6 reasons to slow travel the centre of France

Slow travel experts Andrew and Alison, who run the beautiful cheeseweb.eu website, contacted us with this cracking summary of the wonders of travelling central France by motorhome. These guys are Canadians but lived in Belgium for years, wandering Europe as time allowed. We swapped their story below for one we wrote about travelling Eastern Europe, which you can read here on their site. Cheers, Jay

France, the top tourist destination worldwide, has plenty of secrets left to reveal. Discover our six reasons you should visit the centre of France on your next vacation.

Recently, I learned France is the top tourist destination worldwide. It’s no wonder, with Paris, Normandy, and its sun-drenched Mediterranean coastline drawing people in from around the world. However, despite the tourism numbers, most of France remains undiscovered by all but a few tourists.

In the spring of 2015, after selling off everything we owned and buying a Pilote G630 (named Amelia, because Amelia Earhart was a pilot too), Alison, I, and our two cats found ourselves in the centre of France, quite literally. When we initially discussed travelling through France in our motorhome, as Canadians from the east coast, we were naturally drawn to the routes along the water. However, while researching our trip and discussing our plans with France’s tourism department, we discovered a huge opportunity to explore the country’s vast interior.

Mind your head! The centre of France has some fabulous drives along rivers, gorges, and through caves.

We’ve travelled in France for years. Living in Belgium since 2005, we’d day-tripped into and travelled all around the country, visiting Alsace, Paris, Normandy, Provence, the Pyrenees, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Champagne, Aquitaine, and more. However, the centre of the country – Centre-Val-de-Loire, Auvergne, Midi-Pyrenees – was always something we drove through to get somewhere else. We were not alone in our ignorance. Jump on any highway in the centre of France and you’ll see plenty of cars from Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, England, and beyond zipping along, heading south on holidays or heading north to home. In North America, we’d call this a fly-over state, except it’s not quite that big.

But when we slowed down and spent three months on the back roads of France’s interior, we discovered a whole new, wonderful world of postcard-perfect villages, breathtaking nature, and little-known attractions.

To inspire you to slow down and visit a different French landscape, here are six reasons you should visit the centre of France.

Reason #1: Spectacular Natural Beauty

The first reason you should visit the interior of France is the spectacular natural beauty found there. From the volcanoes of the Massif Centrale to the rolling hills of Centre-Val de Loire, from lazy rivers to deep gorges, the landscape of France’s interior is captivating. If you are interested in any outdoor activity – hiking, cycling, kayaking, climbing, paragliding, etc. – then the centre of France should be at the top of your list.

The Puys, a chain of volcanic mountains in central France, were a surprise to us.

The existence of volcanoes in France was a surprise to us and of course, we had to visit. If you are driving enthusiasts, consider a trip to the top of Puy Mary, France’s tallest volcano (inactive!), and taking a hike across the volcano’s peak. Puy is old French meaning an inactive volcano with a rounded profile and there are 80 of them in this area. The drive to the top of Puy Mary is beautiful with gorgeous views of the meadows and valleys below, but watch out for oncoming traffic as there are a few tight spots! Note: There are only three roads on this mountain and access for motorhomes alternates throughout the day. In the morning, only certain roads allow motorhomes to go up and in the afternoon the access switches to allow motorhomes down. Pay attention to the signs!

The views from the top of France’s tallest volcano were worth the trip up.

If you prefer a more relaxing journey to the top of a volcano, visit Puy-de-Dome where you can ride a train to the top. Until 2012, access to the top was by road, but the traffic got so bad the government reinstated a train service and closed the road. Now the ride to the top takes 20 minutes with zero stress and fabulous views on the left side (right side going down). You can also hike up Puy-de-Dome (1-1.5 hours) and then follow other trails to other smaller volcanoes nearby. For the adventurous, you can join a paragliding school that launches from the top of Puy-de-Dome and lands near the train station.

