Vilnius, Capital of Lithuania
Zagan the motorhome is a few minute’s walk from Vilnius’ Old Town, in the motorhome parking area at Downtown Forest Hostel and Camping (N54.67793, E25.30221). It’s basically a relaxed(ish) backpacker joint (no parking on the grass, or drinking your own booze though), with a small field for tents and a smaller area for motorhomes and campervans to park, but no service point. To a tight-wad like me, the cost’s fairly high at €21 a night, but that includes electricity, access to a washing machine, showers and toilets. We could have stayed in one of the other two campsites in Vilnius for around the same price, but they are a bus or mini-bus trip away from the town. The other option was a car park down the road for €6 per 24 hours (N54.687799, E25.293889 – has video surveillance), but it’s boiling at the moment in the van – mid thirties during the day – so this place is perfect. Ju’s also taken advantage of the opportunity to remove most of Charlie’s fur again, as he was suffering in the heat.
Motorhome parking area at Downtown Forest Hostel and Camping, Vilnius
After a wee altercation on the road here (I can confirm Zagan’s horn still works), and me nearly driving straight past the entrance, we rolled in here with the sun blazing. The chap who runs the place speaks perfect English, and directed us into place before attempting to make our French neighbours move their rear wheels from the grass (they weren’t home – he’s since got them to move forwards). Motorhomes are an afterthought here I think, or a new thought should I say, and the place is far more geared up for folks toting backpacks. It reminds me of the five month trip I did around the world 20 years ago, only now I’m teetering on the edge of ‘old fart’ territory, if I haven’t already toppled in. Hence, it feels a bit weird inside, a sensation between wanting to fit in, and act like their Dad at the same time. There’s free tea and coffee in the mornings though, so I’ll abandon mixed feelings and caffeine my eyeballs out.
The other in-town motorhome parking option in Vilnius (N54.687799, E25.293889)
Vilnius, the capital city of Lithuania, comes across in our ancient Baltics Lonely Planet as a bohemian spot, all artists, parks, cheap bars and Baroque architecture. As I mouthed various expletives on the way in, I can’t say I was feeling much of this, as cars dodged about like, ah, dodgems. The area we’re parked in is, on the surface, rough. Bricks crumble behind a layer of graffiti. Window ledges are made from bent metal. The pavement is a worn sand-earth stretch alongside the road. It ain’t pretty, but it doesn’t feel in any way dangerous. It’s an odd area called Užupis, and is unofficially not part of the city. The locals have proclaimed it, all of a handful of backstreets, an Independent Republic, with a tiny army and a hilarious constitution.
Charlie’s liking point 12 of the Užupis constitution. I like all points!
Ju’s been on research duty for Vilnius for a few days, and had a walking tour lined up, which we’ve utterly failed to follow. Well, we did manage a part of it, ambling along through the Bernardine Garden:
Chilling in the Bernardine Garden
No high heels allowed in Bernardine Garden!
From there, a couple of steps up to the Three Crosses viewpoint:
Alright, more than a few steps!
The old and the new crosses. The Soviets tore down the old ones in 1950
Three crosses, Vilnius
Freebie vantage point from the Hill of the Three Crosses
Off the hill, via a sandy path through the woods, and out we came behind the cathedral. Vilnius is all about the churches, there a 15 of them for every inhabitant, or thereabouts! Having had a Russian population over time, both Catholic and Eastern Orthodox are represented.
Vilnius Cathedral
Vilnius Cathedral. Ju’s convinced the tower’s on a wonk…
Outside the Cathedral is a small coloured tile sat among hundreds of grey ones – the miracle tile or Stebuklas. It doesn’t look much, but represents something huge. It’s where the southern end of the Baltic Way (or Baltic Chain) started, when 2 million people joined hands to link up all three of the Baltic capitals as a peaceful protest to Russian oppression. Afterwards the Russians issued veiled threats of invasion, even sending the troops in before finally giving the country independence of the USSR in 1990, the year I went to university and was so pre-occupied with beer I missed all of it.
The Miracle Tile, Vilnius
Ju spinning about on the Miracle Tile – earning Team Zagan some good luck
By this point stomachs rumbled. Over the road to the Boom! burger bar recommended on our map which claims to be written by locals. Over a couple of Boom Burgers we got chatting with Michael, an American chap in his 60’s working as a construction consultant here for the past 3 years. He was one well-travelled fella, seemingly having worked in every corner of the Earth, after having gone to war for the US, as had his father and grandfather. He regaled us with non-stop tales of his travels (we felt a bit guilty as he hardly had chance to eat) to locations now very much off-limits to anyone wanting to retain the ability to breathe. Finally, stuffed, we shook hands and left.
Boom! burgers in Vilnius. Fantastic quality (good chips too) and friendly service, winner
We paid €20 including a decent tip for two filling meals and two drinks
Beers at the Boom! bar. Not as cheap as I’d hoped, but it was far too hot to be supping ale
From there we sat under a tree awhile, before ambling back through the old town to here. The plan’s to stay here a couple of nights, and as we’re so close to the city we’ll do a few trips in and out on foot. Cracking stuff, Vilnius is coming good folks!
Vilnius Old Town
Tonight only folks, two Doors of the Day for the price of one!
