{"id":22900,"date":"2016-07-27T16:39:27","date_gmt":"2016-07-27T15:39:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=22900"},"modified":"2021-07-23T16:24:49","modified_gmt":"2021-07-23T15:24:49","slug":"through-the-incredible-arctic-tromso-to-hillesoya","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/through-the-incredible-arctic-tromso-to-hillesoya\/","title":{"rendered":"Through the Incredible Arctic, Troms\u00f8 to Hilles\u00f8ya"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome’s in an idyllic free camping spot, about 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle on Hilles\u00f8ya, the outer-most of a string of islands thrusting bravely north-west into the frigid Norwegian Sea (N69.63178, E17.99812<\/a>). After 25\u00b0C and bright sunshine yesterday, grey clouds have gathered and Zagan’s steadies have been wound down as the wind’s picked up today. The view from the windscreen remains, simply, out of this world.<\/p>\n

\"Motorhome

Motorhome wild camping on Hilles\u00f8ya Island, Arctic Norway<\/p><\/div>\n

A couple of days ago we exited the church-side parking in a hurry, as half the town had appeared from nowhere to attend a morning service and we felt guilty at taking up four spaces. Down the Troms\u00f8ya Island hillside and into Troms\u00f8, heading for a service point we’d found in campingcar-infos.com (near the Polaria Museum: N69.6425, E18.94538 – the adjacent motorhome parking was the cheapest we saw in the city at about \u00a325 per 24 hours, free overnight). Like France, Norway’s incredibly welcoming to the motorhome fraternity, making these facilities available free of charge: thank you Norway!<\/p>\n

\"Chemical

Chemical toilet disposal point in Tromso<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Free

Free drinking water made available for motorhomes in Tromso<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Norway

Norway seems to use a square key on drinking water taps – the ones we’ve used had the key attached, no problemo<\/p><\/div>\n

Fancying a look around the island of Senja, but also enjoying this part of our journey so much we didn’t want to get there too quickly, we gave formal instruction to satnav to head for Sommar\u00f8y, on the island next to where we ended up. Ju took over the driving, regretting it within about ten minutes as Zagan plunged into a Swiss-cheese labyrinthine of tunnels under Troms\u00f8ya, complete with enough underground roundabouts to make Milton Keynes green-eyed with envy.<\/p>\n

\"Roundabouts

Roundabouts under Tromsoya!<\/p><\/div>\n

I’d like to say the Satnav, deprived of its eyes in the sky, was useless in the hewn-out holes beneath the island, but I was sadly similarly inept. Roads about these parts are normally pretty simple to navigate, there not being that many routes available, so the navigator role is more one of encouragement and taking of photos rather than actually helping finding the way. Not so yesterday – the satnav spat us out to an al fresco roundabout before immediately instructing us to do a 360 and head back into the tunnels. Fortunately Ju’s head is screwed on, and she remembered the bridge we needed was next to the aiport, and followed the underground signs outta there.<\/p>\n

\"Bit

Bit of wind on the bridge from Tromosya!<\/p><\/div>\n

From Troms\u00f8ya, the road winds between green valleys across the island of Kval\u00f8ya, narrowing as it goes and testing Ju’s Zagan road-placement skills to the max. As she deftly steered, knuckles only turning white on the odd occasion, I gawped at the scenery unfolding out of the window to my right, hammering away at the camera in a futile attempt to capture it, all of it! A selection of said photos:<\/p>\n

\"Nasty

Nasty – nearly \u00a31.40 a litre for diesel. Fuel here gets cheaper at certain times of the day or week, but we’re not entirely sure when. Sunday evening is currently our favourite time<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Start

Start of the road to Sommar\u00f8y. For some reason half the signs were spelled wrong and someone had gone along with a marker pen correcting them<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Mountains

Mountains on Kval\u00f8ya. I got a bit of a fetish for taking photos with the back of the van in yesterday…<\/p><\/div>\n

\"See

See what I mean?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Fishing

Fishing huts on Kval\u00f8ya<\/p><\/div>\n

\"They

They love a bit of troll here in Norway. And goats with air-con units instead of heads?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Charlie

Charlie, now feeling much better, catching some Nordic rays<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Whooarrrr,

