{"id":19105,"date":"2015-12-04T17:35:30","date_gmt":"2015-12-04T17:35:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=19105"},"modified":"2019-04-02T12:39:08","modified_gmt":"2019-04-02T11:39:08","slug":"riding-the-relentless-road-to-bellas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/riding-the-relentless-road-to-bellas\/","title":{"rendered":"Riding the Relentless Road to Bellas"},"content":{"rendered":"

Zagan the motorhome is sat on short-cut grass, in the garden-turned-aire of a jovial and enterprising fellow in the hamlet of Bellas, just north of Millau (N44.31284\u00a0E3.12753). It’s \u20ac5 a night to stay here, right in the bullseye on\u00a0the middle-of-nowhere dartboard, and our Internet system’s<\/a>\u00a0still got a speedy\u00a03G connection. We shouldn’t be here though. We should be noshing down on a wonderful meal in a ferme-auberge further south, but got scuppered by fate, harrumph.<\/p>\n

\"Aire<\/a>

Aire at Bellas, a few km from the A75 north of Millau<\/p><\/div>\n

North, north! Team Zagan’s swinging back towards the\u00a0green and pleasant land that is Blighty. The ferry is booked for 16 Dec from Calais, which means we need to be up there on the 15th to get Charlie fettled at the St Omer vets. Still nearly 2 weeks away, but we’ve the length of La France to traverse and none of us much like driving, hence we’re eating the elephant one bite at a time.<\/p>\n

The first bite took us to Gruissan, which these days is pretty much dominated by a huge marina (not quite as big as Empuriabrava<\/a> mind!). Guided by satnav, we ended up on the D32 as we dropped out of Narbonne and rode on south-east. The D32 is a nice, wide, yellow-classification road on our map. But we were on a narrow ran-run of a skanky little thing running through the marshes, just wide enough for Zagan and an oncoming\u00a0car, tight enough to force a slowness which no doubt infuriated innumerable Frenchmen, who’s rat-running was being treated to the Zagan treacle-speed treatment. Squint again at that map. That’s right, there are two fecking D32’s \u00a0– the rat-run white one and a beautiful yellow one. Why ye-gods? Why?<\/p>\n

Into the Gruissan aire we finally rolled (N43.10379 E3.09972). A van-side of a sign at the entrance declared it to be \u20ac9, but only until the end of\u00a0Oct then it turns FoC. Oh yeah. The news was clearly out: there were maybe 50 other vans, including some rock-star slide-out massive ‘uns. Generators hummed – a clear sign the ‘normal’ rules of aire engagement weren’t in force as a few folks looked to be\u00a0sitting it out for weeks.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The aire at Gruissan<\/p><\/div>\n

Mildly fed up after the drive north, we walked the town under a grey sky, but with little enthusiasm. The town’s dominated by the marina, which was packed with boats but had been purged of life by the coming winter. Around the edge of the water, rather pricey restaurants sat closed, their outside areas a tacky mix of decking boards and painted signs. Neither of us could summon the energy to walk to the older part of town, and no doubt we did Gruissan a huge disservice.<\/p>\n

\"DSC07694<\/a>

Nazi bunkers at Gruissan, which now oddly face the back of a series of whitewashed villas<\/p><\/div>\n

\"DSC07682<\/a>

Nearest thing to life in Gruissan?<\/p><\/div>\n

\"DSC07687<\/a>

Boats. Thousands of boats. All sat unused.<\/p><\/div>\n

Casting about for something to do, we turned the bottle. Or rather, a bottle. Ju had been flogged a bottle of local Narbonne red by a sommelier-dressed fella in the supermarket down the road. It flowed nicely. A blind taste test of our olive oil collection ensued, with the result that I have no taste in olive oil. My favourite was the cheapest we had; the artisan stuff we picked up at the olive farm<\/a> came in last of the 3 options. “You don’t like it ’cause it tastes of olive” Ju hit the nail on the head. Films and a few TV programmes entertained us into the evening.<\/p>\n

