{"id":7677,"date":"2013-01-18T16:48:03","date_gmt":"2013-01-18T16:48:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=7677"},"modified":"2018-12-18T14:00:49","modified_gmt":"2018-12-18T14:00:49","slug":"david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/","title":{"rendered":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Dave the motorhome is facing a sea of olive branches, devoid of their tiny rugby-ball fruit, hiding us in greenery from the road. We&#8217;re at the somewhat plush-looking Hotel Thougga (N36.45765 E9.25572), on the outskirts of T\u00e9boursouk, staying in the car park for a fee of 15TD (about \u20ac7) per night. Not sure if we were looking for the Hotel Dougga (referenced in a database we have) or Thougga (mentioned in the Rough Guide), we pulled in anyway and chanced it. The chap behind reception understood immediately what a camping-car was, gave us a reasonable price, and handed over the &#8216;fiche&#8217; registration cards in English. He&#8217;s also offered us a Wild Boar tea in the\u00a0restaurant; oddly a pork meal in Muslim Tunisia, but we&#8217;ve not decided yet whether to indulge.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_7685\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00043.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7685\" class=\"wp-image-7685 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00043-1024x400.jpg\" alt=\"Wet, it may be. \u20ac7 for staying in a car park may seem steep. But this is heaven to us right now.\" width=\"620\" height=\"242\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00043-1024x400.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00043-300x117.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00043.jpg 1965w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7685\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wet, it may be. \u20ac7 for staying in a car park may seem steep. But this is heaven to us right now.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Since deciding to come to Tunisia, we&#8217;ve been aware of the fact Julie&#8217;s grandfather (her Dad Malcolm&#8217;s father) is buried here. Since arriving in Tunisia we&#8217;ve felt the weight of the fact. There was no way we would leave the country without visiting and paying our respects, but as the grave is in the centre of Northern Tunisia, we have circled around to it so we could have a look at the north of the country first.<\/p>\n<p>Yesterday as I looked up the 1st Battalion Scots Guards, I realised that we were probably in the same valley through Northern Tunisia he&#8217;s likely to have travelled 70 years ago. It was a sobering thought. The Allies launched an attack on North Africa, <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Operation_Torch\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Operation Torch<\/a>, coming in through Vichy French-controlled Morocco and Algeria (who were technically obliged to fight against the Allies but put up little resistance), under pressure from Russia to help prevent the Germans from crushing them. The idea was to form a platform from which Italy could be attacked via Sicily, a plan which was ultimately successful. As far as I can tell, David would have sailed from the UK into Algeria. Once the task force touched down, the Axis powers responded immediately, landing troops in Tunisia the next day.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_7688\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09944.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7688\" class=\"wp-image-7688 size-content\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09944-620x264.jpg\" alt=\"The glowing-green Medjerda plain, scene of fierce fighting in winter 1943.\" width=\"620\" height=\"264\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7688\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The glowing-green Medjerda plain, scene of fierce fighting in winter 1943.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7687\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7687\" class=\"wp-image-7687\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940.jpg\" alt=\"A modern-day scene in Northern Tunisia. A few inches of ground clearance maybe?\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09940-70x53.jpg 70w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7687\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A modern-day scene in Northern Tunisia. A few inches of ground clearance maybe?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>As I said above, from what I can see (please anyone correct me if I&#8217;m wrong), the 1st Battalion Scots Guards formed part of the fighting units which\u00a0attempted\u00a0to race across Tunisia, through the same wet-season mud which now encrusts Dave, to get to Tunis before the Axis could fully organise themselves. As we drove along from our sleeping spot last night, the Medjerda plain opened up to the south, the same one David would have had to fight his way through around late March\/ early April 1943. Just to our left rose a high bank of hills, presumably great\u00a0defences\u00a0for the Axis, and each would have had to have been cleared somehow.<\/p>\n<p>The road for us was, of course, an easy ride. Wide and for the most part smooth, we cruised along, with a feeling of foreboding building. Passing through Beja, we hardly looked at the place, it looked grim in the grey rain. After an hour or two on the road, thanking a deity for our washers and wipers functioning as intended as the rain came down, and mud came back up, we spotted the huge 20km long lake created by the Sidi Salem dam. By this point the plain had punched back up again, the lake forming from the river which used to flow through the valley created by the hills. Lush and green, we could have\u00a0persuaded\u00a0ourselves\u00a0we were in the Lake District. As we rounded a corner in the road, a green sign appeared, much like those we&#8217;ve seen across the whole of Europe, but this time it was personal. Ju&#8217;s eyes had been tear-filled for a while, stopping once she had something practical to do, organising Dave in his roadside parking spot below the unsealed mud track leading up over the hill and out of sight. A man on a 100cc bike man-handled it up the slope, ignoring us but for a lifted hand.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_7680\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00015.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7680\" class=\"wp-image-7680 size-content\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00015-620x264.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00015\" width=\"620\" height=\"264\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7680\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A road sign in English here is a rare sight.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7689\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7689\" class=\"wp-image-7689\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954.jpg\" alt=\"DSC09954\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09954-70x53.jpg 70w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7689\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This mud road used to end in the town, which was shifted when the lake was created. The cemetery lies at the bottom of the hill, a few hundred meters to the left.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Climbing the hill we grew a few inches, the soil was clay-like from the days of rain, and our feet grew heavy. I tried to make light of it, scraping my feet on whatever stone I could find. Topping out, we could see the head stones assembled off to the left, the odd sight of a church tower framing them behind. We trudged the rest of the path.