Whooarrrr, getting a bit tight. Fortunately not much traffic. Oh, in case you’re wondering, the round ‘don’t remove until out of Dover’ sign’s stayed in the windscreen as it has a security-enhancing picture of a dog on the other wide. the square vignette sticker’s still stuck there as we’re too lazy to pull it off<\/p><\/div>\n

Eventually a bridge appeared, swan-like in its grace as it leaped up and across to Sommar\u00f8ya. Having managed to force ourselves past a number of cracking-looking wild camping spots, one with a 7 meter rig perched on an unlikely steep hill, we waited for the traffic lights to change before taking the single-track flight over the sea below, as green-blue and pristine as Listerine.<\/p>\n

\"The

The bridge to Sommar\u00f8ya<\/p><\/div>\n

\"No

No toll on the Sommar\u00f8ya bridge but it’s one-way only, and the lights stay green for about 18 milliseconds<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Nice

Nice road placement Ju!<\/p><\/div>\n

Onto Sommar\u00f8ya we found ourselves off Sommar\u00f8ya within a few minutes, having found someone already parked in the spot we’d ear marked. Onwards we rolled, heading here as we’d seen it in the various databases available, complete with yet another freebie service point. Pulling onto the rough patch of land, we had to take care not to drive into the sea as we gawped at the magnificent scenery through the windscreen. Parking alongside a German motorhome, Ju spotted a sign and jumped out to check it: “Please don’t leave or burn your rubbish here”. Seems a rather fair request.<\/p>\n

Since arriving yesterday we’ve taken a few walks, hand-washed some clothes, I’ve snorkelled, we’ve watched our neighbours bring in bucket-fulls of fish from the ocean, cooked, supped wine and generally chilled out. Ju’s been working on a magazine article, and a British couple Miles and Poppy have just pulled in alongside, so we hope to have some company for the evening. Life is good folks. More photos below.<\/p>\n

\"We

We think this is a Long Billed Curlew, but they only seem to be in America, so this one must be lost?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Warm

Warm here at the moment, but these guys are clearly well prepped for an Arctic winter<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Looking

Looking out over Hilles\u00f8ya and Sommar\u00f8ya<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Fishing

Fishing boat an anchor near Hilles\u00f8ya bridge<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Our

Our German neighbours are fishing out at sea using a Waterworld Inflatable Rover (costs about \u20ac1200 excluding the outboard). They’re pulling in heaps of huge fish, but are heading out to the open ocean to get them<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Last

Last night’s dream-like view from Zagan’s window, looking south from Hilles\u00f8ya<\/p><\/div>\n

\"There

There are a mix of homes, holiday cottages, a hotel, fishing huts and us van-dwellers up here. Being somewhere so remote, I found it odd to see people mowing lawns and tending outside flower beds<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Holiday

Holiday rentals on Hilles\u00f8ya, not bad eh?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"I

I looked at this car parking place for a minute, thinking there was something odd about it, then noticed the snow-poles at each corner. Must be one hell of a place here in winter<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Locals

Locals on one of the white sand natural beaches, this one 100 meters from us<\/p><\/div>\n

\"An

An old fishing house fronts a modern place to the rear. Houses here tend to be concrete up to the first floor, then wood above.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Industrial

Industrial fishing gear lines the port<\/p><\/div>\n

\"More

More holiday rentals<\/p><\/div>\n

\"I

I walked across the beach earlier, needing to wear the camera bag as a helmet as one of these fellas attacked my noggin, drawing a wee bit of blood! Yes, I have seen The Birds, and yes, I do have new-found respect for these flying F16 fighterbirds!<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Perfectly

Perfectly presented and completely free service point. The second door is for a normal toilet which looks better than ours at home, complete with rug and wall heater, with a friendly note saying it’s maintained voluntarily and asking for a small donation<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Second

Second time snorkelling in the Arctic and this time it was cold! Managed to head-butt a football-sized jellyfish, which scared the bejesus out of me. Saw crabs, starfish, clams bigger then your fist, shoals of small fish, an eel and mussels, well worth the rubber-face feeling when I finally got out<\/p><\/div>\n

Cheers, Jay<\/p>\n

\n

Planning your own motorhome adventure to Norway?
You\u2019ll find loads of tips in our free guide to\u00a0Touring Norway by motorhome<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

\n

New to motorhome life,
planning your own motorhome adventure, or
looking for the perfect gift for the motorhomer in your life?<\/strong>
Check out our\u00a0OurTour range of books<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n
\"Motorhome<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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