Ski Resorts in Summer – Chamrousse and Auris en Oisans, France
Zagan the motorhome has the most amazing view out of his windscreen, looking out along the Gorges de l’Infernet he’s in the motorhome aire at the ski village of Auris en Oisans – La Station (N45.05170, E6.07832), I’ll come back to why the La Station bit is so important later.
With a break in the rain, we left Grenoble swinging by a Lidl en route to stock up. A €70 trolley-full later, and that was with only a couple of bottles of wine, Zagan’s fridge was full, his cupboards ready to burst and we were set for some time in the mountains. We’ve stayed in ski resorts out of season before, so we knew to expect there to be little going on, and even less open. What we didn’t expect was to be plunged into a world of sensory deprivation.
As we climbed up the hairpin bends above Grenoble, we made our way up into the clouds and never left. Ignoring Satnav’s pleas for us to take her short cut along a road which had several ‘don’t even think about it’ signs, re-enforced by the narrowness of the line depicting the road on my map and the three chevrons letting me know it was a steep up hill, we stuck to the main road. Safely reaching the aire at Chamrousse 1650 Le Rincoin (N45.12647, E5.87335) we were greeted with a vast parking area with a section marked out for motorhomes. Part of the reason we came up here was to keep Charlie cool, but soon we were fitting the silver screens to insulate Zagan and putting the heating on.
For the next couple of days we watched the cloud blow around us, sometimes lifting enough to show the green grass of the bottom of the slopes and a tantalising glimpse of the chairlift going off into the whiteness. Sadly most of the time it was so dense that we couldn’t even see the coaches in the middle of the car park. Reading a brochure from the tourist office the town is celebrating 50 years since it hosted part of the 1968 Olympics, a quote jumped out at me – ‘If one had to choose a single image from the 1968 Grenoble Winter Olympics, it would be that of Jean-Claude Killy emerging from the thick fog...’, so it looks like it’s a common weather phenomenon around here.
In spite of the weather Jay made it out for a run while we were up there. He stuck to the empty roads so he couldn’t get lost in the clouds, which kept him cool by soaking his hair and clothes as he ran. I took a walk over to the main part of the town, which strangely wasn’t as cloudy, but sadly was pretty much shut.
There were a few coachload’s of French school children hiking around the hills and ski runs, and having a banging party on Thursday night. Even closed and covered in cloud, it’s still a pretty amazing resource to have on your doorstep.
Got to see my first marmot of the trip, sadly it was in not position to run and hide
Leaving behind Chamrousse, we wound our way back down the mountain ignoring more satnav suggested short cuts and picked up the D1091 which took us through the wide Gorges de la Romanche. Criss-crossing the river we drove around a bend and suddenly got our first glimpse of The Alps. Hanging from the sky like a painting, my mind struggles to accept that they are really there, while my spine feels a shiver of excitement.
There were two road options to get to the resort we were aiming for, and having read the reviews on Park4night we took their advice and avoided the D211. Easier said than done as there are several D211’s in the area, but we correctly presumed it was the one depicted without red and white dots on the map meaning ‘dangerous’. Yes we have learned from our accidental drive through the Gorges de la Bourne!
Narrow we could do, but sinuous – now that should be avoided!
The main road was bum squeaky enough, winding its way up the rocky side of the gorge. offing some amazing views. We turned off for the drive up to Auris which on our map is about halfway up a 16km wigglie road, nestled between the ski resorts of Alpe-d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes (which I always get confused). Looking up above us as we drove I could see a ski resort and assumed it was Alpe-d’Huez as it was so high above us. After about half an hour of driving up and around the hairpin bends it dawned on me that Auris is the area made up of lots of little hamlets. Why was knowing we were going to La Station so important? Because on our map it’s right at the top of the road and further than we thought we would be going.
Spot Zagan. Clue – he’s on the left!
Parking up we went from sensory deprivation to overload as we were greeted with the most amazing view. Again we had the place to ourselves, so out came the awning and chairs and we just sat and stared out over the mountains. The ski resort of Les Deux Alpes is visible across the valley and the lifts from the village we are in link to Alpe-d’Huez over the hill behind us. The aire here costs €5 a day (plus tourist tax of around €1 a person) and that includes services and electricity. In the winter you can stay for a week for €30, a month for €100 or a season for €300 – now that is tempting.
Gratuitous camping behaviour in an aire!
