Heading west towards Lofoten Islands, Kvaefjord
Zagan the motorhome has had a visitor to his fjordside parking place (N68.44525, E16.00925). Wayne Deer, the reindeer popped by to say hello not long after we parked up (named by me, just winning over Rudy). He’s headed off elsewhere now, leaving us with just the amazing views out of the windscreen to entertain us!
At our previous kipping spot in Hamn i Senja we struck gold, a free parking place with amazing views, access to a washing machine and dryer (60 Nok) and a buffet lunch (195 Nok each). Sure, it was probably the most expensive buffet lunch we’ve ever eaten, even our wedding buffet cost less per head, but as we sat there eating plates so full that we had to use both hands to carry them from the buffet to the table, we were glad we did had. We like to eat out in every country we visit, but Norway was looking just too flipping expensive for our tastes and a Burger King doesn’t count as eating out. We’ve popped our Norway eating out cherry so the pressure is off and no doubt we’ll find somewhere else to eat, but for now we think we got quite good value – as we mentally totted up how much food and drink we’d consumed for the price.
Once the laundry was dry we set off in the rain for a couple of hours drive. This took us off Senja and back onto the mainland, which we both agreed was nowhere near as pretty. Only stopping once for a splash of diesel in Finnsnes, it really was a splash as we were filling up on Monday afternoon which is one of the most expensive fuel times in Norway, we ploughed along the E6 through showers and cloud.
Our stop for the night was in Fjordbotnmarka at a parking area in front of a hotel (N68.66275, E17.76393). Signs around us on the grass asked us not to urinate on it, but to use the loo in the hotel. Not sure if it was a money-making scheme as the loo in the hotel was 10 Nok, but we used our own loo, apart from Charlie who likes to defy signs about weeing. With low clouds around us and rain hammering on Zagan’s roof it was the darkest we’ve seen for a long time, but we still needed our eye masks. Still full from our buffet extravaganza we only managed a bowl of custard and a chocolate brownie each for tea before crawling into Zagan’s bed just after 10pm for some much needed sleep.
This morning we were awoken by a massive explosion, Jay peeped out of the curtains as we could hear the doors opening of the other vans in the parking area. We have no idea what it was but after passing loads of signs for a firing range, and roadworks that were for pylon work we weren’t too worried. The cloud had lifted and the view down into the valley was amazing.
After a quick pooch walk it was time to hit the road again. We’re doing a couple of long runs to get down to the Lofoten Islands, which everyone tells us are amazing. The reason we are in a bit of a rush is that the weather forecast for next week looks like rain, rain and more rain. So we’re hoping to see some of the place in a little bit of sunshine later this week.
I took the helm today and guided us to a Rema 1000 supermarket in Bjerkvik for a quick shop. Our basket seemed to have very little in it, but still came to around £40 – I’d expect a trolley full from Lidl for that. We picked up a huge bargain hunk of fresh salmon which was half price and will be chopped into pieces and shoved in the freezer, some crisps whose flavour we have no idea of, milk, cereal, fresh veggies, bread and a few other bits. Thoroughly disappointed by the pudding, cake and biscuit selections we settled for a pack of digestives and I’ll make us a raisin biscuit cake in the next few days, which is one of our favourites.
From Bjerkvik we took the north shore of the Ofotfjorden. Brown information signs stating ‘1940 Battle of Narvik‘ point to several lay-bys along the route, but none of them seem to have any information in them. I can only assume that the lay-bys offer a good view over the fjord where the battle between British and German destroyers took place. A little further along the coast we crossed the bridge over to Hinnøya island and the scenery went from beautiful to amazing once more.
After a couple of hours at the wheel I pulled into a picnic area to ‘de-tail’. As the line of cars drove past Charlie’s tummy rumbled so instead of pulling back out we decided to have lunch instead. We moved over to the patch of land across the road which sits next to the fjord and as I was mid-sandwich Wayne trotted by. Norway has the most amazing landscapes but I’ll always be fascinated by its wildlife first – from sea eagles and whales to reindeer we’ve been very privileged so far this trip. Even this little chap has entertained us this afternoon chirping away on a nearby telegraph pole.
Ju x
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Reckon it’s a Redshank 😀
Absolutely love the blog, using it as inspiration for when we take the plunge in the coming months and sell up to travel Europe full-time for a couple of years. Keep on keeping on! :)
Dave
P.S. Bit of a noob when it comes to birds but maybe a sandpiper of some sort?
loving the blog and love the pictures of Wayne. keep it up, you are making us wish we were there this year , not next year.
Sue and Ray
PS the internet access still appears to be good?
Yep, Internet access still good (as in we can always get it) but sometimes 2G only, so not fast. Not surprising, given some of the places we’re stopping. Here we have 2G, but there isn’t a house in sight and even the road is (almost) all tunnel, so no point the telcos putting up masts. Cheers, Jay
Avin a cloudy beer in Ljubljana and weather is very hot, will be in Venice later, all the best, Marcus
Fantastic, enjoy ’em both Marcus. Vertical rain at the end of a fjord here. Cheers, Jay
Love the blog! if you happen to be passing any more Rema 1000’s make sure you grab yourselves a skolbrod pastry – they were only 10nok each when we were up there a few weeks ago and they’re pretty filling – we also stocked up on cheap green pesto as apparently that’s the only cheap thing they sell in Norway! Hope you have/had an amazing time on the Lofoten Islands – we absolutely loved it :)
Keep up the good work, really enjoying your adventures,bird looks like a redshank.
John