Overlooking the Lyngen Alps, Olderdalen, Norway
Zagan the motorhome has the calm waters of the Lyngenfjord, and the rugged spine of the heavily glaciated Lyngen Alps framed in his windscreen tonight. Parked on the quayside at Olderdalen, Jay and Richard are taking full advantage of the fishing opportunities (N69.60355, E20.52911).
Olderdalen Quayside
Last night at our beachside spot, we spent another wonderful evening watching the sun never set. A tad more subdued than the previous evening, we ate Thai curry that Jay had rustled up and washed it down with just a dash of wine and beer. We only lasted out until just after midnight before hitting the sack, falling asleep to the sound of people on the beach playing volleyball and watching the daylight continue. The full sun will only be above the horizon for another couple of days, after which it will start to set a little bit more each day, it will feel strange to experience night again.
Four go mad in the Midnight Sun
This morning we took a walk along the beach before breakfast, then once we were all fuelled up it was time to hit the road. No one wanted to leave our little bit of paradise, we could all have stopped another day, and another, and another, but we needed to move on. We saw the most magnificent midnight sun and Steinvik will always have very happy memories for us.
Saying yet another goodbye to Richard and Jenny, the goodbyes are getting a tad comedic now but one day it will be the real thing so we need to do it every time, we made tracks along the only road there is up here, the E6. We had five things on our ‘to do’ list for today:
- Empty the loo
- Empty the bin
- Fill up with water
- Buy some potatoes
- Find somewhere to sleep
We managed all five by 2pm and also threw in a drive through some stunning scenery. The first two were easy as all along the main roads here are rest/picnic areas with loos and bins. We found water at a Statoil petrol station – a hose by the door was marked in several languages for us. A trip into our first Rema 1000 supermarket (said to be one of the cheapest) had us wandering around for ages gawping at the prices.
Crash barriers are massively dented everywhere we have been so far
Soon they won’t need them, as they are building new tunnels to straighten out the roads
The fresh fruit and veg was expensive, but if you look around you find sweet peppers (25.90 NOK/kg) are almost half the price of normal peppers (59.90 NOK/kg) and loose spuds (22.90 NOK/kg) were cheaper than bagged ones (27.90 – 49.90 NOK/kg). Bread ranged from 6.90 NOK to over 40.10 NOK a loaf. Needless to say we were extra careful with what we bought, but there seemed to be no reasoning behind what was being charge. A tiny foil tray of dog meat was expensive, but a huge can of the stuff was 8.50 NOK. I can only think it has something to do with where the stuff has come from and some sort of taxes.
If you are thinking of coming to Norway, here’s a few more prices to give you an idea of what things cost, the hardest to swallow being the last two (to keep things simple, I’ve divided the NOK prices by 10 to give you a pound value):
- Large Onions x 4 £1.99
- Carrots £2.17 to £4.66 per kilo
- Loose Mushrooms £4.25 per kilo
- Iceberg Lettuce £2.09
- Salmon (Fresh) £18.90 to £24.60 per kilo
- Ham (Cheapest) £1.90 for 150g pack
- Eggs (Dozen) £3.99
- Bulmers Cider 568ml bottle £5.14
- Spitfire Beer Can 500ml £4.25
As the supermarket didn’t have a state run Vinmonopolet the only alcohol you could get was beer or cider. It was the strangest thing to see people opening six packs of beer and buying only one can, but at those prices I can see why.
The Lyngen Alps come into view
We made our way south along the east coast of the Lyngenfjord, and luckily for me Jay was driving today so I got to sit and stare at the mountains on the other coast. Reaching Olderdalen we pulled onto the quayside and Jay headed off to fish. Richard and Jenny arrived a short while later, originally planning to get the ferry from here today, they’ve opted to stay here tonight too. Richard wanted to give his newly purchased fishing rod a test – and test it he did, catching us a fantastic cod which Jay is cooking right now for our tea.