\"We've<\/a>

We’ve finally, finally bought some snow chains by the way. Not the cheapest, but still probably far too cheap at less than \u20ac40. Just need to work out how to get ’em on now.<\/p><\/div>\n

This morning Ju worked out an email we got yesterday from Penny had arrived from the other side of the aire. Hmmmm. As there was only one other Brit-registered van in the car park, we should have guessed! Over we nipped for a chat. Penny travels alone for several months a year, after quitting her high-flying (ahem) job as a Rolls Royce engineer some years back, taking a job leading tours in Europe, Africa and the Middle East. After 8 years the company she was with started to use local guides, which forced a change in tack, so Penny trained as an English language tutor, and now spends half the year teaching and the other half travelling. She’s writes a\u00a0blog which is well worth checking out: European Nomad<\/a>, loads of info on costs and a nice section on recipes. This trip’s taken her around Italy and across Corsica and Sardinia so far – two islands we’re yet to visit, so before we head in that direction (one day) we’ll be gleaning as much info from there as we can.<\/p>\n

Today we was a driving day, heading back into Narbonne to grab some bits for our mate Jamie from the famous Narbonne Accessories, before hitting the A75.<\/p>\n

\"DSC07704<\/a>

Adventure Wagon for sale at Narbonne Accessories. At \u20ac30k, a bit steep for us.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"DSC07705<\/a>

Many times we have heard of this shop! There are actually a few of them spread across the region, but this is the one in Narbonne!<\/p><\/div>\n

The A75 is the ‘relentless road’ referenced in the post title. Reason? It cuts across a third of France, running directly North, costing nothing, and it stops for nothing. An hour or so from Narbonne the hills bubbled up, rising up and casting off the endless vineyards of the south. The air cools. Green signs for ‘open passes’ caught us out: we only normally see these on the approach to high mountains? We knew there’s a central massif in France, but somehow forgot this would mean hilly bits…<\/p>\n

\"DSC07720<\/a> \"DSC07718<\/a>On, on, on. Despite only being on the road for 2 or 3 hours, and after stopping off for lunch in a motorway\u00a0services car park, it felt a relief when we peeled off before the toll-section at the Millau Viaduct, heading east for the ferme-auberge we found on park4night.com.<\/p>\n

\"You<\/a>

You can just about make out the sleek form of the Millau Viaduct?<\/p><\/div>\n

Into Millau and out again, we found our road, which was shut. A sign declared it closed until 5:30pm, and we didn’t fancy tackling the tight little puppy in the dark. Map rapidly consulted: a yellow road to the south was a longer, but easier run in anyway, so down it we went, into the Gorges de la Douribe. Curses! It’s yellow, but tight again,\u00a0and when we finally find the turn off, we find it’s only passable if we dismantle Zagan and carry him up the road piece by piece, it’s that narrow.<\/p>\n

\"DSC07747<\/a>

Along the Gorge<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our supposed turn off to the left, which even Harry Potter would have struggled to get Zagan down<\/p><\/div>\n

Waa! Waa! I’m getting knackered. My back’s in agony. The fuel gauge is dipping into the ‘no fuel’ area. I want my auberge! Right, sod it. Out comes our park4night database again and we found this spot. There is an aire in Millau but we’ve stayed there before and it’s now about \u20ac10 a night with some weird need to buy a camping card or some such stuff we’ve not heard of before. So we nipped into Millau and fuelled up, then we zoomed off up the A75 again, hitting an all-time Zagan top speed of 110kph in the process.<\/p>\n

Pulling in here the chap running the place couldn’t have been more welcoming, popping over for his cash Charlie liked him so much he gambled around the fella like a lamb and then started off with him when he left! The rain’s now spitting\u00a0and the silver screens are in place. About 800m up here, so we’re expecting a cool night. Who knows – we may even need those chains in the morning?<\/p>\n

Cheers, Jay<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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