A stop in Montfort for a dip in the Dordogne
Zagan is chilling out listening to the Rugby World Cup being played out in unison on television sets in the vans either side of us, in the sunlit aire in MontFort (N44.83550 E1.24878). It’s been in the 20’s all day today, warm enough for shorts and T shirts.
This morning we headed out for a jog, retracing our steps from the last two days along the road overlooking Rocamadour, then down into its shop and café-lined streets. Jay even managed to sprint up some of the Grand Staircase – we’ve been up it three times now, probably more than any pilgrim.
Pampered pooch enjoyed breakfast in bed today.
After showers and a spot of breakfast we programmed Domme into our satnav and set off for a dawdle along the Dordogne, stopping to take a new facebook page cover photo as we left Rocamadour.
Our route took us down narrow lanes lined with trees, their leaves ablaze in all shades of orange. We pulled in at a viewpoint to get a better look at another chateau built in an incredible position on another cliff, the sky above it was dotted with about 15 birds of prey (any ideas what folks?) using the morning’s thermals for a bit of a wing stretch.
We carried on as the trees on our right were replaced with sheer cliffs of rock, the Dordogne running along our left – the road had turned into a wonderful twisting, butt-clenching cornice.
Broad signs for various supermarkets started to appear along the roadside as we reached Souillac. We were reminded that tomorrow is All Saints day by the number of people walking around with carnation plants (traditionally put on the graves of relatives tomorrow) so we nipped into E.Leclerc to stock up on a few bits of food as we suspect France will be even more shut than the usual Sunday.
Spotting the sign for a motorhome service point just a couple of hundred metres from the road we’re on, we pulled in to top up our fresh water bottles – the water from our tank is still tasting chemically so we’re avoiding it unless its boiled. The signs directed us to a sunny little parking area with a few other vans already in it, their residents spilled out into tables and chairs sipping wine and enjoying lunch. In the height of summer I am sure this would be frowned upon – you aren’t supposed to camp at aires, tables and chairs should stay in your van. In the warm autumn afternoon no one gave two hoots – that’s another reason why we love France out of season.
We liked the look of the little village, which is part of the bigger village of Vitrac about 2km away, so Domme will have to wait another day. We wandered around the two streets of Montfort, gazing up at the work being done to repoint the walls of the chateau. A scrabble down to the river revealed it to be too fast-flowing to dip our toes in, but we did get to witness several crows chasing a bird of prey off their patch.
Montfort
View of the Dordogne about 100m from our sleeping spot
Later in the afternoon we follow signs for Soleil Plage, assumed to be a sunny riverside beach. On our way there we spotted numerous walnut trees and foraged in the leaves for some tasty free food, until we heard someone shouting – I think it was at their dog and not us, but we scampered off red-faced like naughty school children anyway, just in case.
We found Soleil Plage, a closed campsite (open from late April until mid-September). Right next to it is a gentle slope down to the river and a small pebble beach, perfect for toe dipping. Jay wandering in, but then decided that’s a half measure so he stripped down to his pants and waded in for a swim. The river is really fast flowing so when he lifted his feet off the bottom it was like being on a fast conveyor belt, whizzing past me. We sat on the riverbank in the last of the sunlight while he dried off, then wandered back to Zagan – collecting more walnuts as we went.
We’re both loving it here so much we might never leave.
Ju x
Sorry the flowers for allsaints (Tousaints) are Chrysanthemums, the style in the pots like your photo are pom poms. Sorry to be a nit picker, I only know this because my managing director told me. I’m a towny like you. Colin PS love your blog, last visited Rocamadourabout 1997, .
So many places we recognise and so many memories of lovely villages and great times down there. Sooooo jealous!
gorgeous
Twitsher report on ya bird ….It;s a Red Kite or a Milan as they call them in Switzerland, easily recognosed by the fork tail ….hope you are still well
Up the revolution
Lord Bill of Luzern
Lovely! Because we read you’re blog eagerly every time you send it We really want to have a go ourselves Charlie’s fans Xxxx
Well done! Planning a dip in our local étang tomorrow as 19 degrees is scheduled! That will be 1 November and our latest ever swim – last year was 15 October.
Your birds of prey are (first) Red Kites, which often soar in numbers and are not uncommon in parts of France. They were re-introduced to England a few years ago after being extinct in the UK for a long time. They are now so successful they are to be seen flying everywhere in Oxfordshire. We saw large numbers of them near Dijon a few years ago. The V shaped tail is unique, so easy to identify.
Second is a Buzzard being mobbed by Jackdaws. They fly singly or in mated pairs, sometimes with their youngsters too. Aggressive birds like Jackdaws and Rooks are not scared of them and will chase them away. Buzzards sometimes seem almost contemptuous of their attackers and fly away slowly, as if they don’t care.
Post anything which flies, guys, feathered or metal and we’ll i/d it for you.
Cheers,
Baz&Tee
Promise me you’ll go to Beynac … I loved it oh and la roque gageac is stunning. We so nearly settled in the Dordogne, it is truly beautiful, enjoy!
Hi Michelle
We loved Beynac when we visited it about 4 years back (there’s a blog post on here somewhere) but as there are just so many incredible places to visit in the world we’re trying not to go back to many of the same spots, so we’ll skip it this time. Thanks for the prompt though, we often don’t know anything much about the area we’re in when we get there and need all the help we can get!
Ta, Jay
glad you are enjoying Dordogne. Liore is so overrated compared to Dordogne. Just keep pootling along the river and stop for a look-see at the villages – there are plenty of lovely ones to come too and very accessable. love rose and paul
Thanks guys! The sun’s just coming up filling another pure-blue sky. Oh, yeah baby. :-) cheers from the northern hemisphere, Jay
Our favourite site is on the opposite side of the river at Montfort
http://www.searchforsites.co.uk/marker.php?id=2050
Hi Ju and Jay
One for Charlie though,
can you get the same Lidl dog food abroad as they sell in UK? Cos then I need to be weaned on to it before we make our own adventure. (We have a B634)
Btw, is that a woman carrying flowers with a baguette or a long haired bloke with flowers without a baguette?
Thoroughly enjoying your notes.
All the best
Barney (Labradoodle)
Hi Barney
You know what, they even seem to sell different brands of our food across Europe, so you never know what you’re gonna get. Lots of them sell the same pate ‘meat’ you get in the UK (which I love) but the dry food varies.
Before we set off I used to eat Wellbeloved at umpteen quid a go. Now I eat the cheapest pet food after the vet suggested if we don’t have the most expensive we should get the cheapest, go figure. I have my food mixed with any new stuff for a few days before a complete swap over and it suits me just fine. Maybe not surprising I don’t get a bad tummy, since I also have a tendency to eat any old rotting stuff I manage to get my jaws on (that seagull carcass near Blackpool was delicious).
Happy travels fellow dog-meister.
Charlie x
Hi Ja and Ju.
That Dutch van you parked next to in Villandry, that was towing a car.
Did you notice if they were flat towing it?? that is with an A frame. Or on a trailer?
Regards,
Alan.
Hi Alan
It was on an A frame, not a trailer. But that’s about all I can tell you, didn’t really pay it that much attention.
Cheers
Julie
Bringing back some fab memories. We’re in the same area for three weeks earlier in the year. Such a beautiful place. Enjoy your travels Julie