Pre-Ferry Chores Day, Heading to Sangatte

Greetings from the car park of a Supermarché Match at, erm, hang on a mo, just pulling up maps.me on my phone. OK, we’re in Trépied, apparently, between Cucq and Le Treport, about an hour south of Calais. We’re not sleeping here (although I suspect we’d get away with it), but have been drawn in by the Revolution Laundry. This stand-alone housing with washing machines and a dryer positioned in the supermarket car park. You can search for French ones here and ones in the UK here. They’re also on the park4night.com app.

Yep, it’s chores day, the day before we get the ferry back to the UK from Calais. Checklist: washing, goodies from the supermarket, LPG and diesel. We’ve used the gaspal app to eyeball the location of Total petrol stations for their (temporarily) cheap fuel, and have used Google Maps to locate a large Auchan Hypermarket east of Bolougne for shopping. I’m keen to avoid shopping or even stopping in Calais as I’m fearful of dealing with the migrants. I’m 100% sympathetic to their cause, and feel they’re a benign collection of people. The last time we went to the Auchan in Calais (admittedly frazzled as we rushed home in 2020) I found myself watching large numbers of lads wandering around the car park trying the doors of vans. I saw no violence, threats or damage, but I was less than comfortable with the situation and want to avoid it.

Yesterday, we spent 3 hours driving the coastal D940 across Normandy, into the Pas-De-Calais, around the broad marsh of the Somme Bay and up to Stella Plage, south of Le Touquet. The skies were grey, easing us north and into the waiting British autumn. Other than yellowing corn, the expanses of hedgeless fields were largely empty. Many sprouted stubble, others were ploughed-brown. We passed an impressive machine using conveyor belts to eat away at a pile of (maybe?) sugar beet and drop them into a waiting lorry.

A sign pointed left to La Centrale Nucléaire de Penly. That’s the second nuclear plant we’ve passed in three days. The other was at Paluel, the 7th largest in the world, about five miles from our last stopover. Curious about the plants I looked it up, finding that France has the second largest nuclear fleet in the world, after the USA. They produce about 78% of their power from nuclear. Add in hydro and wind, and they only use 3% fossil-fuels for power generation (in the UK it’s 43%). Most of the time they’re a net exporter of power, having over-invested in nuclear after the oil crisis in the 1970s.

Ah, Ju’s back, stage 1 of the great wash-athon is complete. The €10 big washer has done its thing and anything which can be tumble-dried is going into the massive dryer. All the quick drying stuff has found a hook or bar to hang off in the kitchen and bathroom. We’ve had luck with our timing. Someone is washing their duvet in there now. Ju had a chat with a British lady using the machines who has a house here. She said in passing that she’s ‘worried about the 90 day rule’. I guess those restrictions are really starting to bite now the pandemic has eased.

Back at Stella Plage, we arrived to find the aire rammed (N50.474018, E1.577352). It’s set along a dead-end road to the campsite, in between sets of high sand dunes, just a short walk to the sea. The town itself is, like a few of the towns around here, a kind of pre-fabricated place built just for summer. It’s thousands of apartments are almost all shuttered now. Outdoor seats and tables are wrapped in plastic. Hundreds of car parking spaces sit empty. Stella Plage comes alive for just July and August, then goes back into stasis.

But not the 20 spaces of the motorhome aire! OK, it’s only mid September, not the depths of winter, but I was still surprised every space was taken when we arrived around mid-day. We rolled to the end of the vans and installed ourselves in one of the car parking spaces at the end, alongside another rig that had done the same. Another couple of vans took the remaining car spaces soon afterwards.

More and more vans arrived, another 10 or 15 maybe. Most used the turning circle and left. One, a British couple, opted for another approach and parked up in the turning circle itself. They got out and wandered around chatting with folks around us, pointing out they were waiting for the remaining car to leave. I have to say, this was the most laid-back couple I’ve seen in a very long time! After a while they got their chairs out (in the turning circle, in the road, all making actual turning a tad awkward) and sat in front of the van waiting.

Shortly afterwards a white car with a sort of municipal-looking logo on the side pulled up, had a few quiet words with them and left without saying anything to us lot in the car spaces. The Brits slowly packed away their chairs and left, following another van which we assume was their mates. Later as we ambled back to Zagan from a walk, a space appeared in the official 20 spots. Quick! Although we’re sure we were fine where we were, we’re still a tad British about following the rules! I legged it to get the van while Ju waited at the space. Another van appeared in the distance and a couple of French camping-caristers who’d been standing around having a chat encouraged us to get in there sharpish! They told Ju they were sorry to hear about the Queen, nice fellas.

Out for a walk we used the QR code on the ‘parking regulated’ signs to check the rules. Come October the town allows motorhomes to use the hundreds of places by the sea front (as they had when we visited in 2018). Until then you can use the aire or anywhere other than a listed set of roads to stay overnight.

Back to today, we’ve shifted again, we’re now outside the Auchan hypermarket on the N42 near Bolougne (N50.734120, E1.674550). Our LPG bottles are brimmed, after a bit of a strange fill-up at a Total station which had sold out of all other fuels. No other cars or vans, just us in there. Ju reported the checkout lass looked bored stiff. We’ve used 17 litres in the almost-five weeks we’ve been here from our 34(ish) litre system. In summer, when we’re not using gas to heat the air, with a few nights on campsites using their showers and electricity, we’d probably last six weeks to a couple of months between fill-ups. In winter, in the deep cold of a ski resort with the heating on 24-7, maybe a week or so.

OK, we’re back, and we can report that this is indeed a hypermarket. It’s huge. It sells everything. We’re well stocked up for our journey home now!

From the Hypermarket we headed to another Total fuel station, queued for a bit and filled up with diesel at €1.65 a litre (£1.43). We’d have treated Zagan to Excellium again but they’d run out. As we left the station the cars were queuing on the pavement. We wonder what would happen if, say, Esso knocked 25p a litre off their fuel for a month? Chaos I guess? Anyway, another half hour drive up the free section of A16 motorway and boom, we’re here, back in the official motorhome parking at Sangatte (N50.941149, E1.741919).

We’ve been here a few times. It’s just a parking area, nothing special, but it’s all of 15 minutes from the ferry and Eurotunnel terminals. The beach is a few steps away, from where you can see England, and watch the myriad boats jossle for space on this narrow section of La Manche. If you fancy a longer walk or cycle you can head up to the sea-facing monument at Cap Blanc-Nez. Or maybe wander inland on the paths to explore the overgrown bunkers and craters from WW2.

Lots to do while you while away a few hours waiting your turn on the crossing back to Blighty. We’ve done all that on previous trips, so made do with a wander along the beach, and then popped the telly on to watch the Queen’s coffin being moved to Westminster to be laid in state. A saddening sight, but it makes us proud to see how our nation has reacted to her death, affording her much-due dignity and respect.

We’ll do a trip round-up when we’re home with some stats (costs etc). Once again, it’s been a ride!

Cheers, Jay