Ambling about Picardie, Saint Valery Sur Somme
Zagan the motorhome’s nestled in among 100-ish other motorhomes at the official aire in Saint Valéry sur Somme, in Picardie (N50.18261, E1.62918). We’re a tad surprised there are so many vans out and about in April, although the mild weather, school holidays and the weekend might be helping. On the hour-long drive here our arms were on springs, bouncing up every couple of minutes to wave at an oncoming camping cariste.
The motorhome aire at Saint Valery Sur Somme. It’s huge – big enough for maybe 200 vans. We’ve made good use of the electricity, baking some sausages and spuds in our Remoska.
Up at Stella Plage, the wind continued to blow inlands on our last day there. During a long training run, cursing the occasionally soft sands, I lumbered past wind socks pointing like accusing fingers, pushing my way up past the silent white Big Wheel at Le Touquet Paris Plage and into the dunes beyond. A younger version of me stayed there seven years ago, with a piece of carpet plastic in place of the main skylight, which we’d ripped off on the M25, and a warm fridge. I gave that young, fearful fool a silent salute as I lugged my unwilling body past the area.
On the way back, the sea had whipped up a grey-green foam, which threw itself in balls against my legs. Gatherings of tiny birds hopped off on one foot before taking to the air in a panic, landing a short way south before repeating the whole episode a minute later. Later on the land yachts and kite surfers came out to play, entertaining us as we leaned on the beach wall to watch.
Stella Plage could easily have held us longer. Why move? Where should we go? Our maps aren’t much help. Curiosity has been a magnet in the past, but lines of previous trips crisscross a continent, and much of our native interest has waned with semi-familiarity. We’re also a little lazy. The places we sense we’d most like to be are some distance away: the Alps, Pyrenees, Croatian coastline, the soft warmth of Provence. At the moment we’re in no hurry to plough on, and a recommendation from fellow motorhomers Larry and Lorraine for the aire here was eagerly snapped up.
The Somme. Everyone knows the name if not the details of history. 100-odd years ago a million men were injured or killed over the course of five months fighting over six miles of land. Travelling Europe and North Africa brings you into contact with endless reminders of horrific wars, and just being near the Somme had me pondering lessons of the past, despite the fact the killing fields were well off to the East.
The drive down here, bypassing the toll road, steadily reminded me to drive on the right. It’s pretty much second nature now, but I still fear a lapse and subsequent calamity. The nearest we came to tragedy though was an oncoming lorry carrying a mobile home, preceded by a comically-fast convoi exceptional safety car, both at full steam along a narrow road. With eyes squinted against smashed glass, I knew we were safely past when the flying building’s wind-cushion shoved us out of the way. The only other driving ‘incident’ saw me being sternly admonished by the occupant of a car, appearing from the side row in a car park, who found his path blocked by the Old Wall of White some call ‘Zagan’. It seems the incomprehensible priorité de droite rule extends to supermarket car parks – who knew?
Up here in the far north of France, the land’s mostly marsh and coppice. Off to the right, the Somme Bay appeared, wisely avoided by the road as it wends around the edge in a miles-wide C-shaped detour. Towards the end of the drive, with the fuel warning light on, the road crosses the Canal de la Somme (the river’s long been tamed into a channel), and we rolled into Intermarché expecting cheap supermarket gazole (diesel). €1.40 a litre! Grumble, grumble. With a half-filled tank, we followed the thousand signs pointing us to the motorhome aire and settled in. Before remembering we needed water, decamping to the service point, topping up and settling in again.
Yesterday we took a wander around the resort town, a 10 or 15 min amble from here. It’s a lovely little spot, with medieval towers (Joan of Arc was held here a while, and William the Conqueror set sail from here) and a beautiful boardwalk alongside the bay facing across to Le Crotoy (which has a couple of aires we’ve stayed in: one by the town and one by the beach). About eighty seals call the bay home, but there’s a better spot than this for watching the playful creatures rolling back in from the sea. After a slow wander among strolling French tourists, and realising it was now ‘locked o’clock’ (yes shops here still shut for lunch and on Sundays), we grabbed a baguette and headed for home. Later on we completed the re-induction with a supermarket shop, enjoying the usual sight of unusual foods, and the low price of wine and beer.
Incredibly strong beer for an incredible cheap price. I regretted not getting a can of the £1.30 devil beer, but have since remembered rancid-strong beer is usually just that: rancid!
The Baie de Somme
Joan of Arc was, apparently, taken through this arch on the way to an unpleasant death. Ju is, I’m advised, measuring whether Zagan would fit through.
We’re seeing some sunshine as spring arrives. It’s a good to have warmed bones again in promise of a welcome summer.
The clothes have changed, but not much else. Another sign told of the baths which used to be here, and how a champion swimmer used to float about on his back sucking on a cigar and shading his face under a green parasol.
Today, we’re taking it easy. A bit of reading, a bit of writing, some coffee, a little walk in a break in the rain. Kathryn and Alex, who we met in Spain some while back, are on their way north and should (with a following wind) be up this way tomorrow or the day after. It’s fascinating for us to chat with folks (especially of a similar age to us) who’ve travelled a while, so we’re hoping to catch ’em for a beer as they slingshot past.
Cheers, Jay
Great to see you guys back on the road again, looking forward to reading the blogs. Only a few weeks to go now until our next trip, can’t wait!
Really enjoying your blogs again, most importantly it looks like your enjoying your time on the road again. Sat in cold and forecast wet here near to your home abode. Got some days in May to plan for a holiday and very tempted by your write up on Saint Valery sur Somme.
Great to see you all back on the road. I am filled with envy. May the sun always shine on you and may you always find a fully serviced aire with spaces
Haha! Thanks Mike. 😀
If you don’t want it too hot for Charlie, why are hanging around in north France?
As it’s still early spring you could travel as far south as you want and follow the warm, not hot weather home!
It’s also less crowded as the season in Croatia will be quite at this time of the year.
Also all the wild flowers are blooming.
Good points. It’s not only Charlie which is holding is up here though: we’re just enjoying being in the van again in France and aren’t that interested in long driving days. The weather will likely get is heading south shortly though! Cheers, Jay
On the road again…….I’m all warm and fuzzy. Look forward to the adventures.
Hope you can hit the “switch off” button quickly Jay.
Thanks guys, managing OK so far! Cheers, Jay
Great to hear you are back travelling again we are off on the 14/5 for our first adventure and thank you both again for all the help and advice you have given to us. You never know we may meet on the road and then we can thank you in person and maybe buy you both a beer.
Cheers guys. If you’re buying the beer, we’ll come find you! :-) Have a great time, Jay
Thanks look forward to it!
Good to hear the pair of you have a new spring in your step!
Thanks for this post – we ended up in the aires after being quoted 36 euro for the pretty depressing looking camping walric up the road.