Sunshine returns in Eggum

Zagan the motorhome has a windscreen full of deep blue sea and a backside protected by a wall of rocks, as he looks out from his parking place in Eggum on Vestvågøy, in the Lofoten Islands (N68.30728, E13.65127).

Bobil (motorhome) parking in Eggum

Our plan to escape the worst of the weather on a campsite seems to have worked. Today we only had one short shower of rain as we drove across a bridge over sea greener than an Olympic diving pool. The landscape around here wouldn’t look out of place on a tropical island; white sands, azure (if cold) water, green slopes and brooding rock faces. Jay said earlier that after watching the latest series of Game of Thrones he wouldn’t be surprised if a dragon flew over us; it’s that type of mythical landscape.

Arriving at Eggum we drove straight past the multi-hued wooden houses in the village to a tower of stones on a headland. The tower was built by the Germans during the war and housed a petrol driven radar, now it marks the start of the Eggum nature reserve. After being cooped up in Zagan for a few days, it felt wonderful to get out and stretch our legs.

Proper leg stretch

Roads around the Lofoten islands are strange. The main artery, the E10 is a single carriageway road which winds its way across the islands letting you reach dizzy heights of 80 Kph (about 50mph), but generally restricted to 60kph (just under 40mph). Branching off the E10 are smaller roads, many single track with passing places each going to small fishing village. Several of them end at the fishing village and from there is a hike to the next village along the coast. In the case of Eggum, you can drive here then hike 7km to Unstad. To drive to Unstad you would have to retrace your tyre tracks back to the E10 and take the next road off it on your right, a 25km drive.

As if the scenery wasn’t enough, the Lofotens are dotted with great pieces of artwork. This head is only a head from certain angles.

I’m actually quite glad there isn’t a road between Eggum and Unstad. We wandered along the path with the sea to one side and mountains and freshwater lakes on the other. As the sun peeped out from behind the clouds the landscape lit up in a range of vivid colours – blue water and blue bells, shocking pink lupins and the greenest ground I’ve ever seen – I’d say grass but most of it is moss.

Charlie can hardly keep his eyes open now, and I’m going to sit and look out to sea for a while and nose as other motorhomes join us in the little parking. Tonight will be our first chance to watch the sun set for a long time, but I’m not sure if it will totally disappear, or if a little bit will still peep over the horizon and we’ll have a nightlong display of colour. I can’t wait.

Jay and Charlie having a rest and admiring the view

Ju x

PS – Bonus Photo

After eating many tins with pictures of cows, sheep, pigs and chickens on them we’re a tad dubious about what this flesh-coloured spread is made of!

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