Our van is \u2013
\nA RHD \u2018W\u2019 reg CI Autoroller with a 1.9 TD diesel engine. Good ground clearance and solid suspension. We have low energy needs and minimal water consumption and can usually manage about 5 days before needing a campsite.<\/p>\n
Our trip \u2013
\nWe left the UK in November and spent a few months working in the Alps before setting off on our travels again in March. To date we have driven through France, Switzerland, Italy, Slovenia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Croatia and Montenegro. Insurance and funds permitting we hope to visit Albania, Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey before returning to the UK in the autumn.<\/p>\n
Romania<\/h3>\n![\"Fundu](\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Hill-walk-Fundu-Moldovei-Resized-1024x682.jpg\")
<\/a>Fundu Moldovei – Romania<\/p><\/div>\n
The country \u2013
\nRomania is a BIG country \u2013 our AA Road Atlas of Europe deceptively changed scale for Romania going up to 1:3000000 having been 1:800000 for the other countries we had driven through. Our Sat Nav gave up completely and we were floating in space for hours on the first day after which it was resigned to the glove-box for the remainder of our 2 week trip. The Tourist Information Office we first pulled in at in Arad couldn\u2019t provide a country map so we bought one in a bookshop in Arad costing \u00a33 \u2013 Huber-Niculescu Romania Tourist & Road Map 1:600000. The quality wasn\u2019t great but the detail was good.<\/p>\n
Currency \/ money \u2013
\nVery colourful notes, hardwearing with an odd plastic feel to them. We are using an FX pre-pay Mastercard and this was accepted at all ATM\u2019s and supermarkets and most garages.<\/p>\n
Roads \u2013
\nThere is a huge road building programme going on in some parts of the country. In other parts there are road signs saying there are road improvements going on but nothing is happening and in many areas there are no signs of any work and the roads are just dreadful. To see the best of Romania you need to be prepared to travel on the potholed, gravel roads at slow speeds and have a van capable and happy doing that. Some roads start off great then turn to dust, others just start that way.<\/p>\n
Standard of driving \u2013
\nWhen we lived in Turkey for 6 years we became accustomed to the driving style of the Turks and to some extent the Romanians are very similar. Only that was in the 80\u2019s and most cars and trucks didn\u2019t go that fast then. Nowadays the trucks are going fast and the cars faster still and most Romanian drivers seem to be short on patience and oblivious to approaching hazards. Roads are shared by fast cars, heavy lorries, pedestrians, tractors and even horse and carts. There are few lay-by\u2019s on the main roads to pull into. Everyone drives while on the mobile phone and reversing seems to be a bit of a mystery!<\/p>\n
Getting fuel \/ LPG \u2013
\nAll the big towns have a range of different garages, a lot having LPG. The prices vary quite considerably \u2013 the most we paid for diesel (April 2013) was 5.74 Lei per litre (\u00a31.10); the least was 5.55 Lei (\u00a31.07). Out in the country it can go above 6 Lei per litre. LPG was reasonably priced. Watch out for weekend discounts on prices \u2013 normally only on the more expensive diesel but we found a garage offering discounts on all fuels. The AA Touring Tips guide to Romania says that you are taxed on petrol and diesel in the vehicle tank when leaving Romania so we kept some money back for this but were waved through the border post at Naida\u015f without any mention of paying a tax.<\/p>\n
Vignette \/ Roviniete \u2013
\nA vignette is required for all roads in Romania. We entered Romania via Mako in Hungary crossing at Nagylak where we purchased our vignette in no-man\u2019s land at the border post. We pulled up alongside the booth and the girl saw the type of vehicle we were driving and said we were Class A (under \u2018Type\u2019 the paperwork says A-Autoturisme). She gave us options of \u20ac6 for 1 week or \u20ac9 for 1 month which can only be paid in \u20ac\u2019s or Lei. You are issued with an A4 sheet with your vehicle details and driver details on it, check this carefully especially your registration number as this feeds into the ANPR system used to automatically check all vehicles have a valid vignette. No stickers are issued and the sheet advises you keep it for 1 year after expiry.<\/p>\n