<\/p>\n<p>The\u00a0graveyard\u00a0was, of course, very well kept, an oasis of order and cleanliness in a country where these things are far more rare than our north European homeland. A clean boot-scraper at the solid metal gate was put to good use and we walked in to read the plaque and find David&#8217;s spot. Ju was by this point breaking down, I was unsure whether to leave her alone or to comfort her. I tried a mixture of both.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00008.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7679\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00008.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00008\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00008.jpg 750w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00008-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The grave stands proud, shoulder to shoulder with Scottish countrymen, looking out over the hillside and down towards the still water of the lake. Ju never knew her grandfather, and I think she felt the loss of it, kneeling to touch the cold reminder of his presence on Earth and weeping.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7690\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969.jpg\" alt=\"DSC09969\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09969-70x53.jpg 70w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7691\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg\" alt=\"DSC09986\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986-70x53.jpg 70w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/g6lKYvY1IFI\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Walking around the rest of the stones, we saw George Ellis, and said hello from Pat and John, a couple who&#8217;d provided Malcolm with information on the\u00a0cemetery. More Sherwood Foresters reminded us of our Nottingham-Derby border home. Towards one side six Indian soldiers were honoured, their graves facing, we presume, towards Mecca.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-7678\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00006\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00006-70x53.jpg 70w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I wonder how David (who died two years younger than I am now) and (I&#8217;m sure he had one) his fellow band of brothers, coped with the idea they were in Africa, fighting against German and Italian men in the rain and mud of a Tunisian winter. It&#8217;s impossible to answer, but I am fairly certain I could not muster a tenth of the required courage.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_7693\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09988.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7693\" class=\"wp-image-7693 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09988-822x1024.jpg\" alt=\"DSC09988\" width=\"620\" height=\"772\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09988-822x1024.jpg 822w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09988-241x300.jpg 241w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7693\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oued Zarga War Cemetry<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7692\" style=\"width: 567px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09987.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7692\" class=\"wp-image-7692 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09987-557x1024.jpg\" alt=\"DSC09987\" width=\"557\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09987-557x1024.jpg 557w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09987-163x300.jpg 163w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09987.jpg 1393w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 557px) 100vw, 557px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7692\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oued Zarga War Cemetry<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Once we&#8217;d taken photographs and video of the site, we clomped our way back over the hill, inevitably filling Dave with mud as we climbed back in, even though our football-shaped boots stayed at the door. We had heard that the\u00a0cemetery register was in the Oued Zarga Guard Nationale police office down the road, and set off to find it. We found the police office, and inside it three very confused policemen, but they didn&#8217;t have the book, or a clue what we were on about, so we left. Oued Zarga itself had something of a wild-west-in-the-pouring-rain look about it and we skipped it, topping up on fuel out of town.<\/p>\n<p>The rest of the day&#8217;s been a blur. Having some idea we could stay safely at a hotel near the Roman ruins at Dougga, with a fallback of the ruins themselves, we turned back west, taking the toll road for a junction (cost: 0.4TD, about 16p). The motorway, which is in great condition, currently stops at Oued Zarga, but a giant scrape across the land past the\u00a0cemetery\u00a0hill indicates it won&#8217;t stay that way for too long.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_7684\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00036.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7684\" class=\"wp-image-7684 size-content\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00036-620x264.jpg\" alt=\"Dave goes OFF ROADIN' and doesn't get stuck, yeah baby!\" width=\"620\" height=\"264\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00036-620x264.jpg 620w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00036-300x129.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7684\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dave goes OFF ROADIN&#8217; and doesn&#8217;t get stuck, yeah baby!<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7683\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7683\" class=\"wp-image-7683\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00026\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026-70x53.jpg 70w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00026.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7683\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A familiar sight, shepherds pushing animals alongside the road, through towns, sometimes using dogs.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7682\" style=\"width: 630px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7682\" class=\"wp-image-7682\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00024\" width=\"620\" height=\"465\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024-174x131.jpg 174w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024-70x53.jpg 70w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00024.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 620px) 100vw, 620px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7682\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The mud and rain&#8217;s not helping the towns around here looks.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_7681\" style=\"width: 410px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00023.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7681\" class=\"wp-image-7681\" src=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00023-252x300.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00023\" width=\"400\" height=\"476\" srcset=\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00023-252x300.jpg 252w, https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC00023.jpg 841w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-7681\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Typical Tunisian shop. Unrelated, but somehow folks around here manage to keep their clothes impeccable while ours are caked in mud?<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The red road South-West cut through a few mud-splattered, nondescript towns. In one of them Ju jumped from Dave to grab some more cash (everything&#8217;s done with cash) and to buy a fresh, warm baguette (0.3TD, about 12p). After driving over a rough unsealed length of road, at a snail&#8217;s pace the same as everyone else, we pulled over and ate it, with some Tunis Carrefour cheese remarkably tasting like mature cheddar. From there to here. We&#8217;re safe, a couple of beers chill in the fridge, and we&#8217;re now firmly looking ahead, over the next range of mountains and into the salt flats, dust, rock and sand of the Sahara. Oh, and a glut of campsites, fantastic.