A Cheeky Train Ride To Reims

We mentioned in a previous post we’d been looking at visiting Reims and Strasbourg, but that we were thinking twice about it as they’ve both got low emission zones. Having looked at the map of the low emission zone in Reims several times, we were unsure if we’d be brave enough to risk it. The motorhome aire is right on the edge of the zone, next to a lovely big main road, the sort our satnav loves to take us on. One wrong turn could land us with a big fine as Zagan only has a level 4 Crit-air sticker, which are now banned in the town.

Fortunately for us, Sarah got in touch to suggest using the train as an option. Normally we don’t bother with a city if it’s too much hassle, as we’re not big fans of cities, but with nothing much else in the area peaking our interest, we thought we’d give it a go.

After a quiet night on the banks of the lake at Corbeny, we set off along the fast free D1044 that runs alongside the peage (toll) motorway. Arriving at Reims, we took the peage around the outside of the city before heading south towards Epernay.

We’d previously stopped in Epernay in 2015, when purely by chance it was the champagne festival. We had a great night visiting the free parties in the champagne houses on the famous Avenue de Champagne. We watched dragons roam the streets and saw folks drink lots of bubbles – we might have had a plastic glass of giggles each too.

Instead of stopping in Epernay again, we returned to another favourite motorhome aire in the small champagne village of Mutigny. We’d headed here in 2017 to help our pooch Charlie avoid the Bastille Day fireworks – he was a very pampered pooch. The free aire looks out across rolling hills of vines and is only a kilometre walk from Avenay train station.

It was on the walk through the vines to the train station that I discovered Jay had only looked at the location, and not the frequency of trains or if they even stopped here at all. As we neared the station the bells of the level crossing rang out and we both broke into a run. The train pulled in, and as I frantically stabbed at the screen of the ticket machine at the unmanned station, it pulled away again.

Checking the timetable the trains run every hour, so we relaxed and went back to the machine to work out what was going on. It turned out it wasn’t touch screen, well not entirely. For some menus you had to turn a plastic ring on the outside of the main ‘yes’ button. Once Jay had used the ring to select English, it was still as clear as mud. All the ticket options were still in French. Fortunately we had plenty of time and selected an open return for two people for €26.40.

With still nearly an hour to kill we went for a walk around the village of Avenay-Val-d’Or, however it was mainly closed. I’m sure some of the champagne houses in the village would have welcomed us, but we realised during a champagne tasting session that we’re not big fans of the fizz. Luckily we were in the two hour window that the post office opened, so we nipped in there and bought some stamps – which seriously took way longer than it should have, but we didn’t mind.

Bang on the dot, the 12.12 train arrived and whisked us into Reims. It only took around 20 minutes and most of that time was spent looking at a map to see what there was to see in Reims – yes our usual level of in-depth research. The first thing I discovered was I’ve pronounced it wrong all my life, thinking I sounded very local by saying ‘Rhemms‘. Turns out it’s pronounced more like a cross between ‘Rhance’ and ‘Rhonce‘.

Pulling into the train station, we’d only a couple of places marked on our map when Jay discovered Reims is where World War II ended. Right by the train station is the Musee de la Reddition (Museum of the Surrender) where on 7th May 1945 at 2.41am, in a secret ‘Salle des Cartes‘ (war room) officers of both sides signed a declaration of unconditional surrender of the Third Reich’s armed forces, ending World War Two in Europe.

At the time, the building, once Reims’ technical college, acted as the European headquarters of US General Dwight D Eisenhower (later President Eisenhower). The momentous news was broadcast at 3pm simultaneously the following day, 8 May, in the capital cities of the allied nations.

We then spent a lovely afternoon strolling around the streets of Reims. We wandered around the main attraction, its famous Cathedral, Notre-Dame de Reims, where 31 Kings of France were crowned. The Cathedral was badly damaged in 1914 and originally plans were to keep it in that state, however they were overruled and it’s been in a state of continual restoration since then – funded by the French state, with the Catholic Church being given exclusive use.

Even today part of the front was shrouded in scaffolding and you can clearly see how high up the facade the cleaning has gone. I only found out afterwards that many of the statues on the front (including the famous smiling angel) are replicas. The originals are now kept in the Tau Palace next door – which is currently closed for restoration, but looks forward to seeing us in 2025!

Reims was a lovely city to wander around for a few hours. With a large park area by the train station and wide streets with the usual shops and some impressive architecture above them. We managed to avoid all the Champagne related stuff, apart from peering in shop windows to see who could spot the biggest/most expensive bottle. I also nearly bought some of the very pink ‘Biscuit Roses of Reims’, until I discovered that you need to dip them in Champagne to get their full flavour.

Lunch was in the usual OurTour style, a takeaway Croque Monsieur and a coffee flavoured ‘Opera’ cake from the Intermarche supermarket, eaten by a fountain on a sort of roundabout in the middle of the city. It sounds worse than it was, as it was a lovely spot to people watch from.

I’m not sure Reims has caught me at my best, so I probably haven’t done it justice. I’m not really feeling inspired by much at the moment, which it partly why we’re struggling with places to go. There’s a lot going on at home and while I am appreciating the change of scenery, I still find myself on edge waiting for my Mum’s care home to call to say she needs to go to hospital again. Even though I know they’ll take care of it while I’m away, it still plays on my mind all the time. I guess the guilt of being away means I’m struggling to find the joy I used to get from travel. We always say it’s a good job we got our long-term trips in all those years ago, when we had the freedom as you never know what is around the corner.

Jay has headed out for a run through the vines to Epernay (he’s a glutton for punishment). We’ve a vague plan to head towards Germany for a Parkrun next Saturday, before heading into the Netherlands for one the following Saturday, before heading home. It’s only a short trip (for us) this time, but it’s reminding us why we keep Zagan even though he doesn’t get as much use as he should.

Ju x

PS – so once again folks, if you’re reading this drinking a glass of Moet and Chandon, check the date on the label. If it’s a 2017 or 2024 vintage, there may be a tiny whiff of Zagan fumes to it!