Uppertown Farm Camping, by Carsington Water in the Derbyshire Dales

Zagan the motorhome’s just moved pitches, to a beautifully flat spot at the top of ‘the sloping field’ as the farmer who owns Uppertown Farm campsite accurately describes it (N53.061579, W1.648662)! We’ve a wonderful view of the grass-backed stone dam holding back Carsington Water as it strains to rush off down the valley, and being level after a few days on a wonk has improved the view even more. The dales around us are flush with green, the trees fat with summer leaves and the fields are being lazily grazed by roving sheep and cows.

Motorhomes in the 'Sloping Field' at Uppertown Farm Campsite, Carsington Waters, Derbyshire Dales
The ‘Sloping Field’ at Uppertown Farm Campsite, Carsington Waters, Derbyshire Dales

It’s Sunday now, our third day here, and we’re heading off tomorrow. The blazing sunshine of the past couple of days has receded and the Factor 50’s been put away. We’re on Uppertown Farm campsite, just a short walk from the Severn Trent visitor’s centre at the water’s edge. There are no facilities here other than an Elsan point and fresh water, no shower block or bins even. That keeps the price of a pitch low, a mere £8.50 a night even in August, and the pitches were full on Sat and Sun (there’s plenty of space Sunday evening though). Despite us all being 7m or so apart, there are still around 30 or 40 campervans, caravans, tents (with loo tents) and motorhomes on the site’s two main fields, plus a similar number of caravans on the rally field opposite.

Cooking on a 'wonk' using a piece of wood to level off the gas hob (don't try this at home folks)!
Cooking on a ‘wonk’ using a piece of wood to level off the gas hob (don’t try this at home folks)!

We know this place, as we’ve been here a few times before. It’s an easy (pretty wide roads, no wing mirror risks!) 40 minute drive from home, but it could be a world away. At home we live in a small part of the house which is half buried in the earth due to the slope our street rests on. It’s a haven for a few weeks or even months at a time, but it was no view other than of a concrete yard and high walls, and it feels like the lock-down’s taken a slow toll on our mental health as a result. Feeling grass under our toes, the wind flowing over our skin and being able to take in expansive views of countryside, like we had in Edale, is again a relief.

Here on the campsite there’s been a single group of people sat together enjoying a BBQ and drinks while the rest of us sat besides our vans, conversation stilted by the fact we’re all nervous of being approached. Maybe that’s no different to normal, I’m not sure I can remember! At the visitor’s centre there are a few large families sat picnicking in groups, and the path over the dam is pretty busy with people, but other than that everyone’s spread out. On the 7 mile-ish walk/run/cycle path around the lake 2m distancing is difficult in places, but few folks are worrying too about it much, some stepping aside with lots of ‘thank yous’ and smiles being shared. We’re all outdoors, and no-one is wearing a mask.

On the one hand: 50% off, go out and eat out to help out! On the other: no group gatherings allowed! Conflicting messages seem to have become the norm in the new norm.
On the one hand: 50% off, go out and eat out to help out! On the other: no group gatherings allowed! Conflicting messages seem to have become the norm in the new norm.

In terms of things to do here, the main attractions are:

  • The circular route around the lake (there are various off-shoots you can follow which extend the minimum distance). You can cycle, walk or run it. We’ve both run it twice, and walked it once, taking in the lovely old villages of Hopton and Carsington on the way, well worth a detour.
  • The watersports centre and sailing club. Various sports and lessons are on the go at different times.
  • The visitor’s centre, describing how the dam was built, where the water goes and how it’s recycled once used.
  • Shops and a cafe around the visitor’s centre, plus permanent BBQs set up alongside which families are using to cook lunch.
  • Pubs in the nearby villages, offering food and drink. The nearest to the site is The Knockerdown Inn, which has its own campsite too, but Ju and I happened across The 17th Century Red Lion Inn, about a mile walk away across the fields at Hognaston. The Miner’s Arms at Carsington is also open and looked to have serious COVID-19 precautions in place.

We came across The Red Lion on a ramble and found it to be beautifully devoid of people Friday lunchtime, so we (I) casually flopped down at a table sat alone in a small field at the back. Ju went and signed in, sanitised her hands, ordered food and picked up some drinks inside, where there were only two other people, and came to join me. When we left she had to nip back in and sign out again, job done.

The Red Lion Inn at Hognaston
The Red Lion Inn at Hognaston
First time we’ve eaten out in, erm, about 5 months?
Runner on the dam at Carsington Water.
If you get out early enough, the dam’s pretty much empty!
The track around Carsington Water with a dire warning to cyclists taking the descent too quickly!
The track around Carsington Water with a dire warning to cyclists taking the descent too quickly!