![\"Wild](\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Wild-camping-last-night-Resized-1024x682.jpg\")
<\/a>Wild Camping in Romania<\/p><\/div>\n
Camping \u2013
\nWe struggled to find details of the campsites in Romania, the Tourist Information Offices aren\u2019t too knowledgeable about campsites in their local area and there is no national map or booklet that we could find. We were given a leaflet at one campsite which lists a number of campsites but it is written in Dutch and aimed at that market www.paspoortroemenie.nl<\/strong><\/a>. On their website you can however download an English pdf version.<\/p>\nWe had no trouble finding places to stop and wild-camp each night \u2013 whether it be a car park, layby or beside a river. Our thoughts on what makes a good wild-camping spot might differ to others so I won\u2019t list exactly where we stayed but we didn\u2019t have any problems and in the summer Romanians like to get out and wild camp in the countryside too. We saw very few campervans when we were travelling through in April \u2013 in 16 days we only saw another 2 vans who parked up near us in the car park in Sibiu.<\/p>\n
Shopping \u2013
\nLidl and Penny Market can be found in most towns. A few of the cities have a Carrefour and there are a number of other local supermarkets \u2013 including Penny Market and Billa. There are loads of bread \u2018booths\u2019 where you approach the glass window and point out whatever takes your fancy and there are roadside stalls selling everything from fruit and vegetables to wicker baskets.<\/p>\n
Tourist Information Offices \u2013
\nWe don\u2019t have a set itinerary and are not travelling with loads of guide books. We try and find Tourist Information Offices to pick up maps and useful information on the area and hopefully see if they can supply some little nuggets of information on places they like or recommend locally and hopefully en-route to our next destination. We found some staff to be really helpful and friendly (Sibiu, Cluj Napoca, Predeal, Sighi\u015foara) and others to be the complete opposite (Arad, Bra\u015fov, C\u00e2mpulung Moldovenesc). Very much pot-luck!<\/p>\n
Our trip<\/h3>\nDay 1 \u2013 Arad to Geoagiu Bai (168 miles)<\/h4>\n
Formalities sorted \u2013 passports checked, eyed up by customs officer and vignette purchased we set off in unchartered territory for us, excited and curious about what this country, one of the newest members of the EU, would be like.<\/p>\n
Having spent the last week on the flat plains of Hungary it was good to see some hills in the distance. Within half an hour we had done a text-book emergency stop and this set the tone for the days driving really on the busy E68 route where the road signs warn of \u2018Accident Black spot\u2019 for the next 10km \u2013 every 10km! There are countless garages, truck washing stops, TIR parking places and a fair few \u2018ladies\u2019 offering other services on this route where the road cuts a swathe through towns and villages and the lorries thunder through ignoring the speed limit. We were the only vehicle sticking to the speed limit, bar one German registered car, much to the annoyance of every other driver. Relieved to divert off the road we eventually found a place to pull over for the night in a valley north of Geoagiu Bai, not the best first impression but we remained optimistic and on the positive side the weather was warming up!<\/p>\n
Day 2 \u2013 Geoagiu Bai to Sibiu (68 miles)<\/h4>\n
Back on the busy trucking road we travelled the short distance to Sibiu which has big signs on the approach road warning drivers about illegal parking. We played safe and parked up in the central car park which is within a few meters of the pedestrianised area of the town with the National Theatre on one side, fortified city walls on another and is overlooked by two large hotels. In the corner is a bike-hire enterprise although walking around seemed the best way to soak up the atmosphere and see the sights. Wary of the city approach warning we checked the car park sign to fathom out the rules and regulations but could see no mention of not staying overnight and, despite it being barrier controlled, there is an attendant who seemed to be there 24\/7 (or non-stop as they say in Romania). He helps confused drivers with their tickets \u2013 perhaps this is new technology for them? The cost is 1 Lei per hour so our 19 hour stay cost us about \u00a33.65, it wasn\u2019t peaceful but it was very convenient and we were joined by 2 other campervans later in the day.
