{"id":10211,"date":"2013-04-28T17:12:38","date_gmt":"2013-04-28T16:12:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/?p=10211"},"modified":"2018-12-18T15:32:08","modified_gmt":"2018-12-18T15:32:08","slug":"asleep-in-pirate-bay-mezapos-m%ce%b5%ce%b6%ce%b1%cf%80%ce%bf%cf%82","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ourtour.co.uk\/home\/asleep-in-pirate-bay-mezapos-m%ce%b5%ce%b6%ce%b1%cf%80%ce%bf%cf%82\/","title":{"rendered":"Asleep in Pirate Bay, Mezapos (M\u03b5\u03b6\u03b1\u03c0\u03bf\u03c2)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dave the motorhome is on his chocks on a sloping car park made up of Maniot rock, grey and white, streaked with red, like rust, each chunk of it bearing the marks of the chisel where some tough fella’s hacked it flat. The wall behind’s made of the same stuff, as is the church in front. In fact, much of everything is made of it here, new build homes have a hole hacked next to them in the ground and lumps of it fetched out to be carved and slotted in place. Having said that, the new builds all seem to be concrete and brick frames, the Maniot stone masons reduced to master cladding fixers. We’re at Mezapos, in the Deep Mani (N36.54220 E22.39079).<\/p>\n

\"DSC02558<\/a><\/p>\n

Yesterday was a serious bug day for us. They just kept coming! Just before we headed out to watch the sunset, I leaned out of Dave, stepped on the step, and just about had a heart attack. After taking the mick relentlessly from Ju when she leapt in fear from a tiny field mouse, I did the same when I saw this:<\/p>\n

\"DSC02459\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The photo makes him (I’m pretty sure it’s a male) look massive, but it was about the size of the end of your thumb, although it added to it’s fearsome appearance with weird skittish leaps of a few cm at a time. I encouraged him away from Dave with a stick, cue much leaping, then looked him up. He’s a\u00a0Philaeus Chrysops<\/strong><\/a>, I think, and is harmless. Once he was dispensed with, the varmit, nature treated us to this:<\/p>\n

\"DSC02485\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This morning we popped a bit of rubbish into the bins, poking a finger into the huge bullet holes in the thick metal dumpsters (some made it through the other side, others left deep indents) and wondering why folks need that kind of weaponry around here? A young German couple had arrived yesterday afternoon, on a six month trip through Italy, Greece, Turkey and back up roughly the same route we plan. We waved them goodbye, popped Dave in first and huffed an puffed him back up the hill and onto the plain above.<\/p>\n

‘There’s no water on the Mani’. Not sure who told us this, but the words echoed in our heads as we were out of drinking water, and our washing tank was down to a quarter full. The heat and dryness had us in hunt the tap mode, usually an easy game as it seems when running water finally made it here the parched locals went bonkers installing taps everywhere. You guessed it though, we couldn’t find one which worked. Eventually we cheekily used one outside someone’s house, grabbing a few litres before speeding (hah!) off in Dave.<\/p>\n

Mezapos was the next stop we knew of one the way south, only a few more miles through the countryside, which is gradually turning to scrub, the olive trees are tiny things compared with those further north. The advice from other motorhome folks is often\u00a0indispensable, ‘you can make it through the village, it’s a bit narrow at times, but there’s a car park at the end where you can stay and turn’. On the entrance to the town I kept thinking of these words, as frankly I was in need of a brown paper bag and deep breathing exercises!<\/p>\n

\"DSC02507\"<\/a>

Mezapos – the wide bit :).<\/p><\/div>\n

\"DSC02509\"<\/a>

Turned out to be OK. I reversed back for this chap to pass, in return he insisted we get a good photo of him and his massive stash of artichokes!<\/p><\/div>\n

\"We<\/a>

We saw the Port Parking sign and thought ‘no way are we fitting down there’. A chap appeared and silently pointed down the same way as the sign. Ah well, in for a penny, in for a pound. Again it was fine, I must man up.<\/p><\/div>\n

Maybe we were a bit too relieved when we parked up, as we missed the rear wall by a finger’s width!<\/p>\n

\"Literally<\/a>

Literally a finger’s width and we’d probably have wrecked the bumper. The walls here don’t have much give in ’em.<\/p><\/div>\n

Mezapos was once pretty much isolated, the road was only built last century, before that you either got a boat here or, I guess, took the donkey express. That made it a good spot for pirates, hence the name Pirate Bay. Sticking out into said bay is a huge frying-pan shaped lump, stuck to the mainland by its handle of rock,\u00a0aptly\u00a0called the Frying Pan and home to the remains of various castle built over the ages. On the other side, the limestone is like Aero, the most inaccessible holes were called\u00a0thyrides, the same name used for safety deposit boxes, and were used by the pirates to stash their treasure. Apparently, we’ve not been over there as it’s miles away and Mezapos is a place for lolling and kipping these days.<\/p>\n

\"DSC02546<\/a>

We did make it out for a quick walk, and I’ve swum around the bay, but apart from that it’s a place for lolling and kipping.<\/p><\/div>\n

There’s not much here, a ramshackle collection of new-build faux tower houses, ancient-looking white rendered homes and tumble-down stone houses. The taverna owner from just up the road came to say hello, telling us we were fine to sleep here, no problem. We’ll repay him with a meal tonight. ‘What time?’ he asked us. ‘9, tonight’ we replied. Maybe we’re turning Greek already, we’d usually go for 7 or 8. A couple of fishing boats have turned up, relatively big things for around here with 3 man crews. I manned up a bit and went to see if I could buy a fish, following a local chap down to the boat. I stood alongside him, ignored, as he shouted back and forth to the fishermen. One stopped fixing nets, disappeared and came back clutching a huge Conger Eel, throwing it’s lifeless but still vicious form onto the quayside. I unmanned up and walked off. Later a small refrigerated van turned up and took the rest of the catch.<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our taverna for this evening. There is a barrel outside with Retsina written on it, a kind of wine. It seems to have a tap. I’m desperate to see if it actually has wine in it!<\/p><\/div>\n

For some reason the mobile phone network here is pants, but we managed a flawless Skype call with Ju’s fab half of the family (as opposed to my fab half of the family!). It’s a jarring thing to speak to these guys, they’re ploughing on with their lives, running a business, taking exams, locking horns with UK red tape, planning holidays. We miss them. We don’t miss the stress though, which we’ve sort of cheated for a while, side-stepping it and landing here. They asked if we’re seeing much strife, Greece being on the news agenda again for strikes and the like as the (allegedly) bloated public service continues to be cut in swathes. We’ve seen the odd unregistered car lying about (there are two in this car park, mothballed) and building projects which have stopped dead. That’s about it though – no sense of anything but welcome to us and building does continue around us. Maybe we’ll see more issues in Athens or the other big cities, but there’s little sign of big impact here in this remote little corner of Europe.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A few folks keep asking if we’re really going back in September. ‘Fraid so! We love this lifestyle and want to continue it for ever, but on the other hand we want to spend time with family and friends, plus we’ll soon be more skint than Steptoe.<\/p><\/div>\n

Cheers, Jay<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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