Visiting the Loire castles like Chateau de Chambord can be done by motorhome or by bike.

If you are a cycling enthusiast, then climbing some of these volcanoes on your bike might be appealing. For the more recreational cyclist, I recommend the Loire-à-Velo trails around Orléans. Orléans is just 100km south of Paris and sits alongside the Loire, France’s longest river. The Loire-à-Velo is a network of 800+ kilometres of cycling trails following the river and put together by the regional tourist office. In this part of France, the Loire River is quite flat, only dropping 2 metres over 200km, making a bicycle trip possible for even the most out of shape travellers. Stay in the municipal aire in La-Chapelle-Sainte-Mesmin (5€ per night including electricity and WiFi), then take your bike to discover Orléans and the castles along the Loire.

Reason #2: Fascinating Cities and Towns

Besides the natural highlights of France’s interior, there are numerous underrated cities and beautiful towns. The city of Le-Puy-en-Velay is famous for a small green lentil (ever heard of Puy lentils?), but it also has a fascinating history. Le Puy is one of four major cities in France on the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. Visit Le Puy’s Notre-Dame Cathedral in the morning for the daily blessing of the pilgrims and stick around to admire the beautiful architecture of this 12^th-century building.

Also in Le Puy is the Chapel of Saint-Michel d’Aighuilhe, perched at the top of a volcanic spire in the middle of the city. Climbing the 268 stairs is a workout, but you are rewarded with fantastic views over the city. Step inside the chapel to see some of the hand painted frescoes and escape the sun. From the top, you can see Notre-Dame cathedral and a couple more interesting landmarks atop mountains.

Climbing the 268 stairs to the Chapel of Saint-Michel d’Aighuilhe at the top of this basalt spire is worth it for the view alone.

Orléans is another underrated city with a rich history. During the Hundred Years’ War, Joan of Arc led a mission to relieve Orléans of an English siege. Nine days after Joan’s arrival, the siege was broken, and the remaining English withdrew. Today, you can find tributes to Joan of Arc, the “Maid of Orleans,” throughout the city, including a recreation of her house (the original was destroyed in WWII), statues, and other points of interest. Visit the city in early May and join a medieval festival in honour of Joan and the end of the siege.

Visit Orléans Cathedral to see the story of Joan of Arc in the stained glass.

The city is also home to fabulous architecture including Romanesque churches, beautiful half-timbered houses, and many examples of Renaissance design. Stroll the old medieval streets and stop in a square to enjoy a cup of coffee or glass of wine. Perfect!

Reason #3: Charming Villages

If cities are too busy for your taste, there is no shortage of charming villages in the centre of France. Step back in time by visiting Charroux in Auvergne, taste some locally made mustard and soak in the history of this medieval village. Or head to Lavaudieu and wander the old city streets.

Charroux is picturesque and deserves to be a part of France’s Plus Beaux Villages.

Cordes-sur-Ciel is a popular stop in France’s Tarn department. Perched at the top of a hill, Cordes-sur-Ciel seems to emerge out of the rocky outcrop. A motorhome aire (8€ per night) is found at the foot of the hill and is a perfect place from which to explore the town (try to get a shaded spot if possible). The hike to the top is challenging but well worth the effort, if only for the views over the Cérou River and valley.

One of the most spectacular villages we saw during our travels was Saint-Cirq-Lapopie. Clinging to the side of a rocky cliff above the Lot River, the town doesn’t look like it has changed in 500 years. It is one of the most picturesque villages we’ve seen and it just begs to be explored. Note: parking is only allowed in certain lots (car parks) around the town. Motorhomes should plan to arrive early and park at the Saint-Cirq-Lapopie beach. There are other parking lots should the beach lot be full, but they will cost between 4€ and 10€.