\nThe young lad in the Tourist Information Office furnished us with maps, suggestions on what to do in Sibiu, where to go to next and some campsite information; he couldn\u2019t have been more helpful. We walked around the city walls, wandered around the cobbled streets and squares and went up the Council Tower to get a bird\u2019s eye view of the city and the snow-capped mountains in the distance. It was our first taste of the numerous medieval cities in this area of Transylvania and we found it enchanting.<\/p>\n
Day 3 \u2013 Sibiu to Bra\u015fov (115 miles)<\/h4>\n
After another amble around Sibiu and armed with fresh warm simits (sesame coated bread rings) we headed south to the villages recommended by the lad in the TI Office. Driving to Cisnadiora we passed locals in traditional outfits, the men with large black felt hats and dark clothes and the women in colourful tops and skirts\u00a0travelling\u00a0along in loaded up carts pulled by horses with bright red tassels. We also saw shepherds tending their flocks, one in a full length sheepskin coat, another with a jazzy tartan affair \u2013 we were off the beaten track so these\u00a0weren’t\u00a0being worn for the tourists benefit.<\/p>\n
Arriving in the village we were approached by friendly locals curious to find out if we were lost and despite them speaking no English or us any Romanian we managed a conversation with smiles, gesticulations and a little German which came back to me from my school days. Atop a hill was a fortified church where a young guardian and her buddies were clearing the shrubs and handing out proper official entrance fee tickets for 5 Lei (\u00a31). The view was impressive and the church, whilst being in a state of disrepair, housed a number of memorial plaques to those who lost their lives in battles in the Sibiu area during WW1.<\/p>\n
We tried to get back on the E68 to Brasov by taking a \u2018short-cut\u2019 to Avrig but ended up having to back track when the road turned into a muddy track \u2013 the first but not the last of similar route diversions during our 2 weeks here. We passed the turnoff for the C7 road which heads south off the E68 and leads up to the Transf\u0103g\u0103r\u0103\u015fan Highway \u2013 made famous by the Top Gear trio who after \u2018racing\u2019 3 supercars on the road declared it to be \u2018probably the best road in the world\u2019 \u2013 it is however closed between November and June so if you have a real urge to take your campervan up there make sure you get your timings right.<\/p>\n
Arriving at Bra\u015fov in the late afternoon we negotiated the busy traffic and considered our parking options before finding a spot near the fortress walls on Mount Tampa. As night fell the Hollywood style sign on the hill lit up confirming, in case we were in any doubt, that we were in BRA\u015eOV and on the opposite site of the town the citadel walls were also bathed in floodlights.<\/p>\n
Day 4 \u2013 Bra\u015fov to Rupea (99 miles)<\/h4>\n
We indulged ourselves with coffee and cakes costing 22 Lei (\u00a34.23) in the beautiful Mado caf\u00e9 in the town centre – worth visiting just to admire the interior but a great place to access fast internet. Despite having a central position in the main square finding the door to the Tourist Information Office proved difficult and eliciting any useful information almost impossible. We were looking for a campsite in the area but didn\u2019t fancy the Dirste Campsite which sits just outside the city in a busy commercial area. She knew of no others and wasn\u2019t interested in sharing any information with us \u2013 it was hard work even getting a smile out of her!