<\/p>\n<p>Jay<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dave the motorhome is facing a sea of olive branches, devoid of their tiny rugby-ball fruit, hiding us in greenery from the road. We&#8217;re at the somewhat plush-looking Hotel Thougga (N36.45765 E9.25572), on the outskirts of T\u00e9boursouk, staying in the car park for a fee of 15TD (about \u20ac7) per night. Not sure if we [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7691,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[417,397],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7677","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-motorhome-blog","category-tunisia-motorhome"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dave the motorhome is facing a sea of olive branches, devoid of their tiny rugby-ball fruit, hiding us in greenery from the road. We&#8217;re at the somewhat plush-looking Hotel Thougga (N36.45765 E9.25572), on the outskirts of T\u00e9boursouk, staying in the car park for a fee of 15TD (about \u20ac7) per night. Not sure if we [&hellip;]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Our Tour Motorhome Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/OurTour\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1000\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Jason\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@ourtourblog\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@ourtourblog\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Jason\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Estimated reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Jason\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/28b4763ac800fdf951974d671ed33d28\"},\"headline\":\"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry\",\"datePublished\":\"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1553,\"commentCount\":5,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/01\\\/DSC09986.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Blog\",\"Tunisia\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/\",\"name\":\"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/01\\\/DSC09986.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/01\\\/DSC09986.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/01\\\/DSC09986.jpg\",\"width\":1000,\"height\":750},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\\\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/\",\"name\":\"Our Tour Motorhome Blog\",\"description\":\"Touring Europe and Beyond by Motorhome\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#organization\",\"name\":\"The OurTour Motorhome Travel Blog\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-GB\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/12\\\/OurTour-Logo-Square-no-Strapline-small.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2018\\\/12\\\/OurTour-Logo-Square-no-Strapline-small.jpg\",\"width\":300,\"height\":206,\"caption\":\"The OurTour Motorhome Travel Blog\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\"},\"sameAs\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/OurTour\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/x.com\\\/ourtourblog\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.instagram.com\\\/ourtourblog\\\/\",\"https:\\\/\\\/www.youtube.com\\\/channel\\\/UCKAWyrFnDzaZ5xJxCWHskmQ\"]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/ourtour.co.uk\\\/home\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/28b4763ac800fdf951974d671ed33d28\",\"name\":\"Jason\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/","og_locale":"en_GB","og_type":"article","og_title":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog","og_description":"Dave the motorhome is facing a sea of olive branches, devoid of their tiny rugby-ball fruit, hiding us in greenery from the road. We&#8217;re at the somewhat plush-looking Hotel Thougga (N36.45765 E9.25572), on the outskirts of T\u00e9boursouk, staying in the car park for a fee of 15TD (about \u20ac7) per night. Not sure if we [&hellip;]","og_url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/","og_site_name":"Our Tour Motorhome Blog","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/OurTour\/","article_published_time":"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00","article_modified_time":"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00","og_image":[{"width":1000,"height":750,"url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Jason","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@ourtourblog","twitter_site":"@ourtourblog","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Jason","Estimated reading time":"8 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/"},"author":{"name":"Jason","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#\/schema\/person\/28b4763ac800fdf951974d671ed33d28"},"headline":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry","datePublished":"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00","dateModified":"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/"},"wordCount":1553,"commentCount":5,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","articleSection":["Blog","Tunisia"],"inLanguage":"en-GB","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/","url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/","name":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry - Our Tour Motorhome Blog","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","datePublished":"2013-01-18T16:48:03+00:00","dateModified":"2018-12-18T14:00:49+00:00","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"en-GB","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-GB","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","width":1000,"height":750},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/david-william-smith-scots-guards-oued-zarga-war-cemetry\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"In Honour of David William Smith, Scots Guards: Oued Zarga War Cemetry"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#website","url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/","name":"Our Tour Motorhome Blog","description":"Touring Europe and Beyond by Motorhome","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-GB"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#organization","name":"The OurTour Motorhome Travel Blog","url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-GB","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/OurTour-Logo-Square-no-Strapline-small.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/OurTour-Logo-Square-no-Strapline-small.jpg","width":300,"height":206,"caption":"The OurTour Motorhome Travel Blog"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/OurTour\/","https:\/\/x.com\/ourtourblog","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/ourtourblog\/","https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/channel\/UCKAWyrFnDzaZ5xJxCWHskmQ"]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/#\/schema\/person\/28b4763ac800fdf951974d671ed33d28","name":"Jason"}]}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/DSC09986.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7677","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7677"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7677\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":32679,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7677\/revisions\/32679"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7691"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7677"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7677"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7677"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}