have been stunning on a normal day, but the grey skies and tiredness left it feeling flat. We tucked in behind a slow car, using it to meet all the on-coming traffic, and soon we were back on the N71 and arriving in Bantry. There are two main options to stay in the town, a motorhome aire right on the marina for €15 a night with electric and services, or a motorhome parking provided by a local hotel, also with services but no electricity for €10. We’d heard reports that the marina was closer to the road, and as we were in need of a good night’s sleep, we headed straight to the hotel.

We followed the signs into and back out of the hotel’s main car park and down a narrow lane onto a huge flat parking area with a service point in the corner – perfect. I walked back to the hotel reception to check us in and felt very aware that I hadn’t brushed my hair since the high winds at Mizen Head. The place was spotless, polished floors and gleaming trimmings, what you’d expect from a four star hotel, but not what you get used to when touring in a motorhome.

The ladies at reception were lovely and while I filled out some paperwork they explained we were welcome to eat in the restaurant or have a drink in the bar, and we also got a discount on the leisure facilities. A sauna, steamroom and jaccuzi would have been amazing, but when packing for Ireland I mostly filled the cupboards with woolly hats, gloves and thermals, I didn’t think to pack my swimwear.

We set off for the short walk through the landscaped grounds of the hotel to the town. Bantry Bay is said to be one of the country’s most attractive seascapes, but as Bantry itself is sheltered from the bay by islands, you don’t get to see much of the seascape.

The town itself was pretty enough, and we tried to read some of the information boards about its history, but nothing was sinking in. We were tired. We did a once around the town, tried a couple of cash points but they wanted to charge us fees to get our money out (update – we’ve since got fee free withdrawal at an AIB cash machine) and nipped into the SuperValu supermarket for something for tea.

On the way back to Zagan we marvelled at how it was only just 4pm and already there were six motorhomes in the five designated spaces at the marina (later there were even more).

Back in our quiet hotel car park we chilled out watching some TV then Jay went for a run to try and wake himself up. It didn’t work and by 10pm we were both tucked up and sleeping like logs.

This morning Zagan was emptied and filled and we were on the road by 9.30am. Our goal today was to bag one of the free motorhome parking spaces at Castletownbere so we could hop on the ferry tomorrow morning and take part in the Bere Island Parkrun. The skies were blue and the trees, grass and plants looked extra green, as if someone had dialled up the colour. Poor Jay had to keep pulling in to stop so I could take photos.

As we turned off the N71 and onto the Beara Peninsula, we wondered if today might be a good day to tackle Healy Pass. The pass cuts across the pneinsular about a third of the way down it, and is said to be a beautiful drive. Traffic was light and visibility good, so we decided to go for it. We figured we could drive the 13km long pass, turn around and come back over it, and still be in Castletownbere for lunchtime.

Jay’s description of driving the pass was ‘bad, good, bad’. It started off with some tight blind bends (which are even blinder when you’re in a left hand drive motorhome) then the trees and shrubs vanished and you could see miles ahead of you – plenty of time to pull into a passing place if needed. But it was hardly needed. We had the road pretty much to ourselves for our first drive over it. So much so that as well as stopping in laybys to get out and take photos, we took to me jumping out and snapping Zagan driving along the road too.

For those of you thinking of driving the pass yourself, jump into the passenger seat with us and see what it’s like – apologies for the dirty windscreen though!

Our return to sea level was with a bump, quite literally, as a tree branch took a swipe at one of Zagan’s new wing mirrors. It wasn’t as if we were tucked in and trying to pass anyone at that point, but we were back in the ‘bad’ part of the drive as Jay described it. Both tree and wing mirror survived.

A few miles later, and after a quick stop for some of the cheapest diesel we’ve seen (€1.449 per litre – petrol is more expensive here and was €1.609/l), we rolled into Castletownbere. There were cars everywhere, we assumed it was market day, but it wasn’t, it must just have been Friday lunchtime busy. With fingers and toes crossed, we turned into the motorhome parking area (N51.649834, W9.913092) and grabbed a space looking out across the water, fantastic!

After a spot of lunch we headed out for a wander around Castletownbere and to work out where the ferry goes from in the morning. It turns out the town is Ireland’s main white fishing port. Colourful vessels from France and Spain tie up next to the local fishing fleet all out to catch cod, haddock, whiting, tuna, hake and monkfish, while the smaller boats land lobster and crab.

Tonight we’re off out into town for a bite to eat, then we’ve an early start for Parkrun in the morning. Motorhomes are allowed to park here for free for 48 hours, so we’ll probably make the most of that and plan what we want to see and do next.

Ju x