\nArmed with more simits, they are addictive, we set off in the opposite direction we had planned to go and ended up driving through Predeal, in the Prahova Valley, a popular winter ski base and summer hiking area. Here a more helpful TI lady told us about \u2018Vampire Camping\u2019 in Bran and even phoned them to see if they were open. There was a deathly silence as the number just rang and rang \u2013 was that an omen? Thanking her we carried on our way and found ourselves driving into and out of Bran, stopping to snap the impressive looking castle, built in 1212, set against the wooded mountains but being put off by the sheer volume of stalls selling all manner of vampire related tat. The campsite\u00a0didn’t\u00a0look too inviting either and despite having an overfull toilet cassette we decided against it. We could have carried on south and visited Peles Castle but decided to head back north towards Bra\u015fov. Thankfully at the garage where we filled up with diesel we were able to empty the cassette taking the pressure off having to find a campsite. Having spent most of our time so far on the busy truck route it was great to head off north on the E60 and find the countryside opening up and the road followed pretty river valleys with a few short climbs. We parked up in Rupea where the castle, currently undergoing a massive reconstruction programme, stands out majestically in the with uninterrupted views of the surrounding plains and hills.<\/p>\n
Day 5 \u2013 Rupea – Sighi\u015foara (40 miles)<\/h4>\n
We had a short days\u2019 drive planned today and punctuated it with a visit to pretty Sachiz parking up in the town square from where we picked up a useful leaflet from the Tourist Information Office. The leaflet described the fortified castle high on the hill dating to 1347 and the fortified church dating to 1493. Walking through the back streets and up through the green pastures we soon found ourselves wandering around the ruins, peering down the unguarded 60 meter deep well, cautiously climbing the stone steps to the first floor and gazing down into the wooded valley from the high walls on the far side. A very peaceful and beautiful place.<\/p>\n
Arriving in Sighi\u015foara we parked up on the outskirts and a helpful young lady in the Tourist Information office provided us with a town map and campsite information. I already knew Villa Franka was not yet open for camping but the Aquarius site was so after getting our bearings we walked over the river bridge for a site reccie. The old boy and his wife running the site spoke no English other than \u2018No problem\u2019 which he repeated to every question we asked \u2013 Did he have room for a campervan (we were the only people there) \u2013 \u201cNo problem\u201d, Did they have Wi-fi \u2013 \u201cNo problem\u201d, Did they have laundry facilities – \u201cNo problem\u201d (they didn\u2019t but I think he was volunteering his poor wife to wash our smalls!). It didn\u2019t really matter \u2013 we needed a campsite and for 40 Lei (\u00a37.70) it was a great stop-over. For the second time since leaving the UK the chairs, table and awning came out of the locker and we lunched al-fresco in the warm sun.
\nAfter a very long lunch we ambled across the bridge and up into the charming inhabited medieval citadel perched on the hillside. We walked around the streets for hours before returning to the van armed with yet more simits!<\/p>\n
Day 6 \u2013 Sighi\u015foara \u2013 Lacu Izvoru Muntelui (137 miles)<\/h4>\n
The road north from Sighi\u015foara through Targu Mures and Reghin was quite bad with endless road works and hawking from wicker basket sellers at every temporary road stop. Heading towards Toplita the scenery changed again as did the housing styles and we were greeted by cheery waves as we drove past. It was a long day with not many miles covered by the time we settled down in a layby overlooking Lacu Izvoru Muntelui (Bicaz Lake) but we had driven through some beautiful countryside.<\/p>\n
Day 7 \u2013 Around Bicaz area (80 miles)<\/h4>\n
We kept our eyes peeled for signs of a Tourist Information office as we continued on the road following the lake contours and crossing the huge dam at the end of the reservoir. We parked up in the small town of Bicaz and asked in the Post Office \u2013 they pointed us in the direction of the museum which was closed but we spotted a Tourist Information sign on a library wall. I approached a lady on her hands and knees spring cleaning, asking her if she spoke English. The Romanian response I got back obviously meant \u2018no\u2019 as well as a plea to get off her lovely clean carpet. Another lady who spoke a smattering of German told us the library was actually closed but she helpfully managed to find a bundle of maps and the cash tin from a pile in the corner and 3 Lei (58p) lighter we left the building and the door was locked behind us! The map was really useful with walking trails on one side and a large scale area map on the other.<\/p>\n
