Lining up for the Kandahar, Chamonix

Zagan the motorhome has changed his name for the next couple of days to Mont Blanc View as he sits looking out over the wall of snow in a free parking space on the edge of Chamonix (N45.92827, E6.87674).

Last night we went for a stroll around Saint Gervais Les Bains, the streets were empty but the restaurants were packed. A couple of bars were busy with skiwear clad clients supping the local brew or a mulled wine, but overall it was a quiet scene, I think the place is more of a family resort. Either that or it was because we’re here during the school holidays?

Back in Zagan we discussed our plan of attack for getting somewhere to park so we can watch the Kandahar. Against the advice of the tourist office lady, we agreed to head over to Chamonix this afternoon to see if we can bag a space after the skiers have left for the day, but before the camping cars arrive for the weekend.

Charlie loves a lie in

This morning we all had a nice lie in, as we had nowhere to be. Around 11am I looked out and noticed the car park was packed and everyone was walking towards town, a vague memory in my head jumped to the fore – it’s market day. We do love a market day, only yesterday Jay had raised the question of whether food can be counted as ‘tourist tat’. After much discussion we agreed if it was bought from a local seller at a market and you couldn’t get it in the supermarket, then probably not. Armed with that agreement, I set off to buy some non-tat!!

The market sprawled along the main section of the town and you could smell it long before you could see it. The mouth-watering aroma of chickens roasting on the spit wafted on the breeze sending both Charlie and us crazy. We wandered around eyeing up the regional saucissons, cheeses, tourist tat and wigs! I got collared by a bloke selling sweets for an animal rescue charity, Jay was across the road with Charlie wondering if I needed to be rescued, but when I found out that a small tin of sweets was €30, I managed to rescue myself.

Market day in St Gervais les Bains

Unable to resist the chickens any longer we headed to the stall only to be told that we would need to reserve one and come back in half an hour to collect it when it was ready. We were more than happy to wait, and headed off for a walk to build up an appetite. On our way back to collect the chicken, the market crowds were thinning out, so I was able to get served at the busiest of the cheese stalls, acquiring us a round of Reblochon cheese.

Non-food, so therefore tourist tat, but still nice!

Biggest cheese round award went to this stall

This was the queue to order chickens – tasty chickens

Back in Zagan the chicken was devoured, the tasty gravy (if anyone knows the recipe, please let us have it) that had been spooned over it was mopped up with a day old baguette – there is no finer lunch. After an hour of electricity boost from the service point we set off for Chamonix – or Shamonicks Mont Blank as our satnav likes to call it. We’ve been in the mountains for a while now, but still get silly excited as we enter the valley to face the wall of mountains that is the Mont Blanc Massif.

Busy setting up for the Kandahar, seems parking will be a nightmare!

Hard to concentrate on the road with this in front of you

All the way here we were both hoping there would be space in the aire, and when we arrived our hopes were granted; there were over 500 spaces in it. We pulled up to the barrier and pressed the button, nothing happened. We tried again, still nothing. I jumped out and pressed the help button and after a few minutes it transpired that the aire is shut in the winter. We knew the services were, but we weren’t able to park their either. This put a slight spanner in our plans.

When we were here last time I remembered seeing motorhomes parked up along a road, and our top Chamonix contact Mandy came up trumps with directions for us. The only problem was the place was packed, so we parked further up the road to wait for a space to come free. A quick walk into the town reminded us why we loved it here last time, the town is so full of life and pretty much pedestrianised so easy to get around. Finding the tourist office the woman behind the counter gave us a wonderful shrug when we asked how long we could stop where we were. It must be hard for them to offer advice like that when we’re clearly parked next to a 24 hour limit sign.

Might want to rename it motorhome alley!

Not a bad view from the van

Back at Zagan we did a merry dance with a queue of traffic to get ourselves into a space in off-road parking, finally grabbing the end space with a view better than most of the hotels here. Out came the celebratory beers and chocolate liqueurs to fuel us up for another stroll into town later. The Kandahar takes place tomorrow and Saturday in the next resort down the valley, so we’re armed with a bus timetable and details of where to catch it – bring it on!

Ju x

Our current favourite afternoon snack – it warms you up from the inside out.