{"id":34395,"date":"2019-03-23T10:17:33","date_gmt":"2019-03-23T10:17:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=34395"},"modified":"2019-03-23T12:58:06","modified_gmt":"2019-03-23T12:58:06","slug":"across-the-basque-country-donostia-to-capbreton","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/across-the-basque-country-donostia-to-capbreton\/","title":{"rendered":"Across the Basque Country, Donostia to Capbreton"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome’s tyres are nudged up against the sands of the Plage des Oc\u00e9anides surf beach near Capbreton, north of Biarritz. We’re in a familiar aire, a popular and easy-going place operated by the local council who charge different rates according to the season (N43.63672, W1.44721<\/a>). They’re currently charging \u20ac10 a night, which includes electricity and two service points. Despite only being a tarmac car park, I really love it here, partly down to my affinity to the miles-long natural Atlantic beach alongside us, and partly down to the vibrancy brought in by the surf community. These guys and gals are turning up in their cars, surf school vans and a range of funky transports including electric fat bikes with handmade surfboard carriers, and even a kind of zippy electric-powered skateboard\/longboard with big wheels. This latter contraption exceeded my (admittedly low) bar for maximum coolness, as the guy flew past us on our bikes, swinging his hips to flip his wheels left and right like he was snowboarding uphill, on a road. I’m not tempted to buy much these days, but that thing and those fat bikes looked just fantastic.<\/p>

\"The
The Motorhome Aire at Capbreton North of Biarritz France<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"An
An Electric Fat Bike at the Beach – some guys were using these to ride on the beach itself, carrying metal detecting gear or surfboards<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"Plage
Plage des Oc\u00e9anides Capbreton Surf Beach France<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

The journey here from San Sebastian \/ Donostia should be fairly straightforward. We’re right in the nook of the Bay of Biscay down here, where the Pyrenees dip down to the Atlantic and flat land becomes a sought-after commodity. The roads get squeezed into a gap between high hills and the sea and, like wasps in a jar, the traffic seems to get a tad frantic with it all. The AP-8 (in Spain) and then the A63 (in France) motorways bypass all the back-road, through-town, uphill crawling mayhem, but for a price. Typically I opted to avoid said price, an act of self-flagellation repeated from previous tours, which I never seem to learn from. This time the pain in my shoulder and the fact we’ve sold a fair few Motorhome Touring Handbooks<\/a> recently (thanks guys), eased us through the toll booths half way through the journey, shaving a whole 30 minutes off the journey and \u20ac4.80 off the fun fund. In fairness, we got on at J4 of the A63 and went straight into a set of tolls, when we could have got on back at J2, skipping all of St-Jean-de-Luz and a bunch of other seaside towns for the same price.<\/p>

We did the journey weighed down with Spanish diesel (a good 20c a litre cheaper than in France), a few bottles of brandy, stand-ya-spoon-up chocolate drink, a rather large quantity of Free Damm beer and a rather smaller quantity of Spanish grub. The huge Eroski on the outskirts of San Sebastian (the Basque-founded supermarket, with little Basque flags below all the locally-produced food and drink), seemed expensive to us and we only picked up some essentials before heading across the car park to start the journey here. Parked among cars and vans strangely all for sale, we reminisced about the first time we were there in Dave seven or eight years back<\/a>, buying a cheap starter battery to use as a leisure battery (it was still going strong after two years), and eating McDonalds to try and get over a head-crushing Donostia handover!<\/p>

\"Too
Too Much Red Wine Choice in Eroski San Sebastian!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"\"
Ju Likes Chocolate Milk, Not Enough to Buy 6Kg of It Though!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

In theory, we should be much further north by now. We’re right down in the bottom-left of France here, and our pre-booked Channel Tunnel’s on 28 March (which as of yesterday is no longer the day before Brexit – that particular saga continues). Five days left, and at our usual snail pace we’d normally take a week or five to cross France. Sod it. The weather’s just too nice down here to rush north. Flawless skies are granting us pure blue days and cool nights, and the impact on our mood is tangible. Like running on the beach, my will to urge myself onwards swells and dips with the varying softness of the sands. The same goes for the weather: with bright light shining off sunglasses and nostrils full of Holiday Smell Factor 50, I’m simply happy. We’ve been here two nights already, and over a pain-au-chocolat<\/i> from the bread van which visits the site each morning, have opted for a third night tonight, stuff it! That means 15 hours of driving to do in three days: not a massive challenge, and we’ll revert to the toll roads if we get fed up.<\/p>

\"Running
Running on the Beach at Capbreton<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

The town of Capbreton’s about a mile away from the suburb we’re ensconced in. A cycle path took us there yesterday, continuing past and up to the packed marina another mile or two north. With ice creams in hand we leaned on the barrier alongside Le Boudigau<\/i>, a sea inlet which joins the marina to the Atlantic. A yacht was attempting to fight its way out against the sea flooding inland, barely managing a walking pace. The two blokes aboard chatted nonchalantly to each other while a thin crowd of us peered at their ever-slowing progress. Just a few meters from the sea, all progress was halted, and the boat started to drift backwards until eventually (in a huff I imagine), it spun round and sped back to the marina. Later a huge white beast of a yacht burned its way out against the tide in an impressive show of boaty strength. Once we’d inspected the ice-cooled eels, squid and oysters on sale in the fish market, we took a slow ride back to the aire. Tough life, eh?<\/p>

\"The
The Fish Market at Capbreton<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

Today’s Saturday so the aire’s filled up a little with local vans. Switching from Spain to France feels like coming home to us these days. Probably partly down to the language, as we’re able to speak at least a little French. We got some practice in San Sebastian, as the French van behind us was so close we couldn’t get off our ramps. Pouvez-vous bouger un peu s’il vous pla\u00eet? <\/i>They were very obliging and we left with shared smiles and waves. It’s true you don’t need to speak anything but English to travel across the world, but I think it’s also true that the more of the local lingo you do speak, the more fulfilling the experience of travel is. That said, I put in very little effort to learn Spanish, other than some simple phrases: puedo comer algo<\/i>? Can I eat something? and the like. Ju worked much harder at it than I did, I should say.<\/p>

\"Enjoying
Enjoying a Walk on the Beach at sunset. Life’s good.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

And with that our time on this tour’s ticking to an end. Tempus fugit<\/i>: time flies! Nah, they didn’t do latin at my comprehensive school, I picked this phrase up from the wee bit of stoicism I eyeball from time to time: momento mori, tempus fugit,<\/i> so the saying goes: remember your own mortality folks, don’t pretend you will live for ever, seize your chance, do whatever you want to do now, don’t put it off. Our own plan is to be in the UK for a few weeks, hopefully sort Ju’s knee out, and then head to the Alps for a couple of months in the summer. One tour draws to an end, but (touch wood), the longer one continues.<\/p>

\"\"<\/figure><\/div>

Cheers, Jay<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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