We headed out to Bicaz Gorge which is short in length but impressively high sided. Parking is difficult as the souvenir sellers have commandeered the best spots meaning visitors have to find a place to park up then walk back. If there is no-where to park just enjoy it on your way through to Lacu Rosu (Red Lake) which, contradicting its name, is actually almost jade green and had melting ice cover when we visited. The story goes that the lake was formed when a landslide blocked the river killing some people in the vicinity \u2013 all that remains of a submerged forest now is the tree stumps popping out of the water.<\/p>\n
![\"Fundu](\"https:\/\/ourtourmedia.s3.eu-central-003.backblazeb2.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/05\/Hill-walk-Fundu-Moldovei-Resized.jpg\")
<\/a>Fundu Moldovei – Romania<\/p><\/div>\n
The country \u2013
\nRomania is a BIG country \u2013 our AA Road Atlas of Europe deceptively changed scale for Romania going up to 1:3000000 having been 1:800000 for the other countries we had driven through. Our Sat Nav gave up completely and we were floating in space for hours on the first day after which it was resigned to the glove-box for the remainder of our 2 week trip. The Tourist Information Office we first pulled in at in Arad couldn\u2019t provide a country map so we bought one in a bookshop in Arad costing \u00a33 \u2013 Huber-Niculescu Romania Tourist & Road Map 1:600000. The quality wasn\u2019t great but the detail was good.<\/p>\n
Currency \/ money \u2013
\nVery colourful notes, hardwearing with an odd plastic feel to them. We are using an FX pre-pay Mastercard and this was accepted at all ATM\u2019s and supermarkets and most garages.<\/p>\n
Roads \u2013
\nThere is a huge road building programme going on in some parts of the country. In other parts there are road signs saying there are road improvements going on but nothing is happening and in many areas there are no signs of any work and the roads are just dreadful. To see the best of Romania you need to be prepared to travel on the potholed, gravel roads at slow speeds and have a van capable and happy doing that. Some roads start off great then turn to dust, others just start that way.<\/p>\n
Standard of driving \u2013
\nWhen we lived in Turkey for 6 years we became accustomed to the driving style of the Turks and to some extent the Romanians are very similar. Only that was in the 80\u2019s and most cars and trucks didn\u2019t go that fast then. Nowadays the trucks are going fast and the cars faster still and most Romanian drivers seem to be short on patience and oblivious to approaching hazards. Roads are shared by fast cars, heavy lorries, pedestrians, tractors and even horse and carts. There are few lay-by\u2019s on the main roads to pull into. Everyone drives while on the mobile phone and reversing seems to be a bit of a mystery!<\/p>\n
Getting fuel \/ LPG \u2013
\nAll the big towns have a range of different garages, a lot having LPG. The prices vary quite considerably \u2013 the most we paid for diesel (April 2013) was 5.74 Lei per litre (\u00a31.10); the least was 5.55 Lei (\u00a31.07). Out in the country it can go above 6 Lei per litre. LPG was reasonably priced. Watch out for weekend discounts on prices \u2013 normally only on the more expensive diesel but we found a garage offering discounts on all fuels. The AA Touring Tips guide to Romania says that you are taxed on petrol and diesel in the vehicle tank when leaving Romania so we kept some money back for this but were waved through the border post at Naida\u015f without any mention of paying a tax.<\/p>\n
Vignette \/ Roviniete \u2013
\nA vignette is required for all roads in Romania. We entered Romania via Mako in Hungary crossing at Nagylak where we purchased our vignette in no-man\u2019s land at the border post. We pulled up alongside the booth and the girl saw the type of vehicle we were driving and said we were Class A (under \u2018Type\u2019 the paperwork says A-Autoturisme). She gave us options of \u20ac6 for 1 week or \u20ac9 for 1 month which can only be paid in \u20ac\u2019s or Lei. You are issued with an A4 sheet with your vehicle details and driver details on it, check this carefully especially your registration number as this feeds into the ANPR system used to automatically check all vehicles have a valid vignette. No stickers are issued and the sheet advises you keep it for 1 year after expiry.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Wild Camping in Romania<\/p><\/div>\n