While Jay cooked up some jacket potatoes in our remoska
– we do love an aire with electricity – I went to the Tourist Office to pay for our stay, only to find it was shut. Not just for lunch but for the weekend, this was Friday afternoon. Walking around the rest of the resort it soon became clear that everything was also closed, everything apart from one hotel with a restaurant. The only people around were workmen getting the resort ready to open for summer in about three weeks time. It’s a good job we stocked up at Lidl.
At night we sat outside until the sun set on Zagan, which is around 5pm as we’re facing East and have a hill behind us. We ate tea looking out across the valley, the view is mesmerising – you can even see the water as it flows down a waterfall miles away. As we went to bed last night it was totally silent, apart from Charlie snoring.
This morning I woke as the sun rose making Zagan ting with delight as it warmed him up. I nipped outside to find we were above the clouds, enjoying our own view of the mountains before the rest of the valley could see them. It didn’t last long, as the clouds rose and enveloped us for a couple of hours, before the sun burned them off for another glorious day (the weather forecast said rain and thunderstorms – we’ve learned not to trust them around mountains).
Jay has less than three weeks until his half marathon in Zermatt, so as soon as the cloud lifted enough for him to see the walking trails he set off to run around Signal de l’Homme the hill that sits next to the resort (although at 2176m high its a mountain). I’m so proud of all the hard work he has put into his training, he’s even lost more than Charlie in weight – and pampered pooch is on the large size these days. Just under two and a half hours later he had run a half marathon around the hill/mountain at altitudes from 1650m upwards, which is what he’ll be doing in Zermatt, but instead of running around the mountain, he’ll be running up it!
Camel pack for water and free hat from the Tour de France for head protection – Jay looks every part the mountain runner!
Tonight we’re heading for the only open restaurant in town to treat ourselves to a raclette. It’s a mountain speciality of melted cheese, last time we had one we were in the ski resort of Praz de Lys, surrounded by snow and ice. We managed to polish off all the cheese wheel – a feat we are most proud of. As Jay is in training I may have to eat more than my fair share tonight – but it’s a sacrifice I am willing to make.
Have a great weekend.
Ju x
Oh my goodness! That view fro your camping chairs!!!
I had cancelled our trip to Bourg D’Oisans (because I’m too fat to cycle the climbs right now) but I may need to get my camera gear to that spot.
Damn you (but in a nice way) We’ll see, life is getting less in the way so it looks like we may grab a last minute Eurotunnel crossing in exactly 2 weeks!!
Lee at Go Humberto!
2 weeks to go, sweet! Sat watching traffic on the Col de Galibier at the moment. More motorbikes than push bikes, but it is a sunny Sunday so bound to be tons of bikers about. Quite an incredible place to be. Cheers, Jay
I think these must be the best views I’ve seen so far on your blog. We are in t’motorhome on a site at top of the hill in St Ives but nothing like your views !
Hi Gang if ypu str over that way get yourselves to Barcelonette and the mountain drive to Cineo through the Col de Magdalena. Jules you will see Marmits and the towns are lovely. Demonte enroute is vey old and there is a lovely family run and cheap restaurant on route which cooks sone amazing food. We had a kind if mutton stew and the flavours were amazing. I will try and find tbe gps if you are interested please let me kbow
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Hi Ali
Pretty sure we went that way on our first year out. I remember Barcelonette and seeing many marmots. We’ve got a rough route worked out to take us towards Zermatt for Jay’s run, but thanks for the tip, we might do that route again some day and try out the restaurant.
Cheers Ju
Excellent Ju (as always) For 20 mins I was there too instead of being marooned on the settee ! You chaps are very easy on the eye as in readable 😉 Good luck to Jay for his run. I vaguely remember that activity.
Best, GlorYa x
Stunning scenery. I much prefer places when they are really quiet so this seems like the ideal spot
Fabulous views, reminds me of being there one winter skiing. The views as breaktaking. Loving your travel posts. Enjoy the views and the peace and quiet. Good luck with the training, not long until Zermatt calls.
I promised jay a slap a few years ago giving the wife silly ideas of selling up and running away in a campervan!She got her wish and we are 2 months into an 8 month trip.Now looking at your photos ive got to drive from Nantes to the mountains! You have a lot to answer for! I will find you!!
Quick, no more GPS co-ordinates Ju!!! We’re being hunted! :-) What can I say – the big mountains are one of my favourite places, pure natural beauty. The roads through them generally scare the monkeys out of me for a few days until I get used to them, then they’re demoted to just ‘scary’. Hope you’re enjoying your time on the road Paul, cheers, Jay
Love the photo when you are above the clouds!