Parque Natural Sierra Maria – Los Velez, Spain
Zagan the motorhome is tinging as the sunshine beats down on his metal body. He’s parked at the free aire in the town of Velez Rubio (N37.65221, W2.07407) in Andalucia, Spain. We’ve been here before, several years ago in Zagan’s predecessor Dave, to visit friends of my Father. Bob and Pauline opened up their home to us and made us feel very welcome. They even looked after Charlie and lent us their car so we could take a look around the local towns without worrying about the narrow streets.
As we’d already had a look around Velez Rubio and Velez Blanco a little way further up the mountain road, we pushed on to a campsite our friends Mike and Victoria (who we met in Peniscola) had recommended. The campsite is 7km from the nearest town and in the Parque Natural Sierra Maria – Los Velez, so we made sure we stocked up at a supermarket before we got there.
Arriving at the entrance barrier for Camping Sierra Maria (N37.70952, W2.23752), a Dutch registered motorhome that we’d seen parked in the nearest village pulled in behind us. I joined up with Richie from Scotland and Rina from Holland (who has a great Dutch/Scot mixed accent) as we went in search of the receptionist. Once we were all checked in, the sun was high in the sky, so it was time to get the mat down, chairs and table out and relax.
The campsite was around 1100m above sea level, so when the sun set the temperature started to drop – quickly. From sweating in shorts and t-shirts during the day, everywhere was covered in frost by the morning as it fell to -5°C overnight. As the campsite took our ACSI discount card, the cost of the pitch (€18) included electricity. Normally if we’re somewhere cold, we use our gas heating to keep the van toasty throughout. As we we had electric hook-up, to save gas we used our electric fan heater to keep the van warm instead.
We also left the boiler on overnight for the water only (which uses much less gas) so it didn’t dump the water due to the extreme cold. We used a shoe to keep the bathroom door open, otherwise the heat doesn’t reach in there and it stays chilly. Needless to say we were toasty warm every night.
The good thing about being on a campsite that gets really cold overnight: you can have a long lie-in while the world around you defrosts. Once temperatures were above freezing, Jay set off for a run up to the highest peak in the Sierra, while I set off for a more gentle run around some of the numerous hiking paths in the park. Rina was just on her way out for a run too when I set off, so we joined up and chatted our way around for 5k (about 3 miles) – it was lovely to have company once again on a run. I’ve no idea where we went, but by some miracle we ended up back at the campsite, and I was navigating!
After a few days of running, walking, relaxing, and a huge cracking meal in the campsite restaurant – deep fried aubergene with honey, pig’s cheeks, lamb stew with potatoes and a drink each for €26 – we were ready to move on. Richie and Rina had left the day before for some nighttime warmth, but we weren’t sure where to go. We needed to drive back to Velez Rubio to pick up the free motorway which continues West and we knew there was a free aire there from our previous visit, so today’s drive took us less than half an hour.
The clincher was the fact that Saturday is market day in Velez Rubio. We had a quick wander around the town – spotting the restaurant where we ate in 2012 overlooking the Parish church. Then, while Jay waited in the sunshine, I headed into the weekly market which has been going since 1804 – though I suspect what is on sale may have changed a bit since then. I picked up some fruit and veg for us, unable to resist some more oranges. The trees are heavy with them and they are selling in the market, complete with leaves so you know they are fresh, for 0.75c a kilo.
I tried unsuccessfully to get some cash out using our Caxton Card. Of the two cash points I tried one said in Spanish (cheeky as everything else was in English) it would charge a commission but didn’t say how much. The Santander cash machine said in English it would charge €5! I only wanted €100, that is some commission. A few days back I was charged €1.50 for taking out cash, the machine hadn’t said it would charge, or if it did I didn’t see it. The reason we have a Caxton card is so we don’t get charged a fee for taking money out at ATMs, which means we can take out small amounts. It’s not Caxton making the charges, it’s the banks. So I’ll try a few more until I find one that is fee free – I know they are out there!
We headed back to Zagan to find several other motorhomes in the aire, so we have some company for the night which is always nice. We’re parked between two olive trees which still have loads of black olives on them. The local birds are taking full advantage of them, so Zagan is filled with bird song (one of which sounds a bit like R2-D2!), it made me realise how silent it was at the campsite. This could have been due to the numerous griffin vultures patrolling the skies above us. Where we were deprived of sound up there, the lack of light around us made for a truly amazing view of the stars and passing satellites. Right, it’s time to get the maps out and decide where to head next, and maybe nip out later to see what Saturday night is like in Velez Rubio.
Ju x
Update – We have found a bank that doesn’t charge for withdrawals (yet!), hurrah for Caixabank. Here’s me at the cashpoint so you know which logo to look for. If anyone knows of any others, please leave a comment and let me know. 
Hi J&J sounds like your getting around and enjoying again.
We sold up and went back to the UK but we bought a caravan and parked up at Los Gallardos just outside of Mojacar. We’re here for 3 months, loving every minute, especially this time of year xx
Hi Pauline.
Great to hear from you. Dad mentioned a while ago that you were back in the UK or we would have been in touch as we were passing your front door! Great to hear you’re getting the best of both worlds by having the place in Los Gallardos too, a bit closer to the golf for Bob!
Ju x
We’re currently in Punta Prima, an area we visit most years. This year is the first we have been charged a 5Euro fee for drawing cash from an ATM. That was also Santander. Talking to a friend who lives in Spain it is usual for ATMs to charge unless you use one from your own bank!! Not easy for us Brits wanting to use a Barclaycard. Let us know if you find one that doesn’t charge.
So far we have only found Caixabank that don’t charge. We’re heading for one now to make sure that is still the case!
Update – yes Caixabank is charge free at the moment.
Really good to read your posts, I use a Caxton card, but also have a revolut card as the rates tend to be better. The only downside to revolut is limited cash withdrawals a month. However, we pay most expenses by card and manage quite well. Enjoy your travels.
We were in Spain until Christmas and used a Barclaycard Platinum for our free cash withdrawals. I also believe you can do the same with a Halifax Clarity Credit Card. I know they don’t charge but, cannot not sure if some ATMs in Spain have started to charge since Christmas.
Keep us posted
Heather
Hi Heather. We have a Halifax card and it does offer free withdrawals at ATMs but it charges interest on any cash you take out.
Cheers Julie
Hi Julie, That’s why we use the Barclaycard Platinium. It has free withdrawals and in our latest 3 month tour of Spain, was never asked to pay a withdrawal fee at any ATM. It is also interest free, provided you pay it off in full when you receive you monthly statement.
I agree the Halifax does charge you interest from the day of any cash withdrawal, but you have the option to log into your account later that day and paying it off. A bit more effort, but might be an option.
Heather