{"id":33960,"date":"2019-02-25T15:54:52","date_gmt":"2019-02-25T15:54:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=33960"},"modified":"2019-02-25T17:36:23","modified_gmt":"2019-02-25T17:36:23","slug":"almost-half-of-guadix-live-underground","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/almost-half-of-guadix-live-underground\/","title":{"rendered":"Almost Half of Guadix Live Underground…"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome’s a stone’s throw from the centre of Guadix in Andalucia, in a large gravel area up against the town’s huge but bone-dry river bed. We’re in the official Guadix autocaravana<\/i> parking area, which has a service point and costs the grand sum of nothing (N37.30436, W3.13334<\/a>). We’ve made an attempt to give something back, eating a stomach-busting three course men\u00fa del d\u00eda<\/i> each at a restaurant in the Plaza de la Constituci\u00f3n<\/i>, although that only depleted the Team Zagan war chest by the somewhat meager amount of \u20ac27, including tip and drinks, and we’ll have had two night’s free parking thrown in. Thank you Guadix.<\/p>

\"Free,
Free, official motorhome parking near the centre of Guadix in Andalusia, Spain<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

Guadix has proven to be a bit of a find for us. We expected nothing of it, just another stopping off point as we aim our way towards C\u00f3rdoba. One of Spain’s many toll-free, traffic-devoid motorways propelled us here, with a short detour into Baza to stock up on diesel and GPL for our gasIT tanks<\/a>. Strictly speaking we didn’t need the gas (we can carry about 32 litres and had only used 14 litres in the past 4 weeks), but I’m a tad nervous of running out of the stuff like we did at the start of this trip<\/a>. When we first came to Spain back in 2011<\/a>, there were only a few LPG filling plants across the country, and we had to plan ahead to make sure we could find gas. These days it’s available in tons of places, Repsol garages in particular, and there really wasn’t any need for us to squeeze into the one we squeezed into… elbows in folks (there was a wall in front, so we reversed back out).<\/p>

\"Stocking
Stocking up on LPG at a Repsol garage in Baza, Spain<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

Guadix, it turns out, has the largest inhabited cave neighborhood in Europe, with almost half the town’s population living in over 2000 caves, in the Barrio Troglodyte<\/i>. From the motorhome area, a bridge over the part-time river takes you to the cathedral in about 5 minutes. Alongside that’s the tourist info office and from there it’s maybe a 20 minute walk across the town’s meandering streets into the caves. The twisting streets are a legacy of the North Africans who built the original medina here a few hundred years back, on the site of a Roman settlement. On the way to the caves, we nipped into the Iglesia de San Miguel<\/i> and eyeballed the ceiling: an ancient Muslim pattern called Mudejar<\/i>, set high in a Catholic place of worship, reflecting Spain’s mixed-religion past.<\/p>

\"The
The mudejar ceiling in the Iglesia de San Miguel, Guadix, Spain<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

A map from the tourist office shows three viewpoints, of which the Mirador del Cerro de la Bala<\/i> is by far the best, with views out across the hard mud Badlands and white-washed cave entrances and chimneys, with the snow-coated Sierra Nevada as a magnificent backdrop. The two of us spent a good half hour up there, trying to take in both the details and the expanse of it all. On the way, a couple of locals sat warming up in the morning sun had given us a friendly buenos<\/i>, offset by an angry wee dog way below us. The tiny beasty barked herself braver as she made her way up the hillside a few tiny leaps at a time to see us off her patch, making us both smile.<\/p>

\"Looking
Looking out over Guadix and the cave district<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"One
Most of the caves are well-appointed with all mod cons. We saw one (with a swimming pool) for sale for over half a million Euros. You can rent one of these puppies if you fancy going troglodyte for a few days before asking the bank for a massive mortgage on a cave?<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"A
Some of the caves are far more basic, although not that many from what we could see. One or two are abandoned and you can have a look around. One we saw was barely bigger than a couple of Zagans.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"One
And a few (very few to be fair) caves looked like this – not so great – there is poverty here in places<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"The
The Sierra Nevada backdrop to the Guadix cave neighbourhood<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
\"
There aren’t enough photos of my beautiful wife on this blog.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

Guadix has a few other claims to fame, although we’ve not experienced ’em for ourselves. For one, a scene from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was filmed here, using a steam train at the local station about a mile from us. Word is it took 12 days to set up the filming, which itself took 2 days and used a load of locals dressed up as Turks. They were paid half a month’s wages for their efforts. Another is the Cascamorros festival in September. This sees a bloke from Guadix, referred to as the, wait for it, Cascamarros<\/i>, dressed up like a harlequin, carrying a truncheon and a wooden stick with a bladder hanging from it. His job is to try and get to the Church of Merced in Baza and nick a religious painting without getting daubed with paint. The citizens of Baza know he’s coming, every year, same day, same time, and every year everyone gets covered in paint. Once he’s in Baza, the Cascamorros (by this time head to toe in Dulux) has to come back to Guadix where, when the citizens see he’s not managed to half-inch the painting, again, cover him in yet more paint, wayhey!<\/p>

\"The
The Cascamarros<\/i> Festival in Baza and Guadix each September (image from Guadix tourist information office)<\/figcaption><\/figure>
\"Another
Another photo of the Cascamarros<\/i> Festival (image from Guadix tourist information office) <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>

We’re enjoying our time in Guadix. The motorhome parking’s incredibly convenient for the town, and despite being a tiny bit scabby (it’s not the Ritz folks), feels safe and welcoming. We’re a stone’s throw from a ton of shops, bars and restaurants. The late February weather is fantastic, the people are friendly and the cave area is a fascination (the only similar thing we’ve seen was in Matera in Italy<\/a>, and everyone had been forced to move out of it ages ago). We’ll have another night here and decide tomorrow where to head off to next. We’ve been to all of the obvious targets on our route: Granada and the magnificent Alhambra<\/a>, the mountains of the Sierra Nevada<\/a> and the famous hill villages of the Alpujarras,<\/a> so it’ll be somewhere new. As ever, watch this space.<\/p>

Cheers folks, Jay<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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