Camping \u2013 We had no trouble finding places to stop and wild-camp each night \u2013 whether it be a car park, layby or beside a river. Our thoughts on what makes a good wild-camping spot might differ to others so I won\u2019t list exactly where we stayed but we didn\u2019t have any problems and in the summer Romanians like to get out and wild camp in the countryside too. We saw very few campervans when we were travelling through in April \u2013 in 16 days we only saw another 2 vans who parked up near us in the car park in Sibiu.<\/p>\n Shopping \u2013 Tourist Information Offices \u2013 Formalities sorted \u2013 passports checked, eyed up by customs officer and vignette purchased we set off in unchartered territory for us, excited and curious about what this country, one of the newest members of the EU, would be like.<\/p>\n Having spent the last week on the flat plains of Hungary it was good to see some hills in the distance. Within half an hour we had done a text-book emergency stop and this set the tone for the days driving really on the busy E68 route where the road signs warn of \u2018Accident Black spot\u2019 for the next 10km \u2013 every 10km! There are countless garages, truck washing stops, TIR parking places and a fair few \u2018ladies\u2019 offering other services on this route where the road cuts a swathe through towns and villages and the lorries thunder through ignoring the speed limit. We were the only vehicle sticking to the speed limit, bar one German registered car, much to the annoyance of every other driver. Relieved to divert off the road we eventually found a place to pull over for the night in a valley north of Geoagiu Bai, not the best first impression but we remained optimistic and on the positive side the weather was warming up!<\/p>\n Back on the busy trucking road we travelled the short distance to Sibiu which has big signs on the approach road warning drivers about illegal parking. We played safe and parked up in the central car park which is within a few meters of the pedestrianised area of the town with the National Theatre on one side, fortified city walls on another and is overlooked by two large hotels. In the corner is a bike-hire enterprise although walking around seemed the best way to soak up the atmosphere and see the sights. Wary of the city approach warning we checked the car park sign to fathom out the rules and regulations but could see no mention of not staying overnight and, despite it being barrier controlled, there is an attendant who seemed to be there 24\/7 (or non-stop as they say in Romania). He helps confused drivers with their tickets \u2013 perhaps this is new technology for them? The cost is 1 Lei per hour so our 19 hour stay cost us about \u00a33.65, it wasn\u2019t peaceful but it was very convenient and we were joined by 2 other campervans later in the day. After another amble around Sibiu and armed with fresh warm simits (sesame coated bread rings) we headed south to the villages recommended by the lad in the TI Office. Driving to Cisnadiora we passed locals in traditional outfits, the men with large black felt hats and dark clothes and the women in colourful tops and skirts\u00a0travelling\u00a0along in loaded up carts pulled by horses with bright red tassels. We also saw shepherds tending their flocks, one in a full length sheepskin coat, another with a jazzy tartan affair \u2013 we were off the beaten track so these\u00a0weren’t\u00a0being worn for the tourists benefit.<\/p>\n Arriving in the village we were approached by friendly locals curious to find out if we were lost and despite them speaking no English or us any Romanian we managed a conversation with smiles, gesticulations and a little German which came back to me from my school days. Atop a hill was a fortified church where a young guardian and her buddies were clearing the shrubs and handing out proper official entrance fee tickets for 5 Lei (\u00a31). The view was impressive and the church, whilst being in a state of disrepair, housed a number of memorial plaques to those who lost their lives in battles in the Sibiu area during WW1.