Chateau Chenonceau, Chenonceaux

Team Zagan have been woken early (before our alarm that is) by the sound of the trains running just a few metres from our sleeping spot at Chenonceaux (N47.33051, E1.06861). We’ve all got thick heads this morning after a great evening with new friends.

We decided to stay an extra day in Chateaudun, just in case the Moule Mariniere Jay rustled up on Friday night poisoned us all; we needn’t have worried though as it was very tasty. The filming we did in Glasgow needed pulling together into a short video. As it was a Saturday and most places would be packed we stayed put and worked instead, squeezing in a walk around the river banks at lunchtime and a jog in the evening. Both nights we were there the aire was packed and the majority of vans were British. However as it was cold their owners stayed holed up inside, so sadly we only got to talk to one chap -Steve – who was on his way to Greece via Switzerland and Italy for some sun.

Sunday morning the sun was shining so we packed everything away and headed south towards the Loire (not to be confused with the Loir where we were staying), but first we’d had a top tip we needed to investigate. ‘Baz on the South coast’ got in touch and told us that sitting just east of Chateaudun are a load of old French Airforce planes out in the open at an airbase. He gave us the roads we needed to take to circuit the base and so off we went for a little rule-bending adventure – the rule being the huge no photography signs all around the place!

As explained by Baz, an aircraft taking off tells us we’re at the right place!

In plain view by the roadside (with a little help from our zoom) the planes lined up on show. We only later spotted some of them were screened off – these must be the top, top secret ones.

We set the satnav for Chateau Chenonceau as this was the number one thing to see in the Loire valley according to people on trip advisor and as we’d seen the Cathedral at Chartres, number two on the list, we felt if we only see one chateau, this needed to be the one.

We’re a bit low on LPG, we have quarter of our big tank left but don’t want to run out, so all the way down to Chenonceaux my eyes were peeled for a petrol station selling it, we finally found one and pulled in only to discover that the GPL (as they call it) part isn’t open on Sundays, in fact not much is so we stopped looking and concentrated on the views. Wide open fields of browns and greens surrounded by orange, red and yellow leaved trees – autumn is here.

We crossed the Loire near Amboise, spotting our first Loire Chateau on its banks in the distance. The chateau we were heading for isn’t on the Loire, it is on the Cher which is a tributary for the Loire but we don’t mind technicalities like that!

As we arrived in Chenonceaux we avoided the signs for the chateau motorhome parking as that is only open from 9am to 9pm, instead we parked about 50 metres closer to the train line in a spot that is listed as an overnight parking. This means we are only about 10 metres from the train lines, but they stopped running at 10pm.

We had originally planned to stay the night and visit the chateau first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds, however as the day grew overcast we opted to brave the Sunday crowds so we could get further south on Monday.

After a short walk around the town with Charlie was wandered up to the entrance only to discover that dogs were allowed in – tempting as it was Charlie said he’d rather have a sleep back at the van than risk being trodden on by a bus-load of tourists or poked with a selfie-stick, fair play, the dog knows what he likes.  Back at the van I made us a courgette frittata for lunch (we’re making an effort to do a bit more cooking from scratch now we have the time) to fuel us on for the sightseeing.

Coughing up €12.50 each we swapped our tickets for a little guide book which explained all about the chateau and what we’d find in each room, first things first though – there was a maze to do.

It didn’t take long, either we’re maze masters so it was quite easy – I think it as the latter. We then wandered around the two main gardens – Diane’s Garden and Catherine’s Garden, revealing the triangle love story of the chateau. Catherine de’ Medici was the wife of Henri II, King of France, however naughty Henri gave the chateau to Diane de Poitiers who is referred to as ‘his favourite lady’ – ahem. Diane was 20 years his senior but had beauty and good business sense, she was also the one who had the bridge over the river Cher added with the hope of expanding the chateau one day on the other bank of the river.

Catherine’s Garden

When Henri died Catherine wanted the chateau, so did a deal with Diane to get her out – Diane’s good business sense meant she ended up with a property that was worth more. Catherine then set about making the chateau suitable for her to govern France from – she raised the height of the bridge by adding two stories to enable huge parties to be held there.

Catherine’s emblem is two crossed C’s – add an H for Henri and you get D for Diane!

Little did she know that some 400 years later, during the Second World War, the ground floor arcade which was the only bridge across the river, would be used by the Resistance to help Jews flee across the line of demarcation (the river) to the ‘free zone’.

Jay making his bid for freedom across the river

There were loads of fascinating facts as we walked around, and some beautifully decorated rooms. But as we left the final room on the first floor Jay headed for the door, there were two more floors to go! It’s fair to say by the end we were a little chateaued-out. It was lovely to see it, but I’m not sure I’m bothered about visiting any more just yet.

Hmm – we seem to have worn the pattern away!

I love that dogs are allowed in!

Jay investigates the wine cellar

They don’t seem to have sold much recently

Back in Zagan we had a British van parked up next to us so I popped my head in the door and asked if they had already been into the Chateau, if not they could have one of our guidebooks to read up in advance. They’d already been in, but we got talking to Vicky and Barnie from Cornwall, then drinking, then eating (Vicky cooked us up a one pot wonder) and it turned into a great night.

Our thick heads this morning weren’t helped by the trains, but hopefully we’ll bump into those guys again as we’re heading in the same direction – south for some sun.

Bonus pics –

Jay ponders what he’d look like as Louis XIV

The closest we’ll get!

For Jay’s Mum & Dad – The Donks say hello!!

Cheers, Ju