Cheers, Jay
A constitution penned by Dr.Suess! Doors with character and ale at £3 a pint, Vilnius doesn’t sound too bad. Kindest, Wayne
Never heard of him before, many thanks for the introduction Wayne!
Particularly liking this Dr Seuss quote:
“The more that you read, the more things you will know. The more that you learn, the more places you’ll go.”
Cheers! Jay
Not sure this will post in the comments window, I can’t get to the end of it without welling up. Hope you like it too.
Poem by Dr.Seuss….
Congratulations!
Today is your day.
You’re off to Great Places!
You’re off and away!
You have brains in your head.
You have feet in your shoes
You can steer yourself
any direction you choose.
You’re on your own. And you know what you know.
And YOU are the guy who’ll decide where to go.
You’ll look up and down streets. Look ’em over with care.
About some you will say, “I don’t choose to go there.”
With your head full of brains and your shoes full of feet,
you’re too smart to go down any not-so-good street.
And you may not find any
you’ll want to go down.
In that case, of course,
you’ll head straight out of town.
It’s opener there
in the wide open air.
Out there things can happen
and frequently do
to people as brainy
and footsy as you.
And when things start to happen,
don’t worry. Don’t stew.
Just go right along.
You’ll start happening too.
OH!
THE PLACES YOU’LL GO!
You’ll be on your way up!
You’ll be seeing great sights!
You’ll join the high fliers
who soar to high heights.
You won’t lag behind, because you’ll have the speed.
You’ll pass the whole gang and you’ll soon take the lead.
Wherever you fly, you’ll be the best of the best.
Wherever you go, you will top all the rest.
Except when you don’ t
Because, sometimes, you won’t.
I’m sorry to say so
but, sadly, it’s true
and Hang-ups
can happen to you.
You can get all hung up
in a prickle-ly perch.
And your gang will fly on.
You’ll be left in a Lurch.
You’ll come down from the Lurch
with an unpleasant bump.
And the chances are, then,
that you’ll be in a Slump.
And when you’re in a Slump,
you’re not in for much fun.
Un-slumping yourself
is not easily done.
You will come to a place where the streets are not marked.
Some windows are lighted. But mostly they’re darked.
A place you could sprain both you elbow and chin!
Do you dare to stay out? Do you dare to go in?
How much can you lose? How much can you win?
And IF you go in, should you turn left or right…
or right-and-three-quarters? Or, maybe, not quite?
Or go around back and sneak in from behind?
Simple it’s not, I’m afraid you will find,
for a mind-maker-upper to make up his mind.
You can get so confused
that you’ll start in to race
down long wiggled roads at a break-necking pace
and grind on for miles across weirdish wild space,
headed, I fear, toward a most useless place.
The Waiting Place…
…for people just waiting.
Waiting for a train to go
or a bus to come, or a plane to go
or the mail to come, or the rain to go
or the phone to ring, or the snow to snow
or waiting around for a Yes or a No
or waiting for their hair to grow.
Everyone is just waiting.
Waiting for the fish to bite
or waiting for wind to fly a kite
or waiting around for Friday night
or waiting, perhaps, for their Uncle Jake
or a pot to boil, or a Better Break
or a sting of pearls, or a pair of pants
or a wig with curls, or Another Chance.
Everyone is just waiting.
NO!
That’s not for you!
Somehow you’ll escape
all that waiting and staying.
You’ll find the bright places
where Boom Bands are playing.
With banner flip-flapping,
once more you’ll ride high!
Ready for anything under the sky.
Ready because you’re that kind of a guy!
Oh, the places you’ll go! There is fun to be done!
There are points to be scored. there are games to be won.
And the magical things you can do with that ball
will make you the winning-est winner of all.
Fame! You’ll be famous as famous can be,
with the whole wide world watching you win on TV.
Except when they don’t.
Because, sometimes, they won’t.
I’m afraid that some times
you’ll play lonely games too.
Games you can’t win
’cause you’ll play against you.
All Alone!
Whether you like it or not,
Alone will be something
you’ll be quite a lot.
And when you’re alone, there’s a very good chance
you’ll meet things that scare you right out of your pants.
There are some, down the road between hither and yon,
that can scare you so much you won’t want to go on.
But on you will go
though the weather be foul
On you will go
though your enemies prowl
On you will go
though the Hakken-Kraks howl
Onward up many
a frightening creek,
though your arms may get sore
and your sneakers may leak.
On and on you will hike
and I know you’ll hike far
and face up to your problems
whatever they are.
You’ll get mixed up, of course,
as you already know.
You’ll get mixed up
with many strange birds as you go.
So be sure when you step.
Step with care and great tact
and remember that Life’s
a Great Balancing Act.
Just never forget to be dexterous and deft.
And never mix up your right foot with your left.
And will you succeed?
Yes! You will, indeed!
(98 and 3 / 4 percent guaranteed.)
KID, YOU’LL MOVE MOUNTAINS!
So…
be your name Buxbaum or Bixby or Bray
or Mordecai Ali Van Allen O’Shea,
you’re off to Great Places!
Today is your day!
Your mountain is waiting.
So…get on your way!
Many mountains waiting Wayne, and we’re on our way there. Thanks for this, very moving, again much appreciated. Jay
Just simply well put in a round about sort of way,what we finD out/see when travelling…
Thanks Wayne