We’ve also been treated to a visit by David and Carrie, also known in climbing circles as Jingo Wobbly. We had the good fortune to bump into them at Bourg-Saint-Maurice in the French Alps, sadly at the point we had to have Charlie put down, so our moods were low. They’re a fascinating couple, not least because of the enormous effort they put into researching, writing and publishing a series of climbing guides (see above link) and spend months in France climbing and photographing cliffs before returning home to spend more months collating the information into books. They happened to be in Derbyshire just a short drive away while we were here and nipped over for a walk and a chat, a meeting which has lifted our spirits, they’re an inspirational couple.

One of the bird hides at Carsington which is now open - there are signs liberally spread reminding you to social distance.
One of the bird hides at Carsington which is now open – there are signs liberally spread reminding you to social distance.

Our thoughts are gradually turning to our future, to what comes next. The world of running is still in stasis, but is showing furtive signs of coming alive. Our club is meeting in groups of six for training sessions, and a few events here and there are receiving race licenses, having modified how they operate to keep coronavirus transmission risks down. We’ve both signed up for the Boston (UK) half marathon which is looking like it might go ahead in mid Sept, a low-key event which could be one of the first post-lockdown to take place in the UK. The popular ParkRun movement has also published guidelines for how their weekly timed 5km run/walks might start up again, although there are no timescales for when any of them might happen. I’ve read about the odd race happening in the US, all small with fields well spread out. Only time will tell what happens next.

Gandalf getting a tad frisky, perhaps thinking he’s stroking his dragon?

I’m starting to get itchy feet to head to France for a few weeks, and maybe further afield in the winter (in the motorhome, not flying). The pandemic seems to have revived a need to travel in me, the old ‘you don’t know what you got ’til it’s gone’ sensation. Ju isn’t quite sure yet though, and if we did go to France before the half marathon there’s a chance 14 day quarantine will be introduced meaning we’ll miss the Boston event even if it does happen. We’ve a few bits of bobs on this week though, so we’ll get them done and see where we stand at that point – it’ll be either France or back out into the campsites of Britain I guess, neither of ’em bad places to be!

Cheers, Jay

10 replies
  1. Valérie says:

    Hello
    I understand you’re feeling the need to move but, if I was you, I would wait at least after the Boston run. I’m in France and the situation is not great. Numbers of COVID is on the up again and the government is threatening people to lock down again if they continue to not follow the rules.
    I hope it won’t come back to that again and understand that some part of the country are worse than others but I would hate for you to have an other emergency trip back to the UK. I’m sure you can find lots of places in the UK to tell us about and discover. A bientôt 👋

    Reply
    • Jason says:

      Thank you for getting in touch Valerie and letting us know what it is like there. In the UK we only see information from the newspapers where the headlines screamed about France quarantine, but if you look at the details or Government sites it is not the case – yet! We are still undecided, but if we do pop over to France we’ll be staying within a days drive of Calais and keeping an eye on the news.

      Reply
  2. Peter says:

    Hi Ju and Jason,
    It’s Grim Up North Running website have a number of races scheduled from September, well worth a look.

    Reply
  3. Colin says:

    As you guys did, I to got caught up in France in a mad dash back to port at the start of the pandemic.

    Ever the optimist I booked a ferry to sail once again to that beautiful country, via the Plymouth to Roscoff route somewhat encouraged by the messages from our government.

    Just a few days later the advice had changed and I was facing the prospect of another dash home.

    I decided to stay, currently I am with friends close to the Pyrenees.

    Facing quarantine is not something I look forward to but a price worth paying for everyone’s safety on my return.

    Traveling is doing my mental health the world of good after months of staying home, of course there is the ongoing anxiety about the pandemic but I view this as something we have to manage as it is likely to be this way for sometime to come.

    Personal responsibility is key to enjoying our lifestyle in or out of this current situation. With common sense and thoughtfulness for our fellow travellers and the host population, we can still all enjoy our freedom.

    There has been a friendly atmosphere on all of the Aires that I have visited over the last few days on my journey south and I have enjoyed suitably distanced conversations.

    Finally, I must mention that Brittany ferries were extremely well organised providing a safe as possible an environment in which to travel.

    Thank you for your posts, I always look forward to reading them as I value your honest thoughts on life both in and out of a Motorhome.

    Kind regards from Colin

    Reply
    • Jason says:

      Thanks Colin, we’d have done the same I think if we were already over there. I’m starting to miss my freedom now. Appreciate the info and update, all sounds positive, take it easy, Jay

      Reply
    • Jason says:

      Haha! It’s a rather fetching field! Gone a little damp this morning mind you. Cheers, happy travels guys, Jay

      Reply

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