{"id":23274,"date":"2016-08-15T12:23:49","date_gmt":"2016-08-15T11:23:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=23274"},"modified":"2021-07-23T16:09:09","modified_gmt":"2021-07-23T15:09:09","slug":"a-to-haukland-bouncing-about-the-lofotens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/a-to-haukland-bouncing-about-the-lofotens\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00c5 to Haukland, Bouncing About the Lofotens"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome is, in a change to our scheduled programme, hooning up and down the Lofotens like a deranged, wide-eyed, island-mad van-monkey. We’ve been down to \u00c5, the village right at the southern tip of the islands to meet our great friends Chris, Tina and daughter Libby, and have since bounced our way back up to the fabulous, free-camping white sand and blue ocean beach at Haukland (N68.19924, E13.52961<\/a>).<\/p>\n

\"Free

Free overnight motorhome parking at Haukland<\/p><\/div>\n

Five coaches have just arrived and a hundred or two\u00a0folks have rolled out of them, flowing out in the rain and onto the beach, arms thrusting forth a hundred cameras, and are now flowing back into the coaches. Identical pink badges on every coat suggest there’s a cruise ship in port somewhere on the islands. We’re sat watching this small spectacle feeling comfortable with our chosen approach to life and to travel; we’re thinking we’ll sit out the rain and hopefully have a BBQ tonight on the beach, maybe stay a couple of days. Sweet.<\/p>\n

\"The

The gang, re-united in the Lofotens!<\/p><\/div>\n

So, where have we been? OK, we headed the 90 min run down to\u00a0\u00c5 once we got word from Chris (who we first met in San Sebastian<\/a>, and was later\u00a0instrumental in securing our enduring freedom<\/a>) those guys had made a late ferry from Bod\u00f8 and were\u00a0sleeping in the free car park in the village. The landscape on the drive south is quite beautiful, a joy to roll through. That said, all up-talking of the Lofotens (I’m as guilty of this as anyone) has built up the islands to the point I was subconsciously expecting something akin to the eye-watering (and entirely computer-generated) floating islands from Avatar’s<\/em> world of Pandora. Obviously, since that landscape defies the laws of physics, the Lofotens couldn’t compete, but here in the real world (if you can call what we’re doing ‘real life’?), they’re about as close as we’re ever going to get to Pandora.<\/p>\n

\"DSC08094

The Lofotens: almost Pandora<\/p><\/div>\n

In the car park we also bumped into Sarah and Tabatha, a British mum-and-10-year-old-daughter duo who are taking a year out to travel Europe in a motorhome. Hats off to ’em, they set off a few weeks ago and are already up here, in the northern edge of the world, getting some adventure in! After a brief chat about some water-related problems with their van (the filler cap had removed itself at some point, and the grey water emptying point was a complete pain to get to), we waved ‘bye, seeing ’em a couple more times as we ambled back north.<\/p>\n

The other main thing I remember of \u00c5 was cod heads. The stock fish drying racks Lofoten’s famous for are almost entirely devoid of honking fish carcasses at the moment, but we got lucky\/unlucky in\u00a0\u00c5, as small teams of men were just in the process of cutting down tonnes of cod heads and loading them into a waiting lorry. The heads, roughly the size of a dog’s noggin and tens times as toothy, are apparently very welcome in Nigeria, and we’ve made a mental note to eat only bags of crisps if we ever make it there.<\/p>\n

\"Cod

Cod head harvesting in \u00c5, Lofotens<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Dried

Dried cod heads (stockfish) in \u00c5, Lofotens<\/p><\/div>\n

From\u00a0\u00c5 we headed for Reine, which was just beautiful (N67.93498, E13.09368). The price to sleep there was less pretty. New signs requested we deposit 200 NOK to stay from 3pm to 8am, and another 100 NOK to stay after 8am. \u00a330 for 24 hours in a car park – only Nordkapp<\/a> has put its hand out for a more outrageous amount of money to park, although thinking about it, Troms\u00f8 came close<\/a>. That said, Reine had, as well as a very eye-catching view, the world’s most picturesque motorhome service point, which weirdly was completely free of charge despite the town’s enormous stationary-tax.<\/p>\n

\"Overnight

Overnight motorhome parking in Reine, Lofotens<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The

The Most Beautiful Motorhome Service Point, in the World?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Fun