You can’t get a much better fishing view than that
Richard catches tonight’s tea
As the fjord is over 150km long, and with smaller fjords off it, to drive to Tromsø would be a long run. Instead we’re all hopping on the ferry tomorrow, which will cut down the journey massively. It will cost us 200 NOK for the first ferry (150 NOK for van under 6m and driver, plus 50 NOK for passenger), for Richard and Jenny it may cost considerably more as they are longer. For a 6 to 7m van plus passenger it’s 411 NOK, so they have their fingers crossed there aren’t any tape measures about.
Tomorrow’s ferry
Jay’s risotto is smelling fantastic, so I’m heading off to sit by the water and eat it. Norway is simply amazing us at every turn.
Ju x
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That is some very very beautiful scenery. I’m starting to think a visit to Norway must be added to the list.
Only been here a few days and the scenery is indeed of epic proportions. Said to get better as we head south too.
It just gets better.:-):-) As well as marker sticks, the armco is ‘nudged’ by the snow ploughs in winter, it’s how they stay on the road when there’s been a lot of snow and the distinction of the road has gone. Yeah, beer is a mad price, cans of Tuburg work out to be £5.50 per litre!!! Social engineering at its best. Kindest, Wayne
hi Jay, just wanted to ask a quick question, I’m looking at buying a Low Profile Motorhome (the type with a garage at rear sometimes under the bed) or a Hymer like yours…but I have an inflatable Kayak like you have and wondered do you have a garage or just use seat Storage cos I’m struggling with where to stow bikes ect on/in a Hymer…although bikes can go outside on a rack..plus all kayak stuff ect, anyways how do you manage to store stuff?, thanks, Marcus.
Note: looking to spend £16k – £30k …trying to keep cost down for buying van but will spend more to get what I want.
Hi Marcus
Zagan is on an Alko chassis with a double floor, and has full-width lockers between the floor accessible from both sides. We store big stuff under there, including the kayak bag. Big enough for skis or snowboards if you have ’em. We have an outside bike rack, but removed it for Norway as ferry prices double or triple if you’re over 6m. Double floor also has fresh and grey water tanks, which are heated when blown air heating running, so minus umpteen degrees not a problem in here (note to self: as long as you have hook-up and enough gas…).
Zagan cost £17,500 private sale including the accessories we fitted (LPG tanks, 4G Internet, SOG unit etc) and we expect he’ll keep going, with regular maintenance, for at least 10 more years. He’s 6m long but feels spacious inside as the bed’s drop down from above the cab, which works really very well for us (but then neither of us have a bad back).
Good luck with the hunt, cheers, Jay
By the way, most Rema 1000’s have free WiFi too, I’m using some now in Svolvear. Kindest Wayne.
Oooh, nice tip Wayne, we’ve some video to upload so could use it! We’re cutting across towards Tromso at the moment, should be there tomorrow. Cheers, Jay
Love you guys! I am absolutely loving reading your recent posts. So, so proud xxxxx
hi, thanks for that Jay, next time I look at a Hymer I will be looking at the floor and other storage spaces, been in quite a few now like yours but they have either been too old or too new not the correct layout ect, yes I remember reading about the great Deal you did buying your Hymer and that is why I have a wide buying price range, I already drive a Vivaro and the low profiles are really the same but with a longer wider pod with great storage, the Hymers like yours seem wide at the front and deep but I guess I’d get ued to it, having spoken to many, many, dealers ect the swan neck over cabs will not be for me as they all said they can make the van sway abit on motorways…I like them and they are a great idea for a fixed bed but not for me,…the British are quickly getting there act together and fast becoming High quality Low Profile builders but seem to just want to plop a full size cooker in?…however I still think that your Hymer style is still up there with the best and to me a German build is quality end of, thanks again, Marcus
Excellent that you are sharing some prices, I would take full pack of spitfire with me from Finland (3.25 e 500 ml bottle) :)
If you like a bottle or two of Spitty, and don’t want to have to take out a new mortgage, that would be a most excellent idea! Cheers, Jay