Viljandi in the Sun, Estonia

Zagan the motorhome’s getting in the way. We’ve stood on the shoulders of giants, again, nabbin’ Glen and Steve’s freecamping spot by the small lake port in Viljandi (N58.35911, E25.60298). Only thing is, the sun’s knocked on the doors of the boat owners, and they’re all here bailing out, swapping batteries, swearing at stubborn outboards and hooning about. We’re a bit in the way, but no-one seems much bothered and it’s such a beautiful spot we’re loathe to leave.

Zagan in Viljandi, Estonia

Last night Zagan came under sustained attack. Mosquitoes buzzed past the windows and in the space above us, held back nicely by the built-in mozzie net. Feeling a little smug, we watched them for a bit before shooing them off and closing the skylight, suddenly nervous they might find a way in. They’re big, slow swines around here. I like to think I’m a ‘live and let live’ type of geezer. Unless you’re a mosquito, in which case I’m more of a violent mass murderer type. Estonia will be a few mosquitoes lighter by the time we’re done here.

The bar at yesterday’s camp

The whole place was a wonderful mix of old and new. The loos were rough-cut wood with hand-made ironwork but the fittings inside would look at home in a modern en-suite

Mozzies aside, this country’s proving a hit. Why? Why would it be favoured over its Baltic brothers? Dunno to be honest. It just feels better for us motorhome-based wanderers. Free camping seems abundant. No-one seems to spend much attention on us, regardless of how in-the-fray we are. The roads haven’t been ripped up. The politeness of people feels touching. The towns feel clean, tidy and more affluent than their southern neighbours. Since we’ve been here just a handful of days, it’s a bit early to declare Estonia a favourite, but so far so good.

Not seen a single moose yet. Who do I sue?

As we were filled up with water by the helpful lass at last night’s stop, Ju reminded me to fill the bone-dry washer bottle. As I did, I noticed the coolant level’s dropped below the minimum, and looking down spotted the pink stuff again bleeding from a small hole in the radiator. Radweld is required. Thankfully our garage back home fixed the temperature gauge so we know we’re not getting above normal temperature yet, but a solution’s needed to keep us going for the next few months.

Our first free-camp spot in Viljandi (N53.35911, E25.60298) before we shifted 650m down the lake to here

I’m grateful that’s my job, as Ju’s taken on a far nastier thing: getting the van insurance sorted. Buying cover which allows you to spend more than 9 months on the road, and which also covers Morocco, isn’t easy. At least not for a reasonable price. Ju’s on the case though, and we’ve still got a couple of weeks to get a policy sorted out.

As noted above, today we’re in Viljandi, which is a small town in Southern Estonia, with a rather fetching lake and a ruined castle which once stood strong across three hills. The lake, by the way, is taunting us. There’s a 13km running track around it which is used once a year for an international race. It looks flat. The countryside looks lovely. The weather is warm but not too hot. The van’s about as safe as it gets with all these locals about. We need to go and run round the lake. But I have beer in the fridge. Run? or Beer? Sigh…

For about a third of the year lakes here are frozen

This chap won the 13km Viljandi lake race 10 years running, earning him this rather fetching statue

And his name etched on ten of these stones

Anyway, the town’s quiet here, only a single tourist bus (or buss in Estonian – I’m getting the hang of the language see). There are signs in English knocking about at most spots explaining interesting stuff – like the fact the castle was excavated by the local schoolteacher, who wasn’t an archaeology expert, and the fact the well-loved major was sent to Siberia, where he only lasted a year. The wars washing back and forth over this region flattened many of the buildings here, left wide open green spaces right across the town. A small consolation for the mayhem perhaps, but it really adds to the feel of the place.

Viljandi’s town mayor in the 1930’s before being shipped to the far reaches of neighbouring Russia

Lots of Estonian flags are flying here – this chap was just popping his up

Most of the town’s in good nick. There is a bit of development opportunity here though still…

This was one off the first Estonian towns with water. The tower’s since been changed to a viewing platform – €2 a pop

Pre-war buildings stood in squares like this

Our guidebook noted that restaurants in Estonia charge roughly Western prices, which put me right off going to any restaurants in Estonia. This was the wrong response. The response should have been to be put off reading the damned guidebook. The food’s cheap – starters €2 to €3, mains €4 to €9. We ate fish and loved it. Charlie was given water. We even managed a ta-nan or two (thankyou). A few more photos below before I crack open that beer, ah, erm, go for a run.

Door of the Day in Viljandi

Viljandi’s suspension bridge to the castle remains – rebuilt 3 times

One of the Viljandi castle moats

Official flags are at half mast or have black ribbons tied to them. We don’t know why, but the news is full of a maniac shooting 50 people in the US, so could be a showing of solidarity.

A very modern and clean theatre in Viljandi

No hedgehogs? Seems reasonable, those blighters will wreck a restaurant in minutes

An idea of restaurant prices in Estonia (in Euros)

A happy Team Zagan and the lake we need to run around!

Nippers painting Lake Viljandi

Blimey, their dog’s not messing about!

Estonian bikers, reminded us of the Hairy Bikers episode filmed here

Butter would not melt? He’s just spent the past 15 minutes whining for titbits…

And finally, a naked royal sporting an Estonian tie? Presumably some sort of Emperor’s New Clothes reference?

Cheers, Jay