Fun times emptying our toilet cassettes!<\/p><\/div>\n

After a night in Reine, a few hours\u00a0of which were\u00a0spent spectacularly failing to catch any fish for tea, we all took a walk down to the start of a hike up the mountain over looking the town. Reaching the start of the walk, we looked upwards and with a collective nod, walked off. The view from up there must have been stupendous, but for a 3 year old, two whippets, my dead legs (I’ve finally been out for a run) and Tina’s dodgy ankle, the vertical scrabble didn’t look appealing. Maybe next time, which for us could\u00a0be in about 3 days as we’re heading back south to get the ferry to the mainland!<\/p>\n

\"A

A window in Reine, Lofotens<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Sign

Sign on a camping-fishing-hiking-anything-done-outside shop in Reine, Lofotens<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Us

Us two sunning ourselves in Reine<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The

The Lonely Planet once voted Reine the most picturesque place in Norway<\/p><\/div>\n

Next up, Nusfjord, via a magical mystery tour around Flakstad\u00f8y Island, finding various potential sleep-spots peppered with ‘No Camping’ signs, no doubt erected by locals frustrated with the influx of a hundred thousand motorhomes space-hogging each summer. A campsite alongside a fantastic white-sand beach almost tempted us in but at \u00a321 (without electricity) to sleep in a field, and knowing Haukland was no less pretty and completely free, we decided to pass. The lay-by we were parked in at the time had the most charming way of telling us we weren’t welcome to sleep with a sign which read: “Welcome to Nordland. This is a rest area, not a campsite. Please enjoy your short stay here before moving on. Enjoy the rest of your journey.” Nothing about staying 4 hours only, nothing about no overnighting, nothing about not sleeping. But the message was clear enough: we weren’t welcome to stay, and with a campsite in sight, not that surprising.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Lofotens are peppered with sweeping bridges like this<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Big

Big 10 this is Rubber Duck, we got us a convoy!<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Beautiful

Beautiful warming sunshine yesterday<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Beach

Beach near Flakstead<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Mummified

Mummified old house on Flakstad\u00f8y<\/p><\/div>\n

At Nusfjord the road ends at the village, launching us\u00a0up a steep hill at the end into the parking area like a couple of Harrier Jump Jets (N68.03438, E13.28260). New signs are up: 150 NOK overnight parking. \u00a315 for a few hour’s kip, plus another \u00a35 each to look at the village. A Norwegian website I’d read had an article saying a developer owns most of the village and was looking to recoup money for renovation work. There was talk\u00a0of a tall fence being built around the town, to remove the voluntary nature of the 50 NOK-a-look tax. The article quoted a local saying something along the lines of ‘what a load of BS, they’re just out to make money’.<\/p>\n

After 6pm the pay booth was closed and since no fence has yet been built, we had an unhurried look about the place. A kind of combined museum village, with new-built wooden summer cabins (\u00a3230,000 each if you fancy one), tourist fishing boats and a couple of honest-to-cod commercial fishing boats. An odd place, pretty, authentic and entirely unauthentic (sea-facing hot tub in a hard-working Arctic fishing village?), depending on how you squinted at it. I went fishing, lost a lure and got no bites, so I was feeling a tad grumpy about it all until no-one collected the 150 NOK parking fee…<\/p>\n

\"Nusfjord,

Nusfjord, where flat land has to be fashioned with stilts (spot the motorhomes)<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Fishing

Fishing boat in Nusfjord<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Chris

Chris scaring the bejesus out of a cod head<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Nusfjord:

Nusfjord: a wee bit film-set<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Old

Old ad for tobacco on ye-olde general store (closed but we could see the wild-west look of the supplies on wooden shelves through the window) in Nusfjord<\/p><\/div>\n

This morning we woke to find the ambitious, crisp clear blue sky replaced with a miserable, grey-faced cry-baby. A short dash out for Charlie to take his morning constitutional resulted in a wet-dog ambience within\u00a0Zagan as we headed back north. With wipers slapping we drove now-familiar\u00a0roads, tunnels, bridges and tracks back to Haukland, finding space between two rented Norwegian motorhomes\u00a0on the premium-space front row facing the beach. The Internet’s dog slow (it’ll take a couple of hours to upload the photos on this page), but the heating’s on and the forecast’s for decent weather later on. Chillin’ time. Ju’s checked our food stash too, and we’re good for a few more weeks yet!<\/p>\n

Cheers, Jay<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n

Planning your own motorhome adventure to Norway?
You\u2019ll find loads of tips in our\u00a0free guide<\/strong>\u00a0to\u00a0Touring Norway by motorhome<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n

New to motorhome life,
planning your own motorhome adventure, or
looking for the perfect gift for the motorhomer in your life?<\/strong>
Check out our\u00a0OurTour range of books<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

\"\"\/<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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