{"id":23408,"date":"2016-08-22T19:18:05","date_gmt":"2016-08-22T18:18:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=23408"},"modified":"2021-07-23T16:03:48","modified_gmt":"2021-07-23T15:03:48","slug":"northern-lights-rock-art-and-glaciers-norways-kystriksveien","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/northern-lights-rock-art-and-glaciers-norways-kystriksveien\/","title":{"rendered":"Northern Lights and Glaciers, Norway’s Kystriksveien"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome had a fantastic view an hour ago, at the base of a\u00a0massive wall that is the Holmvassdammen (N66.75260,E14.09990<\/a>), a 380 metre wide dam. But, as the sun dipped behind the mountains around us, cloud crept up the valley an enveloped him, so now all we can see is white.<\/p>\n

\"Holmvassdammen\"<\/p>\n

After the excitement of the maelstrom and with a freezer bursting with fish we set off along the Kystriksveien. Billed as the world’s most beautiful journey on the booklet the FV17, as it is technically known, has a lot to live up to.<\/p>\n

Soon we were crossing bridges and plummeting through tunnels bored into mountains. With the sun shining down on us we pootled along, mainly because the speed limit is 80 kph (50 mph), and admired the views around us. Craggy mountains diving into reflective fjords greeted us as we wound our way along the coast. Soon we spotted a memorial and pulled in for a closer look. It was to 34 Norwegian submariners and six British commandos who lost their lives when the British-made, Norwegian submarine HNoMS Uredd was sunk by a German minefield in 1943.<\/p>\n

\"Memorial<\/p>\n

After an hour of driving and just after a tunnel we stopped for a brew a lovely little picnic spot with benches, fire pits, a beach, motorhome service point and a closed co-op (well it was Sunday). We were tempted to stop there for the night, but it was in the shade of a huge chunk of mountainous rock and wouldn’t get the sun for several hours (N66.9600, E13.8032<\/a>). After a quick look around and a read of the information boards which showed images of the party they had in the 1990’s when the tunnel leading to it was opened, we carried on.<\/p>\n

Just after the village of Reip\u00e5 we spotted a beach sign and pulled into the parking (N66.89598, E13.64913<\/a>). We tucked ourselves into the end of the gravel space and got the chairs out. An afternoon of chilling out in the sunshine was followed by no-oven fish pie, a new recipe for us, but one that was rather tasty. We’re thinking of putting some recipes onto the blog, would you be interested in knowing our in-van favourites?<\/p>\n

\"Motorhome<\/p>\n

As night fell the sky was still clear and looking out just before I shut the curtains for bed I spotted star. I haven’t seen stars for months, the sky has been too light from the midnight sun. While we relaxed on Haukland beach Sarah from Veedubadventures mentioned friends of hers had seen the Northern Lights when they were on Senja the other day, this got me thinking.<\/p>\n

\"Sunset

Another amazing sunset<\/p><\/div>\n

A quick search of the internet and I found a northern lights forecaster<\/a> which lets you know how strong they are based on data from NASA. The higher the number the further south and clearer they will appear. It wasn’t good, the dial was saying it would be a 2 all night which would be only just visible where we are. Then the dial moved up to a 3. Staring out of the window my mind and eyes played tricks on me, every patch of sky containing a faint glow. We’ve been fortunate to see the lights before in Finland on a skiing trip, so I knew what I was looking for when a dim glow appeared, or was it a smudge on the window? I leapt out of Zagan, closely followed by Jay who leapt out of bed and wrapped himself in a sleeping bag.<\/p>\n

\"Aurora<\/p>\n

For the next two hours we both watched in awe as faint green clouds danced across the night sky, streaks appeared and disappeared before we could point the camera at them. Now both dressed and with sleeping bags wrapped around us for warmth, after all we are still in the Arctic Circle, we lasted out until 1am when the show slowly came to an end – confirmed by the internet forecaster which dropped to 1.67.\u00a0What a treat and a privilege. Only a month ago we were on a beach watching the midnight sun not set, and now we were watching the Aurora Borealis.<\/p>\n

\"Aurora<\/p>\n

This morning the scene around us couldn’t have been any different as Zagan was surrounded by fog. We set off quickly stopping off in the town of \u00d8rnes as I spotted a pharmacy. Charlie is running a bit low on his arthritis supplement. The assistants, there were several of them, were really helpful, but rather than spend a fortune on several individual tablets to make up what is in his one tablet, I think we’ll just order some from the UK.<\/p>\n

Back on the road and we were soon pulling in to watch dolphins swimming along the fjord beside us. Seriously Norway, how many amazing things can we take in.<\/p>\n

\"Dolphin<\/p>\n

We turned off at a gap between two tunnels onto a construction road which had a fleeting mention in our Kystriksveien booklet. It said the road was good and there is a view from one of the dams of the Svartisen glacier. The Svartisen is Norway’s second largest glacier but the arms of it that come down the valleys make it the lowest lying glacier on the European mainland.\u00a0Before we got 100 metres along the road information boards had us pulling in, again. Just around the corner was 9000 year old rock art, and as we’d skipped the rock art museum when we were in Alta<\/a>, we figured we’d nip and have a look.<\/p>\n

\"Rock

OK, they should be easy enough to spot<\/p><\/div>\n

The rock art is produced by polishing the stone so no lichen or moss sticks to it. In an effort to preserve the images several of the rocks have been cleaned, however in the dull light of the fog around us, we couldn’t see a thing. We stood for a good few minutes wondering if it was a con and a Norweigen Jeremy Beadle would appear, but nothing, so we left feeling a bit bemused.<\/p>\n

\"Norway

Errr, nope can’t see a thing<\/p><\/div>\n

Finally winding our way up the construction road we resisted the temptation to stop and admire the waterfalls lining the route, hunger driving us on to the top. A 3km long tunnel which climbed up through a mountain gave away that this isn’t a main road, unlit and pot-holed it took all of Jay’s concentration to get us out at the top in one piece.<\/p>\n

\"Unlit

Scary unlit tunnel reminded me of the opening credits for Dr Who<\/p><\/div>\n

Parking up under the wall of the dam, Jay got the outdoor gas cooker going so we could have lunch (it was now after 5pm) before a walk up onto the dam wall. As we climbed the sun set and the clouds chased up the valley towards us. We reached the top of the dam with just enough time to see the glacier before the cloud caught up with us and soared over our heads following the line of the dam wall above us.<\/p>\n

\"Holmvassdammen\"

Spot Zagan!<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Svartisen

Svartisen Glacier from top of dam<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Holmvassdammen\"<\/p>\n

The route back down was a white out, so we’re now holed up in Zagan with plans for a movie tonight. Fingers crossed the cloud clears as we fancy a walk around here tomorrow.<\/p>\n

Ju x<\/p>\n

\n

Planning your own motorhome adventure to Norway?
You\u2019ll find loads of tips in our\u00a0free guide<\/strong>\u00a0to\u00a0Touring Norway by motorhome<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n

New to motorhome life,
planning your own motorhome adventure, or
looking for the perfect gift for the motorhomer in your life?<\/strong>
Check out our\u00a0OurTour range of books<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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