<\/p>\n We tried to get back on the E68 to Brasov by taking a \u2018short-cut\u2019 to Avrig but ended up having to back track when the road turned into a muddy track \u2013 the first but not the last of similar route diversions during our 2 weeks here. We passed the turnoff for the C7 road which heads south off the E68 and leads up to the Transf\u0103g\u0103r\u0103\u015fan Highway \u2013 made famous by the Top Gear trio who after \u2018racing\u2019 3 supercars on the road declared it to be \u2018probably the best road in the world\u2019 \u2013 it is however closed between November and June so if you have a real urge to take your campervan up there make sure you get your timings right.<\/p>\n Arriving at Bra\u015fov in the late afternoon we negotiated the busy traffic and considered our parking options before finding a spot near the fortress walls on Mount Tampa. As night fell the Hollywood style sign on the hill lit up confirming, in case we were in any doubt, that we were in BRA\u015eOV and on the opposite site of the town the citadel walls were also bathed in floodlights.<\/p>\n We indulged ourselves with coffee and cakes costing 22 Lei (\u00a34.23) in the beautiful Mado caf\u00e9 in the town centre – worth visiting just to admire the interior but a great place to access fast internet. Despite having a central position in the main square finding the door to the Tourist Information Office proved difficult and eliciting any useful information almost impossible. We were looking for a campsite in the area but didn\u2019t fancy the Dirste Campsite which sits just outside the city in a busy commercial area. She knew of no others and wasn\u2019t interested in sharing any information with us \u2013 it was hard work even getting a smile out of her! We had a short days\u2019 drive planned today and punctuated it with a visit to pretty Sachiz parking up in the town square from where we picked up a useful leaflet from the Tourist Information Office. The leaflet described the fortified castle high on the hill dating to 1347 and the fortified church dating to 1493. Walking through the back streets and up through the green pastures we soon found ourselves wandering around the ruins, peering down the unguarded 60 meter deep well, cautiously climbing the stone steps to the first floor and gazing down into the wooded valley from the high walls on the far side. A very peaceful and beautiful place.<\/p>\n Arriving in Sighi\u015foara we parked up on the outskirts and a helpful young lady in the Tourist Information office provided us with a town map and campsite information. I already knew Villa Franka was not yet open for camping but the Aquarius site was so after getting our bearings we walked over the river bridge for a site reccie. The old boy and his wife running the site spoke no English other than \u2018No problem\u2019 which he repeated to every question we asked \u2013 Did he have room for a campervan (we were the only people there) \u2013 \u201cNo problem\u201d, Did they have Wi-fi \u2013 \u201cNo problem\u201d, Did they have laundry facilities – \u201cNo problem\u201d (they didn\u2019t but I think he was volunteering his poor wife to wash our smalls!). It didn\u2019t really matter \u2013 we needed a campsite and for 40 Lei (\u00a37.70) it was a great stop-over. For the second time since leaving the UK the chairs, table and awning came out of the locker and we lunched al-fresco in the warm sun. The road north from Sighi\u015foara through Targu Mures and Reghin was quite bad with endless road works and hawking from wicker basket sellers at every temporary road stop. Heading towards Toplita the scenery changed again as did the housing styles and we were greeted by cheery waves as we drove past. It was a long day with not many miles covered by the time we settled down in a layby overlooking Lacu Izvoru Muntelui (Bicaz Lake) but we had driven through some beautiful countryside.<\/p>\n We kept our eyes peeled for signs of a Tourist Information office as we continued on the road following the lake contours and crossing the huge dam at the end of the reservoir. We parked up in the small town of Bicaz and asked in the Post Office \u2013 they pointed us in the direction of the museum which was closed but we spotted a Tourist Information sign on a library wall. I approached a lady on her hands and knees spring cleaning, asking her if she spoke English. The Romanian response I got back obviously meant \u2018no\u2019 as well as a plea to get off her lovely clean carpet. Another lady who spoke a smattering of German told us the library was actually closed but she helpfully managed to find a bundle of maps and the cash tin from a pile in the corner and 3 Lei (58p) lighter we left the building and the door was locked behind us! The map was really useful with walking trails on one side and a large scale area map on the other.<\/p>\n We headed out to Bicaz Gorge which is short in length but impressively high sided. Parking is difficult as the souvenir sellers have commandeered the best spots meaning visitors have to find a place to park up then walk back. If there is no-where to park just enjoy it on your way through to Lacu Rosu (Red Lake) which, contradicting its name, is actually almost jade green and had melting ice cover when we visited. The story goes that the lake was formed when a landslide blocked the river killing some people in the vicinity \u2013 all that remains of a submerged forest now is the tree stumps popping out of the water.<\/p>\n
