The Painted Rocks near Tafraoute, Morocco

Zagan the motorhome is in the middle of nowhere. He’s parked next to a prickly Argan tree, surrounded by orange rocky outcrops and the Anti Atlas Mountains. Tonight we are spending the night free camping by the painted rocks near Tafraoute (N29.664898, W8.972959).

After a quick check of the weather forecast, we decided to move on this morning. This gave me the pressure I needed to finally buy some shoes. Finding a smiling Samil at his stall just after 9am, I sat down. Within 15 minutes, using broken French and sign language, I left with two pairs of babouches and one pair of sandals, all for £20, and Samil returned to making more shoes to refill his shelves. My worn out trainers and sandals were left beside the bin as we left town, in Morocco you don’t throw your old clothing or footwear away – someone will use them.

Soon Zagan was following in my bike tyre tracks from yesterday, as we drove along the piste road to a view point overlooking the valley with the painted rocks in.

Why are there painted rocks in the middle of nowhere in Morocco? It’s all in the name of art. In 1984 Belgian artist Jean Veran was helped by local firemen to spray over 18 tonnes of paint onto the orange rock canvas that is the Anti Atlas Mountains.

The sun has now washed out the colours on the rocks to a shadow of their former selves, but I think their faded air suits Morocco.

You can drive right down to them on the piste road, as several other vans have, but we’ve opted to stay at the top so we could easily watch the sun set over them.

There are five areas of painted rocks in the valley,and one on the top area where we are parked. Huge swathes of rock have been painted in some places, but my favourite bits are where there are just a few rocks covered, as they really stand out from the landscape.

Sadly the rocks have become victims to graffiti, mainly tagging and saying who loves who. However some graffiti artists do have a sense of humour added to the scene.

The landscape is amazing on its own. The huge orange stones look as if they have been moulded in clay by giant hands. Some sculpted where they stand, others left to roll down the mountainsides.

The area may be mainly dust and rock, but there is still quite a bit of wildlife here. I saw several lizards flicker into hiding along with beautiful hardy flowers and mohican adorned birds.

This evening we got to watch a desert sunset. Sitting on a boulder we gazed out as the landscape around us glowed orange in the last rays of the sun.

With clear skies forecast, a sliver of a moon and no houses for miles we’ll be out star gazing later. Bring it on.

Ju x