Reason #4: Delicious Local Food

It’s impossible to visit France and not be blown away by the food, especially the cheese! The Auvergne region boasts 5 AOP cheeses: Bleu d’Auvergne, Salers, Cantal, Fourme d’Ambert, and Saint Nectaire. Bleu d’Auvergne, arguably the most famous cheese of the region, is a creamy, mild blue you can find around Europe. Fourme d’Ambert is another mild blue cheese and possibly one of the oldest; Salers is an aged hard mountain cheese; Cantal is a milder hard cheese; and Saint Nectaire is a creamy cheese, like Brie, but with a harder rind. Our recommendation is to visit La Grange de la Haute-Vallée, see the happy cows in their verdant green pastures, and sample all of the cheeses. I guarantee you won’t leave empty handed!

Amelia parked outside La Grange de la Haute Vallee while we toured the farm and sampled the cheese.

There are also plenty of local markets. You will be hard pressed to avoid running into a market during your travels. We highly recommend the market in Thiviers, renowned for foie gras. Pick up some local cheese, a bit of bread, and have yourself a picnic on the side of the road overlooking the rolling hills in the area.

Visiting markets allow us to buy all sorts of fresh produce and other local specialities.

For the more adventurous, you can also try foraging for your lunch. There are lots of edible plants in the forests of Auvergne and foraging is a common practice. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, we highly recommend you find a guide to ensure you eat the right things!

Reason #5: Unique Overnight Stops

Aires around towns are generally pretty basic: a level spot with access to a service point. Normally that’s all you need. However, sometimes it is fun to have a bit more of an adventure. For instance, why not stay at a Bison farm? Part of the France Passion program, Bisons de Poitou, is a rural stay alongside fields full of an animal you didn’t expect to find in France. Or stay at La Ferme de Turnac foie gras farm and learn about the care and attention they put into raising their ducks and geese.

France Passion farm stays are a great way to meet local producers and enjoy unique overnight camping.

If you are looking for comfortable and interesting aires, there are plenty of them in the centre. The municipal aire outside Orléans in La-Chapelle-Sainte-Mesmin was a pleasant surprise even with a 5€ per night charge. One of our favourite overnights was camping beside the Lot River in Bouziès, around the corner from Saint Cirq Lapopie. Note: there is a bridge over the Lot to Bouziès, but it is almost impossible for a motorhome. Continue along the river and take the road past Saint Cirq Lapopie to get to Bouziès. The drive is longer, but you are rewarded with a great view looking down on the Lot River.

Another great aire was in Neussargues-Moissac, which provided excellent free WiFi. The WiFi was so good; we stayed here twice during our travels in the area. It was also down the road from La Grange de la Haute-Vallée, so it was convenient for enjoying some of the delicious cheeses of Auvergne. High-speed WiFi and fabulous local cheeses, what else do you need?

This free Aire in Neussargues-Moissac had high-speed WiFi so we stopped here twice.

Reason #6: Fewer tourists, more locals

Paris, Normandy, and Provence are arguably the top tourist destinations meaning the centre of France is off the beaten path for the vast majority of visitors. In our travels through the interior, we rarely met non-French tourists, and even the French tourists were few in most places. This gave us time to interact with locals, ask questions, and develop a deeper connection before moving on. Although the interior will be busier at the height of summer, it will be nothing like the coastline. Plus, with the interior being so large, if you find your current location crowded, simply move on.

I realise for people with only a few weeks of vacation, visiting less popular destinations seems like a gamble. But think about it. If the point of travelling is to give us a fresh perspective and to change the rhythm of our busy lives, then a frenetic, demanding ‘vacation’ will leave you less relaxed than before you left. Travelling is one of the few situations where the phrase “less is more” makes sense.

Off the beaten path locations challenge us, forcing us to find beauty and create connections where few have travelled. We took up motorhoming because we believe there are stories to be found everywhere, not just at the big tourist destinations. What we discovered in the centre of France were thousands of stories begging to be told. We spent almost three months travelling in France and only scratched the surface. It is a country with so much history, culture, and food you could spend years slowly travelling around and still have more to experience.