\nWe struggled to find details of the campsites in Romania, the Tourist Information Offices aren\u2019t too knowledgeable about campsites in their local area and there is no national map or booklet that we could find. We were given a leaflet at one campsite which lists a number of campsites but it is written in Dutch and aimed at that market www.paspoortroemenie.nl<\/strong><\/a>. On their website you can however download an English pdf version.<\/p>\n
\nLidl and Penny Market can be found in most towns. A few of the cities have a Carrefour and there are a number of other local supermarkets \u2013 including Penny Market and Billa. There are loads of bread \u2018booths\u2019 where you approach the glass window and point out whatever takes your fancy and there are roadside stalls selling everything from fruit and vegetables to wicker baskets.<\/p>\n
\nWe don\u2019t have a set itinerary and are not travelling with loads of guide books. We try and find Tourist Information Offices to pick up maps and useful information on the area and hopefully see if they can supply some little nuggets of information on places they like or recommend locally and hopefully en-route to our next destination. We found some staff to be really helpful and friendly (Sibiu, Cluj Napoca, Predeal, Sighi\u015foara) and others to be the complete opposite (Arad, Bra\u015fov, C\u00e2mpulung Moldovenesc). Very much pot-luck!<\/p>\nOur trip<\/h3>\n
Day 1 \u2013 Arad to Geoagiu Bai (168 miles)<\/h4>\n
Day 2 \u2013 Geoagiu Bai to Sibiu (68 miles)<\/h4>\n
\nThe young lad in the Tourist Information Office furnished us with maps, suggestions on what to do in Sibiu, where to go to next and some campsite information; he couldn\u2019t have been more helpful. We walked around the city walls, wandered around the cobbled streets and squares and went up the Council Tower to get a bird\u2019s eye view of the city and the snow-capped mountains in the distance. It was our first taste of the numerous medieval cities in this area of Transylvania and we found it enchanting.<\/p>\nDay 3 \u2013 Sibiu to Bra\u015fov (115 miles)<\/h4>\n
Day 4 \u2013 Bra\u015fov to Rupea (99 miles)<\/h4>\n
\nArmed with more simits, they are addictive, we set off in the opposite direction we had planned to go and ended up driving through Predeal, in the Prahova Valley, a popular winter ski base and summer hiking area. Here a more helpful TI lady told us about \u2018Vampire Camping\u2019 in Bran and even phoned them to see if they were open. There was a deathly silence as the number just rang and rang \u2013 was that an omen? Thanking her we carried on our way and found ourselves driving into and out of Bran, stopping to snap the impressive looking castle, built in 1212, set against the wooded mountains but being put off by the sheer volume of stalls selling all manner of vampire related tat. The campsite\u00a0didn’t\u00a0look too inviting either and despite having an overfull toilet cassette we decided against it. We could have carried on south and visited Peles Castle but decided to head back north towards Bra\u015fov. Thankfully at the garage where we filled up with diesel we were able to empty the cassette taking the pressure off having to find a campsite. Having spent most of our time so far on the busy truck route it was great to head off north on the E60 and find the countryside opening up and the road followed pretty river valleys with a few short climbs. We parked up in Rupea where the castle, currently undergoing a massive reconstruction programme, stands out majestically in the with uninterrupted views of the surrounding plains and hills.<\/p>\nDay 5 \u2013 Rupea – Sighi\u015foara (40 miles)<\/h4>\n
\nAfter a very long lunch we ambled across the bridge and up into the charming inhabited medieval citadel perched on the hillside. We walked around the streets for hours before returning to the van armed with yet more simits!<\/p>\nDay 6 \u2013 Sighi\u015foara \u2013 Lacu Izvoru Muntelui (137 miles)<\/h4>\n
Day 7 \u2013 Around Bicaz area (80 miles)<\/h4>\n